Day 13, Virginia: Shenandoah Valley & Natural Bridge Caverns

A valley that sits between the Blue Ridge and the Ridge & Valley parts of the Appalachian Mountains, Shenandoah is a gorgeous area full of rivers, farms, and most notably in my case, caves. Most of these caverns lie in the Beekmantown Formation of Ordovician age. Today was a chance to visit a cave of a different region to study it’s speleothem development, and to take in what Shenandoah Valley has to offer.
I had made a game plan for today and the next, but I decided to throw it out the window and go with the flow. I had no idea just how many caverns were in the area and I decided I would see at least two to get a better idea of this area’s karst development. The first cave I decided to see boasted the title of being the deepest cavern on the East coast: Natural Bridge Caverns.

The billboard at the entrance to Natural Bridge Caverns. Virginia. May 21, 2011

The cave tour wasn’t all that long, a guided tour through the caverns, and the cave wasn’t too highly decorated. Moss and bacteria covered many areas, including the limited speleothems that were present. It seems that this area is well known for the cave’s namesake, the Natural Bridge, and thus gains most of the company’s attention. Unfortunate because this cave could be a much better tour if they did a little preservation effort. The cave has two natural entrances, which may have explained the lack of speleothem development due to an increase in air flow.(Or perhaps the overlying lithology that is less permeable?)

The largest of the speleothems at Natural Bridge Caverns in Viriginia. May 21, 2011

I gathered my information and photos with scale from the cave, and more information to research later thanks to an incredibly helpful staff member behind the desk who answered my questions as honestly as he could, and admitted what he did not know. I always appreciate it when a cave tour guide admits they don’t know and offers a venue to obtain the information. The worst is when tour guides start making things up, and luckily this particular man (not my actual tour guide) of Natural Bridge Caverns was honest and helpful enough to do just that.

Some of the few soda straws in Natural Bridge Caverns. Virginia. May 21, 2011

After the cave it was time to do some country driving on my way to my KOA campsite. Shenandoah Valley is, after all, well known for it’s fantastic agricultural landscape nestled between the mountains. The view was gorgeous, rolling fields of green with the mountains standing against the sky in the background. I went to a grocery store to get something to cook at camp, having directions gained from my helpful KOA hostess. This was certainly the biggest grocery store I have ever seen. It was the size of a large Wal-Mart supercenter, yet it was all groceries! I had trouble locating my potatoes….until I realized they had their own section. The produce section of this grocery store is almost the size of the entire grocery store back in Missouri.

The KOA I stayed at for the night. I thought the sign was pretty. May 21, 2011. Shenandoah Valley, Virginia.

My campsite was pretty nice considering I am used to camping in State and National parks. KOA’s always have ample amenities thorughout the camp. My site was in a quiet, forested area near a small brook that trickled along. I was able to cook my food (while holding my breath, it turns out the Jalapenos from this monster of a grocery store were extra powerful and I couldn’t breath near my food while cooking..!!!) and settle down in front of my fire (which consisted of the fire starters, the logs never set….ha ha…) in peace and quiet.

My campsite at the Shenandoah Valley KOA (Firestarted burning, not the logs..ha ha!)

Tomorrow I plan to visit another cave of the Shenandoah Valley, and I have a couple ideas. I don’t know which one I’ll stop at for sure. Sometimes it’s best to play it by ear rather than have it planned. What I do know is that I will have fun no matter where I go. Adventurous spirits don’t find adventurous places, they find adventure everywhere, and anywhere, they go. Until tomorrow’s adventure-
Nicole

The grocery store even had a wide variety of different tomatoes. This was called the heritage tomatoe. It was tasty in my beef, potatoe, onion & jalapeno stir fry. May 21, 2011
The view on the way to my KOA campsite in Shenandoah Valley, Virginia. May 21, 2011

Day 12: Biltmore Estate, North Carolina

Travel is something of an addiction. After traveling to places of geologic, historic and cultural importance you find the desire to see more. Some people collect items, like model cars, stamps and coins. Traveling is a hobby of collection that is insatiable, there is so much to see and such a short life to see it in. So why would I want to return to some places, like the Biltmore, that I have already visited? It boils down to a simple fact: the travelers of the world collect memories.

