The old American West was a time, and a culture, in itself. A tumultuos time where your next dinner depended on your hunting abilities, and natives were in tense relationship with the cowboys and pioneers invading their lands. Today the world is small. We are interconnected with technology and an unknown land is no where to be found. There is no new frontier to conquer, as far as morals and top-side land is concerned, so it can be difficult for us to understand what this time was like. Luckily that time was documented well by the artwork of Frederic Remington, famous sculptor, painter and writer who was passionate about capturing the life of this time.
Remington's "Coming through the Rye" bronze, no. 15. 1902. Ogdensburg, NY May 27, 2011
The Remington Museum sits in Ogdensburg, NY. A small city, port to Ontario, it happily claims itself to be the home of Frederic Remington. His career began as an illustrator for Harpers, and as he became notorious for his work many sought him out to freeze these moments in time forever. As time went by he desired a more artistic venue, and he began painting and sculpting some of the most famous works portraying the American West.
The detail of one of Remington's bronze scupltures. May 27, 2011
His attention to detail is exquisite, especially notable in his bronze sculptures that would have delicate bridles and ropes adorning the sculpture. Every sculpture of Remington is dynamic, capturing a moment in time that was in action or full of emotion. My favorite painting (top) has to be “The End of the Day”. The blue color used for the snow really does capture how cold it was outside as the logger returned home for the evening. My favorite sculpture of his would be “Mountain Man”, an image of a man riding his horse down a steep grade.
Remington's "The Mountain Man" Cast No. 54 July 1903. Remington Art Museum Ogdensburg, NY May 27, 2011
Along with displays of originals of his work, and some artwork by other artists that Remington had collected, the house itself is remarkable. The Parish Mansion, home of the Remington museum, was built in 1809. Recently renovated, Remington’s wife, Eva, moved into the home in 1915. When she passed away she left her late husband’s art and collections in a will to form the museum.
Frederic Remington's "The Last March" 1906 oil on canvas. The Remington Art Museum in Ogdensburg, NY May 27, 2011
While Remington’s finished works are the main attraction of the museum, I have always found the sketches and unfinished works to be more interesting. It shows the raw image that the artist had in his mind and often conveys a more dramatic idea of what he wanted to attain in the finished work.
Remington's unfinished painting, "Ghost Stories".
While the museum was beautiful, it was time for me to make like the Wild West and countinue my wagon trail northward. Tonight I headed into Ontario, Canada to visit some friends and, of course, a cave. In a way a Jeep is the modern covered wagon, the adventurous way to go anywhere and pioneer forwards.
I’ll see you at the end of my next trail.
-Nicole
Stairs in the Parish Mansion, home of the Frederic Remington Art Museum in Ogdensburg, NY. May 27, 2011
Hummingbirds are amazing creatures that have captivated us for years. The feeders that are sold so that we can view these tiny birds up close are varietal and numerous, a staple for many homes within their habitat. The Ruby-throated hummingbird is one that most of North America is at least familiar with. The birds normally beat their wings around 65 times per second but can reach up to 200 beats per second. Their heart rate, and metabolism, are equally as impressive. They are incredibly fast yet they can be moving so fast and still in the air at the same time.
Hummingbird in St. Lawrence County, New York May 26, 2011
This quality makes the hummingbird unique, and a life lesson for all of us. The hummingbird can be both focused and expeditious at the same time, and still able to flit from place to place at speeds of over 30 mph when needed. These small birds captivated me as I sat on my relative’s porch in the country, watching them interact with each other around the nectar provided.
Hummingbird feeding in St. Lawrence County, NY May 26, 2011
Spending a day in the country was exactly what I needed. I had been running around to so many places, accomplishing so many goals, that I honestly felt like a hummingbird. I was exhausted and I needed to revitalize myself for some further exploration. In hummingbird lingo, I really needed to enter torpor. My relatives’ home (who cooks the best salmon dishes I’ve had to date) was far from the reaches of my cell reception and distractions, the perfect haven after being on the go for over 2 weeks.
St. Lawrence County, New York State. Goats, Horses, Cattle and more.The horses running in a field in St. Lawrence County, New York
The countryside of St. Lawrence county rolls with green hills, dairy farms dotting the landscape. In the fields adjoining their property were horses, goats, cattle, geese and other domestic animals, as well as an abundance of wild animals including many beautifully-colored birds. Granite outcrops adorned the fields looking like round, gray elephants laying down for a nap. It was a beautiful view to take in.
A bright yellow bird (I forgot the name, help?) in St. Lawrence County, New York. May 26, 2011
I spent a long time sitting on the porches at the different bird feeders, mostly the hummingbird feeders, observing them interact with another. One hummingbird would lay claim to a feeder, and when it finished feeding it would find a good branch with a view of it’s feeder and watch to fend off the feeder from others of his kind that dared to take a drink. The hummingbird was never allowed to take an eye off it’s feeder, for every few minutes another would approach and they would zip through the air quarreling over nectar rights.
Ruby-throated Hummingbird in rural New York (St. Lawrence County) May 26, 2011
I couldn’t help but think to myself how amazing the hummingbirds were, to be able to move their wings so fast and stand still. It reminded me of myself as I watched them flit from place to place, each stop but a rapid action in space. I have many interests, and I try hard to be successful at everything I do. This means my attention is often divided, and I have to flit from place to place like the humming bird. This doesn’t mean I don’t accomplish much: I actually accomplish a lot. Even with all this movement I still have one main focus in life, my nectar that I feel compelled to place at the top in hierarchy.
