Many emblems of the world hold multiple meanings. It is of no surprise that a rainbow holds various meanings of symbolism. A rainbow can be a sign of success after a hard time or a symbol that it is ok to be yourself even if you stand out from a crowd. It can also be a way to describe something that has many different faces and colors. A rainbow expresses itself by claiming that it is not strictly the embodiment of one self, but many. Olympic National Park is also a park of many colors- and yes, it even has rainbows.
It comes as a big surprise to many that the continental United States is actually home to a rain forest. The Hoh rain forest located within the protective confines of Olympic National Park receives an average of twelve FEET of rain. This was the first color of Olympic N.P. that I was able to experience, only a few miles south of my campsite in Bogachiel S.P.
The lush rain forest is a lot like you would expect. Temperatures are moderated by the lower elevation and maritime effect of the nearby coast; it rarely drops below freezing or above 80 degrees Fahrenheit. Mosses, ferns and lichens grow all over everything, from the expected soil to the trunks of trees and other woody plants they can cling their sticky roots to. The Sitka Spruce trees are probably the most sought trees to visit, they tower into the sky by more than 20 stories.
Looking up into the sky- although the dense rain forest does make the sky patches few- often gives you a view of a rainbow halo. The mist from the humid rain forest rises into the sky, forming a circular rainbow that encompasses the sun. Nearby is the Hoh River, and mud roads lead to the cobbled riverbed that you can drive up onto, right up to the river’s edge. It is a beautiful sight (and a lot of fun for those who drive Jeeps!)
The colors of Olympic National park don’t stop there. As I headed south along the coast I was able to visit the park’s 73-mile long wilderness coast. Here the forest meets the Pacific in grand views overlooking rocky cliffs, tide pools, towering rocks in the surf, and boneyards of giant Sitka Spruce and other trees that accumulate at river deltas.
The coast is breathtaking, a stark contrast against the enclosing, green walls of the rainforest, it opens up into a great big sky and the sea that stretches further than the eye can see. Wildflowers line the cliffs as you look down upon the sandy beach below, and in the distance islands interrupt the endless waves of the Pacific.
Looking back inland you can see the mountainous portions of Olympic N.P., some peaks are still topped in snow, an alpine ecosystem less than a half day’s drive from the temperate rain forests and coastal beauties. Not only does the park have rainbows, it is a rainbow itself.
Tomorrow I will be visiting two more colors of the rainbow of a geologic world- ones I have yet to see in person. What colors will I see tomorrow? I guess you will have to come back to find out.
-Nicole
Escape from reality is something sought by a majority of society. Whether we read a book, watch a movie or tv show, or play video games we are all looking for a break. Many people even spend a large percentage of their time achieving this goal. Life is so mundane in reality that we have to live other lives within our mind. It is a recent addition to the needs of being human- we used to be too busy working to live to delve into creative arts. Now we don’t only create alternative worlds, we live in other’s creations.
Today was a day where I would mesh both worlds together. A few of the fantasy worlds that I enjoyed as a guilty pleasure when I needed a break from the daily grind, and the real world, were about to come together. As I left Seattle I decided to leave in the only way a Grey’s Anatomy character would: On a ferry boat.
My Jeep is the epitome of adventure, and I have been many places in it. So far I have driven on snow, rocks, roads, mountains, deserts and the great plains. Today my Jeep would accomplish something it had never experienced before: it would drive onto a boat and ferry across the bay. I pulled into line at the Fauntleroy terminal where I would board the ship. I enjoyed some more “No Woman” cheese from Seattle’s Beecher’s cheese (courtesy of a relative I stayed with in Seattle) as I waited in line.
Boarding a ferry is kind of like parking at a big event. They line you up in order and direct you into a specific line where you will park as close as possible to the car in front of you. The instant everyone parks they exit and run up to the top deck where they can shelter from the cooler weather and enjoy concessions. I stayed on the lower deck for a while, enjoying the solitude and feeling the sea breeze. I imagined that Meridith enjoyed the same breeze as she stood on the ferry with Derrick. I think sometimes we spend so much time enjoying these alternate realities we forget that these characters aren’t real…they feel real.