The Biltmore Estate Home.Front facade. May 20, 2011

Often visiting something once simply isn’t enough because the place offers so much to experience. Memories come in many colors, whether it be gained knowledge, culture, experience, friendship and more we seek to add them into our mind banks. The Biltmore Estate is so much more than the largest home in America. It is one of the first successful lanscaping forestry projects, thousands of acres covered in local and exotic plants, a winery, a working farm, hiking trails, animals, shopping, gourmet foods and more. Every season, every year, is a differend experience. This year I went to visit with a good friend of mine who moved to North Carolina a few years ago and lived reasonably close to Asheville, the city created by the Biltmore Estate.

The baby goats at Biltmore Estate kept trying to eat my shoe laces. Only a few weeks old. May 20, 2011

The large home bulit by George Vanderbilt in the late 1800s, which takes up 4 acres of floor space (That’s 174, 240 square feet!!!!) is the center attraction of the 125,000 acre Biltmore Estate. Designed by Richard Morris Hunt (founder of the American Institute of Architects and designer of great works like the pedestal for the statue of liberty) the house took only 6 years to complete. A marvelous feat for a home that was so detailed, and the size of over 80 average sized homes combined!

The Nursery at Biltmore Estate. May 20, 2011

The grounds were designed by landscape architect Frederick Law Olmsted, the pioneer of American Landscape architectecture and forestry. There are gardens galore to walk through, a beautiful pond, a large, stately nursery and beautiful forested grounds. You could spend days looking at nothing by the grounds and still not see all of it, not to mention that it changes every season with different plants in bloom and different annuals in the ground/ in the nursery.

One of the many statues in the Italian Garden of the Biltmore Estate. May 20, 2011

The running of Biltmore Estate is a remarkable feat. A private home until 1956, the estate is one of the only self-sufficient National Historic Landmarks, receiving no grants or government funding to continue restoration and availability to the public. The admission fee is a little more expensive than many places, around $50, but there is simply so much to offer that it is well worth it. If you sign up for the newsletter you get discounts in an email. Three days before my visit to the Biltmore Estate I received an email offering 50% off admission price.
My friend and I were able to tour the house, where no photography is allowed, and then wander around the estate (all at our own pace). We both agreed that to truly drink in all the Biltmore Estate has to offer you would have to be here for several days. Every corner you turn there is something more to see. There is a hotel on the grounds you can stay at and I have often thought of spending a nice 4-day weekend here.

One of the numerous Hydrangeas at Biltmore Estate this time of year. I love anything that is blue. May 20, 2011

I absorbed as much of the Biltmore Estate as I could, and then we headed back home. Tomorrow was to be another day in the life of a traveler, and it was time to head north and visit a state I had never been to before, along with a new cavern in a geoologic province I had never been to before. Time to store this memory, and ready to collect more.

See you then,

Nicole

One of the many orchids in the nursery at Biltmore Estate. May 20, 2011
I have discovered that among the many plants I love, Gardenia is one of them. Someone buy me one? Biltmore Estate, May 20, 2011
Some flowers at the Biltmore Estate, May 20, 2011
One of the baby goats at the Biltmore Estate farm, trying to eat my camera case. May 20, 2011
The baby goats at the Biltmore Estate farm were just too cute!!! May 20, 2011
The Belgian horses of Biltmore Estate. May 20, 2011

Day 4, Part I: Oak Alley Plantation

The wonders of the world are often those that awe us in time. Those magnificent wonders that have been standing more years any of us can quite comprehend. It isn’t unusual to find geologic wonders of the world. The mere idea that you can gaze upon something so spectacular that was created over a span of millions of years is both difficult to wrap the mind around, and overwhelmingly joyful.

Not suprisingly, it isn’t as often to find something created by man that can achieve the same effect. Those objects that man create usually defy nature so blatantly that their time on this land, without constant care for generations, is usually short. If we see things such as this today they have been “restored” back to their original shape. They take constant care and maintenance to enjoy such a man made splendor. It is because of this that very few creations that weren’t a product of natural processes remain in their original state. Today I journeyed from Starkville, MS to Vacherie, LA so that I could personally see such a man-made wonder: Oak Alley plantation.