A hummingbird drinking nectar in NY. May 26, 2011 (I had to turn the shutter speed way up to capture the wings...so it is dark. Any tips for a Nikon DSLR are appreciated.)
Life is a journey like that of the hummingbird’s flight. We move from place to place, working hard to achieve what we want, but still having that one feeder to claim as our niche in life. Even if we change feeders at one point in life, even several points, we always have that one thing that keeps us driven to do everything else that we require of ourselves. Make sure you accomplish this like the hummingbird: every second counts when life is so short (but not to forget that torpor is a necessity for life to go on…our metabolism can only go so long).
-Nicole
The goats playing in St. Lawrence County, New York May 26, 2011Close-up of a goat in St. Lawrence County, New York May 26, 2011A close-up of one of the Belgian horses in St. Lawrence County, New York May 26, 2011Ruby-throated Hummingbird feeding in St. Lawrence County, NY. May 26, 2011
Even when thousands of miles away, you can feel as if you are only a few miles away from home. During this trip I have found myself in unfamiliar territory many times, in places that I hadn’t even done much prior research on. A few others I had been to once or more before and I knew what to expect. No matter where I was, near or far, I always found something that made it feel like home. You can been thousands of miles away from familiar territory, but since the world is so integrated it can feel like you are right next door.
Sitting on the coast of Kennebunkport, ME May 25, 2011
I was born on the west coast, and although I currently situate myself in Missouri I have found myself traveling to the Wild West many times, and it feels familiar to me. The East coast, notably the New England coast, has always been a whole new bird. Strange and different from the warm waters of the Pacific. It was in this strange land that I had ventured yesterday, and found myself gazing upon the waters in this morning.
It turns out that as many differences that the West coast and the East coast have, there are still some simliarities. What? Well the answer is perhaps so simple that it seems ridiculous to state it, but they are both coastal environments. They both offer that same salty air serenity that many of us crave as a vital piece to our mental well being. The sound of the waves crashing, the feel of the ocean spray in the air. Thousands of miles away from the golden coast and I felt like I was in the same place, especially as the sun was shining on a warm Spring day.
Kennebunkport, ME Morning of May 25, 2011
As I traveled west towards my destination for the night, a relative’s home in the country of upstate New York, I saw many things that made me feel like even less space was between I and my home. Many of the trees were similar to those of the midwest, agriculture dotted the land (although much sparser than that of the midwest), and road-kill deer littered the sides of the road. When I reached Lake Champlain it was flooded, much like the flooding of the midwest right now. Homes sat in a couple feet of water and fields looked like lakes, the water only a foot from the railways and roadbed. Was I really halfway across the continent?
The flooding of Lake Champlain, NY May 25, 2011
The differences were certainly more noticeable. The mountains were much taller, animal Xing signs warned not only of deer, but also moose and bear, roadway outcrops had more igneous and metamorphic rocks than sedimentary. Gas stations and restaurants of unfamiliar names appeared on highway signs and of what agriculture I did see it was predominantly livestock as opposed to crops. I was certainly in a different place, so why did I feel so close to home?
I think sometimes we spend so much time looking at the differences that we miss out on the similarities. We point out the items that stick out like a sore thumb to what we are accustomed to, focusing on them. We forget to acknowledge that all of these places, or people in some cases, are of the same world, same universe, and even the same matter. While travel is usually directed towards finding something different, perhaps we should also consider what is the same. I think our world would be a much better place if we all realized that every place, and every person, has something in common with another. Next door or thousands of miles away, our lives are intricately woven together in this universe.
What we do today can have effects on others for years to come. Whether it be an action, a voiced opinion, or a product of our creative mind, we all have an input on the way the world revolves. Each of us has a part to play in this small world, each of us our strengths and weakensses. It is up to us to determine what role we can play best to contribute. Even though we all have our unique attributes, we are all of the same place- we should never forget that.
-Nicole
Travel is a complex activity that can originate from many different inspirations. Some of us travel to get away, others travel to learn, some travel to experience. No matter what the reason of travel, we all chose to go somewhere specific for one reason or another. Some of the places we visit because we have seen advertisements for them, read about them in books or online articles (such as this website, geojeep.com), or what we have heard from family and friends. My trip to Kennebunkport, Maine was one of the latter, and I dedicate this particular spot to my late paternal grandparents.
Me, sitting on the shore of Kennebunkport, Maine. May 24, 2011The ocean spray as the waves hit the cliffs of Kennebunkport, ME. May 24, 2011
They loved to travel, and went on as many trips to many places within the U.S. They passed away within 4 months of each other a little over a year ago, but I still remember clearly what how they described Kennebunkport. They had told me several times that someday, if I had the chance, I should visit the area. Today, I followed their advice and did just that.
Kennebunkport, ME coast. May 24, 2011
Kennebunkport Maine is along the Atlantic coast, almost as far south as you can get for the state. The coast mostly consists of rocky cliffs, constantly bombarded by the waves of the ocean, water spraying up high into the air when if find no other place to go. There are a few sandy beaches, but I would have to say this coast is not about basking in the sun and swiming in the sea: It’s about absorbing your surroundings, and drinking ni what a coastal environment has to offer for your health. I chose to play most of the day on ear, having booked a hotel less than 10 miles away at a Comfort Inn. I looked at the map and found the road closest to the ocean and simply headed in that direction.