I decided to head up to the concession to get a cup of hot tea and explore the rest of the ferry boat. I could stand at the antiqued controls of the boat just like I was the captain. As I sipped my coffee I took in the view of the water rushing away behind me. On the back wall a plaque was placed in memory of the former captain of this ship. Captain David Summerfield Moon was the former first officer, he died in June of 1977 when he went down with his ship in Alaska. The plaque offered no details of the story, but I imagined it to be one of bittersweet courage. A man surely born a sailor and died a sailor.
After deboarding the ferry boat I followed the coast of Washington, circling around Olympic National Park until I reached the town of Forks. Seattle held the familiarity of the Grey’s Anatomy set without announcing it’s significance. It made the illusion of being a part of the fairy tale more real. Forks, however, announced it’s new found fame every opportunity it had. Businesses left and right claimed to be the place to get Twilight merchandise, and a Twilight fan store on the main road played the theme music on loud speakers into the street.
While I had also become a victim of the Twilight series, so enraptured by the story that I read all four books within two weeks of each other, this Forks was not the one I had in my head. The commercialism had destroyed my fantasy world when it came to Forks. All I could think about is how annoyed the residents of Forks must be with all of the Twilight fans coming to visit. While I was excited to visit Forks because I could see the real life place that one of my fairy tales took place in, I was a little embarrassed to admit I was a fan to anyone.
I knew I had to do laundry, so I found the only laundry mat in Forks and sat up shop while my attire swirled in the triple load washers. I went through pictures and looked up some more information on my campsite for the night: Bogachiel State Park . While the scent of gain filled the room as my clothes went through the dryer I chatted with a local girl who was there doing laundry as well.
I went to the local grocery store hoping to get some local cherries. Surely they would be cheaper here in Washington than back home in the midwest. I was disappointed to see that they were $10.99 per lb, so I bought some grapes instead, along with some wines. I was about to have a gourmet meal cooked over a campfire.
Bogachiel State Park was a lot like the forest I imagined Bella and Edward wandering through the rain forest. Everything was so green, moss clinging to the tree trunks, very little of the ground wasn’t covered in ferns or moss. It was, just as the main character of Twilight first described it, an alien world. Too green to be real.
In the green shrubs I found these salmon-colored berries that looked a lot like raspberries. I decided to try them even though I didn’t know what they were. They weren’t too flavorful, a bit more bland than the raspberries I usually enjoyed. I later found out they were unoriginally called “salmon berries” and were perfectly fine to eat. Let me tell you that I only tried a couple berries and was being a bit adventurous…and I do not recommend anyone try any wild fruits or plants unless they can clearly identify it. As so many television shows and commercials state, “Do not try this at home”.
For my dinner I cooked some leftover shortribs over the open fire, and enjoyed some Prosecco sparkling wine in my new Seahawks glass I had purchased the day before in Seattle. I chatted with my camp neighbors, two bicyclists that had been on the road for over a week already, and one of them dried their damp sweatshirt over my fire. There isn’t much room for firewood on a bike. It was pleasant to have some nice neighbors and I shared my ribs with them since I had way more than I could eat myself.
I then settled down for the night in my tent, in the dark underneath the shelter of the tall redwood trees covered in green moss. The reality of the worlds I escaped to from time to time in book and television were certainly different than the fantasy version, but they still held a mystique. In a lot of ways, Seattle and Forks both were better in real life than in the mind. The fantasy worlds had met reality today and as the dark closed in it was time for me to create my own fantasy world. Tomorrow brings more reality- although to be honest, I’m beginning to think the reality of this summer is even greater than any fantasy world I could escape to.
-Nicole
It wasn’t a long drive into Wisconsin, but I could already detect the change in dialect. When I bought my groceries I was no longer offered a “Bag” I was offered a “Beg”, and the word tomorrow had an unusual accent on the second “o” that I wasn’t used to. Yep, I was in dairy land alright.
My first official stop, after buying my groceries for the night, was at Cave of the Mounds in Blue Mounds, WI. A cave that sat beneath a lead prospector’s feet for more than 100 years before the cave was discovered during a blasting in 1939. After almost a year of the family guarding the new cave entrance by rifle to curiosity seekers, the cave was open to the public in 1940 and has been ever since.