Looking back at the house from the end of Oak Alley. May 12, 2011. Vacherie, LA

While I absolutely love antebellum architecture, I am actually speaking of the trees when I refer to something that has held the test of time without any remodeling. These grand oak trees were planted by an unknown person in the early 1700s, and they have stood the test of time and guided the very splendor of the plantation itself. It turns out there is a way for man’s creation to stand the test of time without having to undergo restorative efforts after periods of neglect: use nature as the building material, canvass and structure all in one. Add nothing unnatural, simply guide what happens naturally.

The drive to Oak Alley wasn’t too eventful. I had been worried that I may have to change my Louisiana plans due to the flood waters that seemed to be chasing me down from Missouri. (I saw them on Day 2 in Arkansas and Memphis, TN) Luckily, I once again have just squeaked by as they don’t plan to open the flood gates until I will be out of the area. I took note of the Mississippi river as I passed over the bridge and had to circle back to drive along the closest road to the river on the Southern side, a road that rests many feet below the current level of the river on the other side of the levy. I saw many people stopping to take pictures of the river as it was slugging it’s way to the coast. Oak Alley faces the river, only a couple thousand feet from the levy, a line of stately, 300 year old oak trees leading the way from water to home.

The Mississippi at Oak Alley. See how close it is to the top of the levy? May 12, 2011

My visit to Oak Alley Plantation was lovely. I arrived in time for a late lunch, and went to the restaurant they keep on the property. I had the pleasure of enjoying a Mint Julep on the porch (to which I can now say I have done, and that I may not do again. I didn’t particularly care for the drink but it is something everyone should try once). For lunch I had a cajun seasoned crawfish on top of fried catfish, served with rice and corn. Everything had it’s own Louisiana spice to it, even the ranch dressing atop the small salad that was served before the meal had some cajun seasoning. The tables all had small flower vases with fresh roses in them, something I imagine they must refresh daily.

Mint Juleps at Oak Alley Plantation, May 12, 2011
My meal at Oak Alley Plantation Restaurant: Crawfish atop Catfish with rice and corn

The grounds themselves are as gorgeous as the antebellum house that stands center-attention of the oak trees. Large kettles, once used to boil the sugar cane, are now used as planters where water lillies are in bloom. The giant oak trees are covered in Resurrection moss, giving them their distinctive southern charm. The branches sweep down to the ground, and the roots are massive, erupting from the earth that contains them. Everything about these threes is organic except for one thing: Their perfect alignment into an “alley way” for visitors to traverse across the grounds to the grand home.

The old sugar boiling pots, now used as planters. May 12, 2011. Oak Alley in Vacherie, LA

The tour of the house itself is given by a guide in period-appropriate attire. As is common with many older houses with antique portraits, furniture and draperies, no photography is allowed inside the home to protect them from camera flashes (and I imagine a right to the use of the photos. Although Oak Alley Plantation is now run by a non-profit group, it takes a lot of money to keep something like this up and running. Selling rights to photograph and use their property for events is one of the ways they can fund this enormous task).

The Oak Alley Plantation Home. May 12, 2011

There are numerous outbuildings to visit, such as the garage that houses two Ford Model-As, the cemetary, gardens, a civl war historian booth, and more. It woudln’t be difficult to spend an entire day there, though I would recommend a visit during April or early May. The south gets quite hot and humid during the summer and you won’t be able to enjoy the property to it’s full potential with so many activities being outdoors.

Two Model As at the Oak Alley Plantation Garage

I haven’t looked at how many pictures I took while there, but I know they are up in the triple digits. The place is lovely to visit. It costs $18 to enter, which includes full access to the grounds and a tour of the home itself. If you chose to spend the entire day there, meals are very affordable ranging from $8-$16 for a plate. Drinks are a little more pricey (My Mint Julep, which is 3 parts bourbon and 1 part mint syrup, in a glass of crushed ice with a fresh mint sprig ran $6) but are still well under prices you would expect at any city bar. It’s a great place for good adult fun, I’d probably suggest not bringing your kids until they are old enough to enjoy history..quietly.

If you don’t mind a 45 minute drive, there is a fabulous state park that I decided to stay at following my visit to Oak Alley….In fact, it is so fabulous it is deserving of it’s own entry. Read “Day 4, Part II: Tickfaw State Park” to learn about this gem in the swamplands of Louisiana.

-Nicole

These dragonflies were all over the Oak Alley Plantation. May 12, 2011
Although you can't take pictures within the house, you are encouraged to take pictures from the balcony of the 2nd floor. May 12, 2011