Standing on the seaside cliffs of Kennebunkport, ME. May 24, 2011
I was pleasantly suprised by a beautiful coast, lined by granite outcrops that cut sharply down to the cold sea. Little did I know at that moment, but almost all of the area was just as scenic. As I followed the roads into the afternoon I couldn’t find a single spot that wasn’t as picturesque as the last.
I chose to eat dinner at a restaurant with a view of the ocean. Pier 77 was located on the coast, with a view of Cape Porpoise harbor where lobster boats come in during the season. It was here that I ordred lobster for the first time, and I have to say it was delicious.
Pier 77 restuarant, near Kennebunkport, Maine. May 24, 2011The view from my table at Pierr 77 in Maine. May 24, 2011Lobster in Maine. at Pier 77 near Kennebunkport. May 24, 2011
The chef had everything perfectly prepared, the greens with the perfect seasoning and everything was always artfully placed on the plate. My server was by far superior to most I have ever had the pleasure of dining with, especially considering he knew very well how to handle a single patron. Many try to overcompensate attention to a diner who is eating alone, but he had just the right mix of talk and space. I orderd a desert, the creme brulee, of which they serve garnished with an orchid blossom.
The Creme Brulee @ Pier 77 near Kennebunkport, ME. May 24, 2011If you haven't tried creme brulee, I encourage you to do so. Make sure you have a good chef. Pier 77, May 24, 2011Beign the orchid lover I am, I felt the need to reassemble my garnish. May 24, 2011 @ Pier 77 in Kennebunkport, ME
I finished dinner just in time for sunset, and as I rushed out the door to make sure I caught the sunset on my camera, to be viewed eternally, I noticed something to the east: A rainbow. This marks the third I have seen in this trip, and for something that is touted as so rare I am very thankful for this symbol of success. Everytime I see one I feel reassured that everything will be ok. I have been through many storms, but I will always find a rainbow afterwards.
The rainbow of Maine, May 24, 2011The partial rainbow outside Pier 77 in Kennebunkport, ME. May 24, 2011Sunset at Pier 77 in Maine. May 24, 2011
Tomorrow I will head from Maine to upstate New York to visit a relative of mine in the country. I can’t gurantee any rainbows, but I can gurantee this: Life is full of adventure, and the those who are truely successful in life are those who are active in the constant motion. We can’t control everything, but we can control our reactions to what life throws at us. Success is measured in our own eyes, and by no one else. Tomorrow is simply a promise to myself that I will succeed another day. You should do the same. I’ll see you there…
-Nicole
One of the many nice amenties you get for paying more for a hotel: An indoor pool at the Comfort Inn of Biddeford, ME (near Kennebunkport)The anchor dedicated to George Bush along the coast in Kennebunkport, ME. May 24, 2011The lobster ship dock near Pier 77 near Kennebunkport, ME. May 24, 2011A picture I title "Finne". May 24, 2011 in Maine.
Fear does a funny thing to us, especially a fear of what we can not control. The of one person can often lead to mass panic by others. We seek out to either detroy the source of the fear, or if we can’t, we jump at every sound. Such was the effect of the panic during the late 17th century, when 20 men and women were killed.
The Salem Witch Museum, May 24, 2011, Salem, MA
Spending the night near Boston, in Danvers, MA, I discovered I was only 7 miles away from historic Salem, MA. A place of many interesting places, such as the House of Seven Gables, a historic maritime past, and most notably to the American public: The Salem Witch Trials. My first stop in Salem was at the Salem Witch Museum, an interesting display of the history and causes of the hanging of 19 men and women, and one man who was pressed to death.
It is described as being a time of panic created by some young, bored girls of Salem village. The times of the puritans were difficult and incredibly strict, leaving little entertainment for young girls who were couped up in the home. They began to play games, creating their own sort of “witchcraft”, and soon they had theirselves freightened. Many of the girls starting going into a near catonic state, staring off into space for long periods of time. The girls began to blame their actions on others, and used witchery as an excuse. They began blaming innocent villagers of Salem of practicing witchcraft, and since the doctor could not explain the girls’ state with the medicine of the time, the villagers followed suit in the hysteria.
Each of the accused was allowed a trial, but these trials were often unfair. If a judge ruled not guilty, the girls would go into a frenzy and a retrial would find the defendent guilty. At first they were simply jailed, but when the girl’s afflictions continued they decided hanging was the only way to rid themselves of the devil’s work.
Giles Corey, who was pressed to death during the Salem Witch Trials. May 24, 2011
One man suffered a more horrendous death when he refused to submit to trial. He was strapped down and a plank put atop him, loaded one by one with heavy rocks. When the man, over 80 years old, continued to refuse more rocks were added on top until his rib cage simply couldn’t hold the weight any longer.
The Salem Witch Trials Memorial in Salem, MA May 24, 2011
Today there is a simple memorial to the deaths of these 20 Salem villages. Located next to the old cemetary, it consists of bench-like protrusions of a granite that has their names, and the the date and method of their death. A rather simple memorial, I think, for something so gruesome that took place.
The Salem Witch Trials Memorial, Historic Salem, MA May 24, 2011
After visiting the places regarding the Salem witch trials, I went to visit the old Maritime exhibit in the bay. A reproduction of “The Friendship of Salem” ship sits in the bay across from the old store. Near by is the House of Seven Gables, made famous by Nathaniel Hawthorne. It was built in 1668, the house still stands as original, having been taken care for over 100 years by preservationalists.