It, like it’s neighbor to the East in Iowa (see day 34), is located in the Galena carbonate rock formation. It was mostly formed in a typical carbonic acid/water erosion fashion, but some areas were enlarged with sulphuric acid that bubbled up as the water mixed with the sulphur in the galena (PbS). The speleothem development in Cave of the Mounds is pretty sparse, and it has a lot more of the colored varities than Crystal Lake Cave. In fact, the iron oxide staining in some areas is so prnounced that it looks blood red, as if someone had just maimed themselves on the stalagmite.
Everyone I met at Cave of the Mounds, even though it is privately owned, was very helpful. There were several people on staff that were knowledgeable about the geology of the cave and the surrounding area, and they gave me contact information in case I needed any other information for my personal research project. It was hard to leave the cave, but it was time to head a little further North into Wisconsin to my next campsite: Devil’s Lake State park.
Devil’s Lake State Park is focused around a glacial lake that has no stream inlet to speak of. All of it’s water is either remnant from the last ice age, or a result of precipitation. The lake is beautiful and they have been working hard to restore it after levels of a certain chemical were unsafe and caused “swimmers itch” (something I still don’t quite know much about). It has many, many campsites and if you get into the Ice Age campground you have wooded lots that are fairly private.
I enjoyed some cheese curds, cooked up a stir fry, and drank a local brew called “The Spotted Cow” next to my toasty camp fire. Although I was alone at the campsite, I certainly wasn’t lonely. There was a caterpillar that seemed fixated on crawling on me, as I would throw it into the woods only to have it return half an hour later. Ok,.. who am I kidding, I was a little lonely.
Honestly, camping alone is pretty tough….I enjoy it from time to time, but after a while it can wear on you. I am very excited that my friends will be joining my in South Dakota, more friends joining me in Yellowstone, and another friend in Glacier. I just hope I haven’t grown so accustomed to being alone that I am a terrible host!
Tomorrow I head on to Minnesota, where I will tour yet another cave and experience another unique camp site. I’m slowly getting closer to the big, openness of the West and I can’t wait. Nothing feels more like home…
-Nicole
Nothing worthwhile is achieved without great effort. How you can determine how truly dedicated you are to a cause is by evaluating how long you are willing to try before giving up. Working hard really does pay off, whether it be the intended result or not. Sometimes the result is even better.
Today I slept in a little, with a drive of only 4 hours planned for the day. I was going to head from Savannah Georgia to Athens, Georgia, the hometown of one of my graduate school hopefuls. I had been emailing one of the higher up faculty there in hopes of meeting them while I was here, but unfortunately both of the gentlemen I had been talking to were going to be gone during this part of the summer. Since I had still planned on being in the area I figured it would still be worth a campus visit so I could at least see the campus, the geology building, and the town of Athens and get a feel for the area.
I arrived in Athens about 3pm, and after finding a visitor parking area, I wandered around the campus (with guidance from the campus map board that was stationed near my parking garage). The University of Georgia is quite larger than what I am used to navigating. I don’t know how big Athens really is, but I’m pretty sure that the U of G consumes almost all of it. The campus is really pretty, well landscaped with local plants like blue hydrangea, lilies, and various trees. Every nook and cranny between buildings is well landscaped to include benches and gathering places. It seems no matter where you go you would feel like you have found your own personal oasis. Perhaps this is because it is summer and most of the students and faculty are absent, but I’d like to pretend it is like this all year around.
I found the shared Geology/Geography building with little difficulty. The building was open so I went in and wandered. As with all schools, everything was clearly labeled, and those that weren’t were easy to distinguish. The floor with the rocks was the geology floor. The floor with the giant globe would be the geography floor….in general. I was reading the directory and then looking at some pictures when I noticed a familiar name on one of them. It was the very man who was coauthor of the research the man I had been communicating with published. Not even two minutes later I see a walking image of the picture I had just been examining, so I stop and ask if it was indeed him.
I had caught him at a perfect time, he says. He was just wandering the building, bored, and considering visiting the library to do some mindless reading. He would be more than happy to show me around and talk to me about what the University of Georgia has to offer. We sat and talked about speleothems from different parts of the world for a time, and then he showed me some of the research they were doing now, opening up the labs and showing me specimens. He told me what type of TA and RA offers they typically make- most of the information I need to know to make a solid decision. I was incredibly lucky to have met him, as he is well known in the field. I had considered for a short moment not visiting the campus since the two men I had been communicating with weren’t going to be there, but I was still determined to get as much information as I can. It turns out the determination paid off, well. That makes 2 grad school potentials down, only 3 more to visit to get a good idea of who offers what.
