Day 38: Custer State Park & Jewel Cave, South Dakota

There are some experiences in your lifetime you can only have once- the first experiences. The moment when you realize those little post cards with the turquoise blue water isn’t computer enchanced- it actually exists. Custer, South Dakota is that first point in your travels West along I-90 where you start to see those beautiful mountains and vistas that stretch out so far it feels as if they are fake. It still takes my breath away, but sometimes the more exciting part is seeing someone else experience that first view. The excitement of your friends as they see something amazing they never thought could be real is about the closest you can get to that first experience again.

Custer State Park. June 15, 2011

My friends met me in the early morning, having driven all night to meet up with me in Custer. They had been detoured from the flooding in Iowa/Missouri and arrived there later than they had anticipated (intending to nap for a few hours), but they were still more than ready to explore what the area had to offer. We drove through Custer State Park first, stopping by the needles area to climb atop the rocks and take in the view. On the way through I saw what I had been searching for my entire trip: a bison. It was just casually grazing in a field to the left of our travels, and we all stopped to watch.

A bison in Custer S.P. June 15, 2011

We arrived at the North end of the park and at lunch at a local cafe that offered bison burgers, having been appetized by the live one in the park. We then headed to Mount Rushmore National Monument so we could see four of the great presidents of the past gaze eternally upon the land. It was an amazing feat, the brain child of Robinson, carried out by Borglum and son, that took 14 years to complete to the point it is today.

Mount Rushmore National Monument

After visiting the monument we went to see Jewel Cave, the second longest cave in the world (next to the cave I visited a couple weeks ago, Mammoth Cave). Jewel Cave is a bit different than the typical limestone caves we experience in the midwest. It is relatiely barren of the typical stalactite/stalagmite dripstone deposits, but is completely covered in calcite crystals. It feels like you are walking in a giant geode- And no wonder because the crystals developed in much the same way.

Calcite crystals in Jewel Cave. Custer, SD June 15, 2011

The cave was full of water, supersaturated in minerals, and they began to deposit on all surfaces of the cavern as a blanket. The deeper in the cave you are the thicker the crystals will be- a blanket of crystals that can be many feet thick. This is because as the water level dropped, the higher areas in the cave ceased to deposit while the lower areas had more time (and a more saturated solution) to continue to deposit onto the surfaces.
The cave tour is incredibly informative, and our tour guide happened to be a member of a local grotto. We were able to chat about caving in the area and the differences in midwestern caving versus caving of this area. Apparently they have much more maganese in their caves, their suits often covered black like soot after a caving trip. Our caves of the midwest tend to be wetter, and muddier, most of us coming out covered in clay and mud at the end of a cave trip.

Soda straw (the longest) in Jewel Cave, amongst the calcite crystals

After our tour of Jewel Cave we headed back to Custer, picked up some groceries, and then headed to our campsite near Stockton lake in Custer State Park. The campsite here was well shaded by the lodgepole pines, and also abundant pine needle litter to help start the fire. It was nice to sit around the fire with friends instead of being alone for once. We chatted and enjoyed the warmth while watching youtube videos on the one phone out of the three of us that had service.
Tomorrow we had a long drive ahead of us, but it would be a scenic one as we had a couple places to stop along the way. Yellostone was a good drive away, but it was something we were all looking forward to seeing- and a place where we would be meeting up with more friends to turn our party of three into a party of five.
I was enjoying this trip even more now that I had friends joining me. Part of the wonders of travel is sharing those experiences with others, and the ultimate way to do that is to have them there with you. I can take as many pictures as I want and share them all with you- but know that you can’t truly appreciate the depth and beauty of these places without going there yourself. If you chose to go to some of the places I have shared with you, please return the favor by sharing with me. Nothing makes me happier than hearing, and seeing, the wonderment of those expereincing such beautiful places for the first time.
-Nicole

A sunny day at Custer State Park June 15, 2011
A chipmunk in Custer S.P. June 15, 2011
29 at an overlook in Custer S.P. June 15, 2011
Driving through one of the many tunnels in Custer S.P. June 15, 2011
Mt. Rushmore survey marker
29 and the bison in Custer S.P. June 15, 2011
Washington's face at Mount Rushmore. June 15, 2011
Jewel Cave map Part 1
Jewel Cave Map Part 2

Day 37: The transition into the West: A Long Drive through South Dakota

My drive across South Dakota was going to be a long one. I had not particular plans for today other than find a campsite that was within cell range so that my two friends that were to meet me there early tomorrow would be able to reach me. (I ended up staying in a hotel because my lovely cell phone company didn’t have service at any of the camps) I was heading west on I-90 and before I even hit the South Dakota state line I saw them: The Wall Drug bill boards.
Anyone who has driven through South Dakota is familiar with the barrage of billboards listing what Wall Drug has to offer. If you have driven through South Dakota and haven’t seen them, I strongly advise you to contact both your eyecare professional and your psychiatrist about some sort of disorder. They are literally everywhere, probably at least one every half mile. There is even one billboard that tells you about a Wall Drug billboard located in Africa….Really?
It’s actually quite a good advertising scheme. They adverstise so many different items that you start thinking it might be a good place to get your supplies. I mean, they have almost everything according to the bill boards that one by one list off the products Wall Drug has in store. It worked for me…I stopped by to get some dinner supplies only to find they didn’t really have groceries. I actually managed to find my way out of the labyrinth that is Wall Drug without spending a penny.

The prarie of South Dakota along I-90. June 14, 2011

Between bill boards you have a beautiful inspiring landscape. As far as the eye can see is nothing but big, open prarie with rolling hills that slowly transition into the bad lands, the black hills and the mountains. It is a gorgeous view and one of those constant reminders how much I love being in the West. The East is great to visit, and they have a lot to offer both culturally and naturally, but the only place you can find this much land untouched is in the West.

South Dakota along I-90.

The West was the last frontier of the United States, and because of this large portions of land were able to be stowed away without settlement. The first National Park and the first National Monument (both I will visit in the next few days) were both in the west. The National and State parks of this area are world-renowned for unique beauty and inspirational vistas that can be seen nowhere else. The landscapes are as gorgeous as they are varied, the west claiming tall, young mountains that are still growing, and older ranges that have begun to erode. A beautiful coastline that ranges from rocky points to sandy sun-bathed beaches lines the Pacific coast. The praries can be vast and flat as can be, and turn into rolling hills and rising plateaus. There are the lush rainforests in the West so filled to the brim with plants and animals it appears as an alien planet, as well as dry deserts home to very few animals or plants.

The mountains here are tall enough in places to have snow and ice year round, and even hosts some of the remaining glaciers of the continental U.S.
The West has always been more of who I am. It is the place where I can take a deep breath and feel….free. For the next month and a half…I was home.
-Nicole

A dragonfly on the prarie in South Dakota. June 14, 2011
A storm rolling in at my hotel in Custer, SD. June 14, 2011