The "Friendship of Salem" reproduction ship at Salem Maritime National ParkThe House of Seven Gables in Salem, MA. May 24, 2011
Something notable is that at the same time of my visit to the Salem Witch Museum a new hysteria was taking place back in Missouri: The tornado hysteria. Tornados are, unfortunately, a regular occurence of the midwest and tornado alley. There are few weeks that pass by during the season when, living in small town Missouri, the tornado sirens don’t go off. Most of the time the tornados touch down in uninhabited areas, and are less powerful than the one that hit Joplin. This tornado outbreak, marked by the destruction of Joplin with an F5, has created a media frenzy that has everyone on high alert. It may be, however, that this time the hysteria is a blessing in disguise. We get so used to hearing the sirens that after a period of time we start to ignore them. This time it was shown just how real that threat is when those sirens go off, and how important it is to be educated about what areas are safe and what are not during such a storm.
It is after times of panic and hysteria that we can look back calmly and learn from the situation that was at hand. While in the case of the Salem Witch Trials the girls finally admitted to their foolery, which resulted in the death of 20 villagers, perhaps in the midwest and other areas afflicted by tornados we can learn something else. It is time to take these sorts of alarms seriously, and step back from our fast paced lives. So often we ignore these warnings because we have “too much to do”.
Life has been increasing in it’s complexity and business to the point we fail to heed simple warnings. It is time to take value of what life is worth, and slow down. When are we going to realize that we can’t keep going at such a speed? I am guilty of this too, and I fault it to our society. As an american society we simply don’t allow for down time. Expectations are high. Let us take stock of how important every day is, whether it is filled to the brim or not, so we can avoid the hysteria that results in negative outcomes.
-Nicole
The first settler of Salem, MA. Downtown historic Salem, MA. May 24, 2011The Salem Maritime Customer House near the bay. May 24, 2011The Salem Maritime National Park May 24, 2011
The Friendship of Salem reproduction ship. May 24, 2011Lilac at the House of Seven Gables in Salem, MA. May 24, 2011. It smelled WONDERFUL!
A closeup of the Lilac at the House of Seven Gables. May 24, 2011
A few of the historic homes of Salem, MA. I love how they could paint the houses bold colors, like black. May 24, 2011
In front of a river in rural Massachusetts. May 23, 2011 (Taken with my Nikon D5000)
A restaurant on the edge of the hairpin curve. May 23, 2011 in rural Massachusetts. (Taken with my Nikon D5000)
What I normally share are the different stops along my journey. You get to see the grand places I have chosen to see along my grand adventure: the parks, caverns, museums, beachs and universities. Since today had no stops at such places I figured it was the perfect opportunity to share with one of the largest time consumers of my adventure: the drive. You can thank technology, and the ease of taking a picture with my cell phone, for most of these photos (a little lower quality than my Nikon D5000).
Many vacationers take a flight to get to their destination. It is sensible when you are on a limited time constraint, but it takes all of the journey out of the vacation. A big part of an adventure is experiencing it all, like watching the environment slowly shift around you until you find yourself in a place completely alienated from what you call home. It also includes the strange vehicles and fellow travelers you see along your route, the beautiful views, the roaring rivers, and the roadside wildflowers. If you are interested in geology, the road cuts are hard to ignore. (I once had a geology professor exclaim that it was an “occupational hazard” as a geologist).
Today was a longer drive, and through an area I had never been to before, so it was quite an experience with plenty to see along the way. After leaving my cousin’s in Baltimore around 730 in the morning I headed through Pennsylvania, which was blanketed in a thick fog. The drive here reminded me a bit of the video game Silent Hill, which happened to be even more fitting since Pennsylvania is full of coal. I used to play that game as a kid and it would scare me so much I would have to pause the game, walk away, and come back.
The foggy drive through Pennsylvania- A little Silent Hill-esque May 23, 2011 (Taken with my Blackberry Curve)
After I made my way through the fog I found myself in the rolling green mountains of eastern Pennsylvania. The towns sat in valleys, with tall church steeples standing out against a sea of mostly white homes and businesses. There were wildflowers blooming along the road that I was able to enjoy when stuck in traffic in a construction zone.
Some of the wildflowers along the road in Pennsylvania. May 23, 2011. (Taken with my Blackberry Curve)The Construction Zone in Pennsylvania. May 23, 2011 (Taken with my Blackberry Curve)
Entering New York for the first time, I had prepared myself to see the country. I had reminded myself several times before this drive that New York state is much more than New York City. Many of us who don’t live on the east coast automatically think of big city lights when thinking of New York. Driving through New York for the first time, most of what I saw was the countryside.
Driving through the mountains in rural New York. May 23, 2011. (Taken with my Blackberry Curve)
Massachusets was much the same as the New York I drove through. My GPS has this lovely option: Anytime I enter a route it asks me if I would like to avoid toll roads. I always click yes, and it will take me on a glorious, scenic router through the country side. Along the way to Boston I saw a waterfall and, without thinking twice, turned right over the bridge so I could make a quick stop to see it.
The bridge, I didn’t notice until I was already on it, was closed in the opposite direction so I had created a bit of a detour for myself. I parked along the road at the end of the bridge, that went over the Conneticut River (I believe) and walked down to where I thought I would be able to see the fall. I walked across an old bridge, following the sound of rushing water, and realized I couldn’t see it from this vantage. When I looked back across the bridge I realized that walking across it probably wasn’t the best idea: The river was flooding and the water was swirling about the bottom of the bridge. The walk back across the bridge to solid ground was disorienting now that I noticed how close the roaring surface of the river was to my feet. It made you feel as if you were walking a little sideways.