After my visit with the University of Georgia I headed off to my next campsite: Watson Mill Bridge State Park. On the way to Athens to visit the University of Georgia I had stopped by a local fruit stand and picked up some local produce. I purchased 4 1st-of-the-season white peaches (grown from the standowners orchards), 1 ripe tomato, 1 vidalia onion (from Vidalia, GA, so the real deal), and a few potatoes- all for about $3. You can’t beat that. After stopping by a grocery store to pick up some sausage to slice up, and the leftover jalepeno from my cajun hobo dinner I cooked in Gulf State Park on Day 5, I had a really good dinner in the making.
It turns out the park was absolutely gorgeous. I yet again had chosen the best park I could have in the area. The campsites were large, and the entire area was less than half occupied, there was a quaint wooden covered bridge, the nucleus of the park itself, and trails, waterfalls and more. I had to cook dinner and then eat it while walking on the trails I was so excited to experience them before dark.
The place stimulates each of the five senses: The smell of warm cedar. The sound of falling water. The sight of stone mill ruins and a covered bridge. The taste of camp cooked food. And the feel of a cooler, forested climate. It all added up to the fact that I had made the transition from the humid, warm south (which I did love) to the beginnings of the Appalachian Mountains. I was still in the state of Georgia, but something had clearly changed.
I couldn’t get enough of the park. I had planned the next day to be leisurely so I stayed there until almost check out time, taking pictures and relaxing in the canopy of the cedars and other trees. I was tempted to stay there another night, but I had already planned to visit another well-acclaimed state park up in South Carolina: Devil’s Fork State Park. I am determined to experience as much of America as I can on this trip, and my dedication had paid off today- It will certainly pay off tomorrow. I’ll see you there-
Although I tried to schedule most of my trip not have a full day’s worth of driving, there are a few parts where I couldn’t avoid this. Today is one of those days, as I had a 9 hour drive from Gulf State Park to a family friend’s house just North of Tampa. Although the drive was long, it is important to remember that it is less about the destination and more about the journey. This trip, all 14,000 miles of has no singular destination. It is a journey. An adventure that doesn’t end when I arrive at a place I call home. It will enlighten, educate, culture and inspire me for the rest of my life.
I took one last look over the lake at the Gulf State Park campgrounds before I left for the day. I was soon to find out there is much more to Gulf State Park than what I saw at the campgrounds. Beaches line the highway as you start heading east towards Florida. They are your beautiful sand-dune trimmed beaches with white sand and wood picket and wire fences to keep troublesome tourists from trampling the dunes and the sea oats. It was beautifully sunny, so I had taken the top on my Jeep down again after faring the rains of Louisiana. I was certainly enjoying the sunny rays of the sunshine state when I crossed state lines.
Driving along I-10 there were several rainstorms I passes through, including one thunderstorm. Something amazing takes place when you are driving on the interstate going 70 mph: Most of the rain just sweeps right over you. I had to use a towel to wipe off the inside of the windshield a few times, but I was having the time of my life- both because of how refreshing it felt to smell the rain and experience the storm without getting soaked, and observing all the strange looks I got from other drivers along I-10.
As I headed south along I-75, and then along a county road, I started seeing more of the stereotypical Florida: Large trees draped with Spanish moss and orange trees both in groves and randomly dotting the side of the highway. I met up with family friends, who treated me to a dinner at Ruby Tuesday, and then we chatted around the TV about all sorts of things. It turns out one of them makes some spectacular soap, homemade of goats milk. If you are looking for some great organic soaps, visit www.simplycaprine.com. They also make quite a few other products, all organic and made by hand.
Florida is a very large state, with a transition that you can experience if driving from the northern part to the southern tip. It starts as a stereotypical “deep south” climate, as I just described, to a palm-tree covered tropical environment surrounded by the bright blue Caribbean. I may have only been able to experience the driving of Florida today (and the hospitality of local friends) but tomorrow I get to drive across the state to its eastern coast, to stay in a place I absolutely adore: St. Augustine.