The flooding Connecticut River in Massachusetts. May 23, 2011. (Taken with my Nikon D5000)The bridge in Massachusetts that was near flooding stage- It was scary to walk across!) May 23, 2011 (Taken with my Nikon D5000)
After arriving safely on the other side I took more pictures of the area and promptly decided it was probably time to get back on the road so I could arrive at my hotel in Boston area at a decent hour. The rest of the drive was fairly uneventful. I took pictures of some notable signs that I don’t see on a regular basis (I missed taking a picture of “Moose Xing” right outside of Boston).
A Bear Xing sign in rural Massachusetts May 23, 2011 (Taken with my Blackberry Curve)
Tomorrow was to be another day, full of activities, and the long drive had worn me out. It wasn’t hard to sleep tonight. You may ask why I would want to spend so much time driving. I get asked all the time how I can spend so many hours on the road. Well, I think all of these pictures tell the tale themselves, but the answer is simple: It is an exciting journey, full of sites and experiences all in it’s own. While we plan on starting and ending points, and certain via points along the way, the journey itself can sometimes be just as stimulating. It sure beats sitting an an airplane looking at clouds all day.
-Nicole
The amazing confetti peanut butter cookies, baked by my good friend in North Carolina, that fueled my drive. May 23, 2011 (Taken with my Blackberry Curve)This Semi was coming right at me!!! (Not really...it was being towed...still looks scary, right) Taken with my Blackberry CurveIt turns out this boat was going in the same direction as me, I saw it all the way to Troy, New York from Baltimore, MD. (Taken with my blackberry curve)The hair pin curve in Massachusetts. Famous, apparently. May 23, 2011 (Taken with my Blackberry Curve)My GPS took me through downtown Troy, NY for some reason... May 23, 2011 (Taken with my Blackberry Curve)A bridge in Rural New York where I took the picture of the roaring river (next). May 23, 2011. (Taken with my Nikon D5000)
The Little Hoosic River in rural New York, along route 2. May 23, 2011. (Taken with my Nikon D5000)Along the "Taconic Trail". May 23, 2011 (Taken with my Nikon D5000)
The flooding river in Massachusetts May 23, 2011 (Taken with my Nikon D5000)
It is amazing, the things that are created by the Earth’s processes. While we have an understanding of what can be created in a century or less, the Earth creates something over millions of years. A cave is one of those miraculous Earth-created wonders that most of the world’s population has been unable to appreciate. It’s hard to comprehend something like Luray Caverns that has been building and growing for millions of years, it’s speleothems accumulating at one cubic inch every 120 years.
Dream Lake at Luray Caverns. The bottom is just a reflection of the top. May 22, 2011
I will preliminate the tales of Luray Caverns with something that may set you up for expectations, but you won’t be disappointed. Luray Caverns is one of the most beautiful caves I have ever had the pleasure to be in. It is so highly decorated there is scarcely a wall of limestone that doesn’t have some sort of deposit upon it. Every direction you look is picturesque, it is no wonder that the National Park Service designated Luray Caverns as a registered Natural Landmark.
An antique Luray Caverns sign. May 22, 2011
Luray Caverns was discovered in 1878 by Andrew Campbell of Luray, Virginia. He found some cold air blowing out of a sink hole and came back with more men to begin digging for what he knew had to be a cave. It is confined to a 100 foot thick zone in the Beekmantown Dolomite formation. It has no natural entrance to speak of, other than a very small, impassible hole where Mr. Campbell discoverd the blowing air. Perhaps the lack of openings allowed the cavern to develop so well, and so pristine. It has never been a bat hibernaculum, and no animals call the caverns home.
Fried "cave" eggs of Luray Caverns, Virginia. May 22, 2011 (They are actually broken stalagmites that break and are rounded by water erosion & redepostition)
The cave honestly put me into an emptional swirl, much like my first visit to Carlsbad Caverns in December 2009 (For those of you who haven’t followed me until now, click here for that story). This is only the second time I’ve experienced a cave so beautiful that I had to fight back tears. I know it sounds ridiculous, even I thought it was ridiculous….but it simply evokes that sort of emotion from me. The cave was beautiful, each room arguably more beautiful than the last. There were many unique formations, all with appropriate names.
Luray Caverns' Dream Lake. May 22, 2011Pluto's Ghost, in the lower right, in Luray Caverns of Virginia. May 22, 2011
Pluto’s Ghost sits in Pluto’s Chasm, something you see several timess through the self guided tour. The audio tour is included with general admission, and is very informative. Titania’s Veil is a beautiful, stark white drapery that will amaze you. Saracen’s Tent is a beautiful drapery formed as a perfect tent, and some cave bacon on the side of it looks exactly like a towel. Dream lake is towards the beginning of the self-guided tour, and although the water is under 2 feet deep it reflects amazingly well and creates a perfect illusion.
In Saracen's Tent of Luray Caverns: A drapery that looks just like a bath towel. May 22, 2011Titiania's Veil in Luray Caverns of Virginia. May 22, 2011
More intriguing to the average visitot, but cringing to the avid caver and geologist, are the Great Stalacpipe Organ. Boasting the title of the world’s largest musical instrument, this organ is electrically wired to specific stalactites throughout the cavern, each that creates it’s own note. It was created in 1954 by Leland Sprinkle, an electronic scientist at the Pentagon. Yes, the organ plays while you are touring the Cathedral room. It is on an automated system that plays every few minutes. While the thought of having instruments wires to the beautiful speleothems is not something I like to think about, the music is rather beautiful.