Weathering the storm. It’s a difficult decision to make in life, whether to wait something out or to leave and start all over. You have to make a decision based on the unknowns. It may be the most taxing approach: To form a new ball of clay is certainly easier than molding one that has already been. It has been proven to me time and again that although this is the most difficult path it is the most rewarding. It shows your loyalty and your honest trust that everything will work out. Weathering the storm doens’t just give you a sunny day- it gives you rainbows.
New Orleans is a city that knows well what weathering the storm can offer. The city is looking much better than it did when I came to visit in January of 2007. The city is thriving, and it was thanks to a good amount of work and dedication of the people who call NOLA their home. My grandfather was originally from New Orleans area, and he went to visit quite often. One of the treats my family enjoys are beignets served at the Cafe du Monde. I can’t go to NOLA without stopping by the cafe and enjoying an order (or two, in the case of today).
I’m not the only one to think so, either. Cafe du Monde never closes, and yet they are always jam packed full of patrons ready to devour the tasty morsels covered in powdered sugar. They are incredibly affordable, less than a dollar a beignet, coming in orders of 3. For the best effect you should enjoy a Cafe Au Lait with your beignets, a tradition stretching back to 1862. It is a staple of the French Quarter, and something that anyone visiting New Orleans must try. Cafe du Monde’s website: http://www.cafedumonde.com/history.html
I wandered the streets of New Orleans for a couple hours, taking in the surrounding. You can’t walk too far without hearing a live jazz band playing somewhere or another. Oleander fills the flower beds, and other short semi-tropical trees shade the walkways. The French Market is full of vendors selling various drinks, foods, goods and produce. It’s well worth it just venturing around the French Quarter finding various shops, and people.
My next stop was to be along the coast, down to Alabama’s gulf coast. I was going to camp very near the coast, at the Gulf State Park. It wasn’t too far a drive, and the drive is pretty nice. You get to drive underneath the water in a tunnel, and over a lot of waterways on bridges.
The park itself is very well cared for, and the price tag shows. It cost me a whole $36 to camp in a tent for one night. Granted it is a very well cared for park and it is along the coast, but it is twice the price that I have paid for at other campsites. I believe that the campsite is better geared towards RVs than towards camp tenting. If you have an RV this is an excellent place to stay. For a tent it may be a bit pricey.
I did get a nice spot, though. A short walk to the water of inner lake, that connects to the coast. A storm was rolling in when I pulled up to take pictures. I was able to watch as the sky turned dark, lightening filling the sky and thunder echoing across the coast. The water turned from calm to choppy, and dark. I had to take cover under a nearby shelter to keep from getting my camera wet and I considered making a run for my tent, but what followed shortly after was well worth the wait. A rainbow came out on the other side of the lake’s shore.
I was by myself, but I jumped up and exclaimed”Rainbow” out loud. Lightening was still filing the sky behind and to the sides of the rainbow, but the sight was absolutely beautiful and breathtaking. This is what I always wait for after the storm: the rainbow. A rainbow has always been a symbol of coming out of a difficult time even better than before. It’s why I weather the storm, so that I can see the beauty that is born out of it.
For every storm we have to decide whether we will seek sunnier skies, or wait for the rainbow to come out. For me, I will always weather the storm for what I believe in. You never know what miraculous wonder you will see with the next storm. So here’s to anticipating the storm- and loving every minute of it. Another adventure starts tomorrow….until then…
There are many reasons I chose to camp instead of staying in a hotel on my travels. First and foremost, camping is FAR cheaper than any hotel room. Campsites may be a bargain way to travel, but they also offer much more in experiences than any hotel room could ever offer. Not only is each campsite unique, but every night at a campsite is unique since everything revolves around nature. One night you may see all of the stars and a bright moon, and the net night may be cloudy but you were able to take a long leisurely walk on a boardwalk through the swamp, seeing little spotted rabbits, bright yellow birds, dueling lizards and more. Camping is more finding a place to sleep-it’s another facet to your journey. Some camps are better than others, just as some hotels are dirtier than others (but at least with camping you get to sleep in your own bag- you KNOW that’s sanitary). Tickfaw State Park turned out to be a hidden jewel in the camping world, and I am more than happy to share what I have found.
Tickfaw State Park lies on the northern end of Maurepaus lake in Louisianna, a 30 minute drive to the French Quarter if you are planning on visiting the area. They have cabins, group camping sites, RV sites and “unimproved” tent sites. I obviously chose the later and took the unimproved tent site, which charges $12/night plus a $6 processing fee. The camping sites are each nestled in a private alcoved of trees, at least giving you the illusion that you are camping alone.
This alone would have made me a “happy camper” ( Where DOES that phrase originate and why do we use it for everything?) but it turns out the camp has a lot more. It has miles of hiking trails, both along perfectly maintained boardwalks and (if you venture deeper) along wild trails through the wilderness. It has an informative nature center, a water park for the kids (or the kid inside you), a regular park, numerous picnick pavilions, a view of it’s namesake river, the Tickfaw river, from a walking suspension bridge, clean showers and bathrooms, and more!
I found many things that aren’t even listed on the park’s map, such as the “Mother tree” nestled only a few yards off the road alond a dirt path. I saw lots of wildlife like brightly colored birds, multiple types of rabbits, some type of lizards, colorful grasshoppers, lots of blue and green dragonflies, and more. I even caught these two reptiles doing….well…I’m not sure what they are doing, you look at the series and tell me!
I felt like I was in my own personal haven for most of the night, not seeing many other campers at all. Perhaps the flood waters had scared them all away? Or maybe I really had found a wonderful oasis that is hidden from everyone. Either way, it was just the way I like camping to be. If you ever plan on visiting this area of Louisiana I recommend this place as your campsite of choice. You won’t regret it.
Tomorrow I will be heading further east, after enjoyig a beautiful morning in the French Quarter, and I will be staying at another campsite. Will the next one match up to Tickfaw State Park? Until then…
Today I was able to visit the campus of one of my choices of application for graduate school: Mississippi State. I am already pretty specific in what I want to do for my graduate research, and that is to conduct research on speleothem development. If you didn’t know already by reading my previous entries, I love to spend time in caves and my particular interest is finding interesting speleothems such as helectites, soda straws, cave pearls, stalactities, stalagmites and more. The intricate process of the dissolution of limestone and deposition of these minerals into an entirely new product has fascinated me for years. I have sought out schools that have programs and research potential in karst so that I can find my niche in the world. I want to make tremendous contribution to the world of cave science, and to inspire future generations to continue the work for many years to come.
The culture of Mississippi State is very welcoming. Everyone I met was very friendly, and the campus is wide open with plenty of space between the buildings. I was able to tour the facilities with Dr. Mylroie, and meet many of the professors and doctoral researchers that are contributing to geological sciences today. We had a tasty lunch at City Bagels, and if you are ever in Starkville, MS I recommend you to eat there as well. The food was good and the menu was pretty large and varied.
After my visit with Mississippi State I returned to camp to lounge a bit before it was time to cook dinner. The trees were filled with cicadas, their shells litering the stumps and tree trunks. Most find the noice annoying, but for my short stay here I find it somewhat relaxing. Sometimes the best parts of a trip are the downtimes, which is why I try to plan some of it between my busy days as much as possible. It’s the serenity and peace that keeps us all sane when the day closes.
Well, tomorrow I head off to Louisiana. Who knows what adventure this trek will bring me. I guess you’ll just have to come back later to find out. Until then…
States (and Provinces) Covered: 39 states 1 province (MO,AR,TN,MS, LA, AL, FL, GA, SC, NC, VA, MD, PA, NY, MA, NH, ME, VT, ON, WV, OH, IN, KY, IL, IA, WI, MN, SD, WY, MT, ID, WA, OR, CA, NV, AZ, TX, NM, CO, KS )
Why & Where Did I Go On This Trip?
This is the Grand Adventure tour, of which I call “Caves, Waves & Future Paves”. Aptly named, as the goals of this 75 day tour were to: a) visit potential grad schools b)collect data, photos and other information from a broad spectrum of caves throughout the U.S. for my own research and c) to relax among the worlds wonders (including friends, family, mountains, canyons, geologic marvels, coastlines and, of course, caves). It was a life changing and inspiring journey that I want to share with everyone so that you also feel empowered to travel. I have long believed that the most successful education involves hands-on, in-person experiences, and this is it! Starting out in Missouri I did two loops: My Eastern loop, a short 3 day stop at home, and then my Western loop. (See Map Below)