The Great Stalacpipe Organ of Luray Caverns, Virginia. May 22, 2011The mechanism in Luray Caverns that strikes the stalactites, sounding the notes for the organ. May 22, 2011
Another tourist spot is the Wishing Well. All commercial caves have had area like this, where in the uneducated past visitors would throw coins into a deep pool to make a wish. Luray Caverns still has one today, the water turning a blueish green from all of the metals. It is with good cause, though… the coins get to be a foot or two thick every year or so, and the Caverns donates this money to various charities, and have donated more than $400,000 to good causes, cleaning out the pool every year before the coins decay.
The Wishing Well of Luray Caverns, Virginia. May 22, 2011
Don’t believe me yet? Well here’s what the Smithsonian Institution reported in 1880 of Luray Caverns:
“…it is safe to say that there is probably no other cave in the world more completely and profusely decorated with stalactitie and stalagmite ornamentation than that of Luray”.
Alexander Brand, Jr. of the New York Times said:
“It’s a magnificent cave, the most beautiful I’ve ever seen. Trying to compare your cave to others would be like comparing New York City to the town of Luray”
If you still don’t believe me, look at the pictures at the end of this entry. I took hundreds while visiting Luray and I had a hard time selecting which ones to share…there were simply too many beautiful places within those caverns. I recommend anyone that is ever in the Shenandoah Valley region to make Luray Caverns a priority stop.
Some local Rootbeer sold at Luray Caverns. Virginia. May 22, 2011The Stalactite Cafe of Luray Caverns. May 22, 2011
Luray Caverns has more than just caves. It has a Car and Carriage Caravan museum, which houses many unique and rare automotbiles and carriages. I was able to see one of the earliest Dodge vehicles (being a Mopar fan, this was fantastic), and of course many of the early Fords including a Model N (to the love of my Father, who is a Ford man of taste).
A 1906 Ford model N at the Car & Carriage Caravan museum of Luray Caverns. May 22, 2011The 1915 Dodge logo on one of their early cars. The Car & Carriage Caravan Museum at Luray Caverns.
There are also great views of the Shenandoah Valley, a nice cafe to eat at, several museums, camping and hotels within a short distance. I took the scenic route out of the Luray area, headed to Baltimore to visit my cousin. (Now, whether the country road travel was on purpose or an accident I will not divulge, but you can imagine…)
Since words simply can’t describe how beautiful today was in full, here are some pictures to enjoy. I’ll see all of you here tomorrow, after I spend a day driving from Baltimore, Maryland to Boston, Massachusetts. A drive that promises to be scenic and interesting. Until then….
-Nicole
Luray Caverns. Luray, Virginia Mayy 22, 2011Luray Caverns. Luray, Virginia. May 22, 2011Luray Caverns in Luray Virginia, May 22, 2011. See the cave bacon?Rimstone in Luray Caverns (only an inch tall or less). May 22, 2011Luray Caverns. Notice Titiania's Veil in the background. May 22, 2011A close up of the radiator cap on the Ford Model N. The Car & Carriage Caravan Museum of Luray Caverns, Virginia.A Ford Model T at the Car & Carriage Caravan Museum of Luray Caverns. One of the earliest Dodge vehciles, 1915. Car & Carriage Caravan Museum of Luray Caverns, Virginia. An early Ford Radiator cap. The Car & Carriage Caravan Museum of Luray Caverns, Virginia. Shenandoah Valley, Virginia- Countryside. May 22, 2011
A valley that sits between the Blue Ridge and the Ridge & Valley parts of the Appalachian Mountains, Shenandoah is a gorgeous area full of rivers, farms, and most notably in my case, caves. Most of these caverns lie in the Beekmantown Formation of Ordovician age. Today was a chance to visit a cave of a different region to study it’s speleothem development, and to take in what Shenandoah Valley has to offer.
I had made a game plan for today and the next, but I decided to throw it out the window and go with the flow. I had no idea just how many caverns were in the area and I decided I would see at least two to get a better idea of this area’s karst development. The first cave I decided to see boasted the title of being the deepest cavern on the East coast: Natural Bridge Caverns.
The billboard at the entrance to Natural Bridge Caverns. Virginia. May 21, 2011
The cave tour wasn’t all that long, a guided tour through the caverns, and the cave wasn’t too highly decorated. Moss and bacteria covered many areas, including the limited speleothems that were present. It seems that this area is well known for the cave’s namesake, the Natural Bridge, and thus gains most of the company’s attention. Unfortunate because this cave could be a much better tour if they did a little preservation effort. The cave has two natural entrances, which may have explained the lack of speleothem development due to an increase in air flow.(Or perhaps the overlying lithology that is less permeable?)
The largest of the speleothems at Natural Bridge Caverns in Viriginia. May 21, 2011
I gathered my information and photos with scale from the cave, and more information to research later thanks to an incredibly helpful staff member behind the desk who answered my questions as honestly as he could, and admitted what he did not know. I always appreciate it when a cave tour guide admits they don’t know and offers a venue to obtain the information. The worst is when tour guides start making things up, and luckily this particular man (not my actual tour guide) of Natural Bridge Caverns was honest and helpful enough to do just that.
Some of the few soda straws in Natural Bridge Caverns. Virginia. May 21, 2011
After the cave it was time to do some country driving on my way to my KOA campsite. Shenandoah Valley is, after all, well known for it’s fantastic agricultural landscape nestled between the mountains. The view was gorgeous, rolling fields of green with the mountains standing against the sky in the background. I went to a grocery store to get something to cook at camp, having directions gained from my helpful KOA hostess. This was certainly the biggest grocery store I have ever seen. It was the size of a large Wal-Mart supercenter, yet it was all groceries! I had trouble locating my potatoes….until I realized they had their own section. The produce section of this grocery store is almost the size of the entire grocery store back in Missouri.
The KOA I stayed at for the night. I thought the sign was pretty. May 21, 2011. Shenandoah Valley, Virginia.
My campsite was pretty nice considering I am used to camping in State and National parks. KOA’s always have ample amenities thorughout the camp. My site was in a quiet, forested area near a small brook that trickled along. I was able to cook my food (while holding my breath, it turns out the Jalapenos from this monster of a grocery store were extra powerful and I couldn’t breath near my food while cooking..!!!) and settle down in front of my fire (which consisted of the fire starters, the logs never set….ha ha…) in peace and quiet.
My campsite at the Shenandoah Valley KOA (Firestarted burning, not the logs..ha ha!)
Tomorrow I plan to visit another cave of the Shenandoah Valley, and I have a couple ideas. I don’t know which one I’ll stop at for sure. Sometimes it’s best to play it by ear rather than have it planned. What I do know is that I will have fun no matter where I go. Adventurous spirits don’t find adventurous places, they find adventure everywhere, and anywhere, they go. Until tomorrow’s adventure-
Nicole
The grocery store even had a wide variety of different tomatoes. This was called the heritage tomatoe. It was tasty in my beef, potatoe, onion & jalapeno stir fry. May 21, 2011The view on the way to my KOA campsite in Shenandoah Valley, Virginia. May 21, 2011
Travel is something of an addiction. After traveling to places of geologic, historic and cultural importance you find the desire to see more. Some people collect items, like model cars, stamps and coins. Traveling is a hobby of collection that is insatiable, there is so much to see and such a short life to see it in. So why would I want to return to some places, like the Biltmore, that I have already visited? It boils down to a simple fact: the travelers of the world collect memories.
The Biltmore Estate Home.Front facade. May 20, 2011
Often visiting something once simply isn’t enough because the place offers so much to experience. Memories come in many colors, whether it be gained knowledge, culture, experience, friendship and more we seek to add them into our mind banks. The Biltmore Estate is so much more than the largest home in America. It is one of the first successful lanscaping forestry projects, thousands of acres covered in local and exotic plants, a winery, a working farm, hiking trails, animals, shopping, gourmet foods and more. Every season, every year, is a differend experience. This year I went to visit with a good friend of mine who moved to North Carolina a few years ago and lived reasonably close to Asheville, the city created by the Biltmore Estate.
The baby goats at Biltmore Estate kept trying to eat my shoe laces. Only a few weeks old. May 20, 2011
The large home bulit by George Vanderbilt in the late 1800s, which takes up 4 acres of floor space (That’s 174, 240 square feet!!!!) is the center attraction of the 125,000 acre Biltmore Estate. Designed by Richard Morris Hunt (founder of the American Institute of Architects and designer of great works like the pedestal for the statue of liberty) the house took only 6 years to complete. A marvelous feat for a home that was so detailed, and the size of over 80 average sized homes combined!
The Nursery at Biltmore Estate. May 20, 2011
The grounds were designed by landscape architect Frederick Law Olmsted, the pioneer of American Landscape architectecture and forestry. There are gardens galore to walk through, a beautiful pond, a large, stately nursery and beautiful forested grounds. You could spend days looking at nothing by the grounds and still not see all of it, not to mention that it changes every season with different plants in bloom and different annuals in the ground/ in the nursery.
One of the many statues in the Italian Garden of the Biltmore Estate. May 20, 2011
The running of Biltmore Estate is a remarkable feat. A private home until 1956, the estate is one of the only self-sufficient National Historic Landmarks, receiving no grants or government funding to continue restoration and availability to the public. The admission fee is a little more expensive than many places, around $50, but there is simply so much to offer that it is well worth it. If you sign up for the newsletter you get discounts in an email. Three days before my visit to the Biltmore Estate I received an email offering 50% off admission price.
My friend and I were able to tour the house, where no photography is allowed, and then wander around the estate (all at our own pace). We both agreed that to truly drink in all the Biltmore Estate has to offer you would have to be here for several days. Every corner you turn there is something more to see. There is a hotel on the grounds you can stay at and I have often thought of spending a nice 4-day weekend here.
One of the numerous Hydrangeas at Biltmore Estate this time of year. I love anything that is blue. May 20, 2011
I absorbed as much of the Biltmore Estate as I could, and then we headed back home. Tomorrow was to be another day in the life of a traveler, and it was time to head north and visit a state I had never been to before, along with a new cavern in a geoologic province I had never been to before. Time to store this memory, and ready to collect more.
See you then,
Nicole
One of the many orchids in the nursery at Biltmore Estate. May 20, 2011I have discovered that among the many plants I love, Gardenia is one of them. Someone buy me one? Biltmore Estate, May 20, 2011Some flowers at the Biltmore Estate, May 20, 2011One of the baby goats at the Biltmore Estate farm, trying to eat my camera case. May 20, 2011The baby goats at the Biltmore Estate farm were just too cute!!! May 20, 2011The Belgian horses of Biltmore Estate. May 20, 2011
Waterfalls can teach us all something. The water rushes along it’s riverbed powerfully, rounding the edges of boulders and taking with it anything that happens to land within its grasp. Throughout it’s entire path, the water is never as powerful as when it lets go and falls, absent of boundaries, down the edge of a cliff and into a big pool on the bottom. Sometimes to take life by the horns you literally have to let go.
One of the best tips I could give anyone about traveling is to have big gaps in time not planned. I had thought I would sleep in today, but I found out something interesting as I was checking in to my campsite last night: Waterfalls. South Carolina is full of them. The tantalizing thought of going on a waterfall hunt was too much to resist, so I woke up early and began my waterfall hunt armed with a guide from the Devil’s Fork S.P. camp store.
Heading back into South Carolina after a short "detour". May 19, 2011
Luckily the hang tag I was given for my campsite is also good at many State Parks, so I had no additional park use fees to hunt the waterfalls. The first falls on the agenda was Twin Falls. I misread the directions and spent an extra 40 minutes of driving along a winding mountain road, all the way into North Carolina. It turned out to be a fortous mistake, and I let the road dictate where I went next. I found butterflies galore, picturesque roads winding through emerald mountain forests, some hairpin turns the very image of those car advertisements. I was even able to be in two places at once, as I got out of my Jeep at the state line of North and South Carolina and put on foot on each side.
Standing in two places at once. My left foot in North carolina, my right foot in South Carolina. May 19, 2011Grafitti on a rock outcrop in South Carolina along my "detour" route. May 19, 2011
I did manage to backtrack my way to Twin Falls. Located at the end of a rural road in Northwestern South Carolina, the finale of a beautiful 1/4 mile walk through the woods on a narrow path along Reedy Cove Creek. The water rushes over 70 feet of bare granite falling in two seperate curtains of water (hence why it is called Twin Falls, although it is also known as Eastatoe Falls). The water is cool, and as with all falls it sends a vapor of water into the air making the immediate environment feel a bit cooler than the rest.
Twin Falls, AKA Eastatoe Falls. May 19, 2011Standing in front of Twin Falls (AKA Eastatoe Falls) in South Carolina. May 19, 2011A boulder of Granite floating in a pool of water in Granite. May 19, 2011 at Twin Falls South Carolina
After I spent some time at Twin Falls I decided it was time to find another waterfall, so I settled on seeing a few things along the route to my next stop in North Carolina. The next waterfall sits right along Highway 11 in South Carolina, known as Wildcat Branch Falls. It isn’t all that large, but it is rather beautiful and easy to find.
South Carolina's Wildcat Branch Falls May 19, 2011Flowers at Wildcat Branch Falls in South Carolina. May 19, 2011
Next up was one of the most sought after waterfalls anyone wants to see: Raven’s Cliff Falls. It was described as being a 2 mile hike to see the falls, but also well worth it. Raven’s Cliff Falls is a full 420′ tall, cascading down theblue ridge escarpment to a pool below. (It occurs where the Blue Ridge Province drops 2000′ down to the Piedmont Province for you geology folks) I regularly walk a 6 mile loop at home, so I figured 2 miles would be easy enough. I forgot to include the mountain terraine in my calculations of time. Not only that, but the 2 mile trek only led to a distant view of the falls. If I wanted to see the falls up close, I would have had to hike another 3+ miles along a route that descends 2000 feet, and reascends the 2000 feet in this distance, adding another 4 hours to my hike.
The trail to Raven's Cliff Falls. May 19, 2011Azaleas on the trail to Raven's Cliff Falls. May 19, 2011
Never the less, the walk was beautiful with all the Azaleas and various plants in bloom. Every twist and turn in the path led to another view of white, pink, red, yellow and blue blossoms. It was truly late Spring here in South Carolina.
A bloom on the ground on the way to Raven's Cliff Falls South Carolina. May 19, 2011
Unfortunately I did not have time to attempt this additional hike, but I would love to return. If you plan on visiting the Raven’s Cliff Falls area I highly recommend spending the entire day there, if not more. There is a nearby South Carolina state park called Cesar’s Head State Park. The drive is yet another beautiful one, Highway 276 curves through the emerald green forests of South Carolina. There are numerous trails to follow in the 40,000 acres of preserve, an area preserved by the Mills and Moore families of South Carolina until 1981 when South Carolina took possession of the land to be protected for years to come.
Raven's Cliff Falls in South Carolina. May 19, 2011
The waterfalls in South Carolina are countless, yet they all give in to the world around them. There is always a time to carve your own path through the granite, and a time to fall and let the world take us where we should be. We may get to carve the path to the best falls, but all of us fall from time to time. The success lies in how we view that fall. If we view the fall as our ability to show how strong we can be in the most helpless of times, then we all succeed. True happiness doesn’t come from suceeding in easy times, it comes from surviving in the times we can’t control.
Tomorrow I will be visiting a grand home in North Carolina with a good friend of mine who moved to the area a couple years ago. I have already been there once, and so has she, but we both enjoy it so much we had to see it again. Where will we be going? Well I guess you’ll just have to flow with the water and find out where…..
Until the bottom of the waterfall,
-Nicole
Some butterflies I found on my way to Twin Falls in South Carolina. May 19, 2011The short 1/4 mile walk to Twin Falls in South Carolina. May 19, 2011South Carolina's Twin Falls (AKA Eastatoe Falls) May 19, 2011Raven's Cliff Falls from a distance. May 19, 2011. South Carolina. The sign that made me decide that a distant view of Raven's Cliff Falls was good enough...for today. May 19, 2011The trails at Mountain Bridge Wilderness Area, near Ceasar's Head State Park May 19, 2011
