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Day 33: Chicago- The City/Rural contrast

To many of us that live in more rural areas, cities look like they epitomize the opportunity for individuality. In small towns you can’t get away with brightly colored hair, dressing up on any day other than Sunday (unless a special occasion permits) or being loud and outspoken without feeling ostracized. In a big city people are not only permitted to do this in abudance, they can actually do so without criticism. There are simply so many people from so many different walks of life that no one has time to care, nor a right to judge.


Today I headed to one of those cities: Chicago. It isn’t the first big city I’ve been to. I visit Baltimore on occasion to see my cousin, and we also go to Washington D.C. I’ve been to Miami, I was born in the L.A. area and have been back many times to visit family, and Kansas City is a short drive away. Chicago wasn’t my first big city, but it was about to inspire a change in perception of big city living.

The view from the top of my friend's apartment building in Chicago. June 10, 2011

The drive to the city wasn’t too long, and I was lucky to have the company of my friend (who invited me to shoot off the cannon a few days prior) that had a conference to attend in Chicago starting the same day I would be arriving. 380 miles into the 475 mile drive we stopped at a gas station to fill up, both my Jeep and ourselves, and something very familiar was adorning the merchendise racks. The university I attend is fairly small, but nearly 400 miles away we found a pocket of university t-shirts, hats and other apparell. As I paid for my beverages I asked the cashier why he had this particular school’s items for sale, and he said a lot of people from around here go to that school. I would never have thought…
Driving in Chicago is something else. The GPS is all but worthless with streets being so close together, or often stacked on top of eachother, and the tall sky scrapers blocking the satellite signal. Parking is limited, and expensive. Before dropping my friend off near her conference location we decided to visit the towerplace mall. Parking was more expensive than what money we spend in the mall itself.

The "L", the best way to get around in Chicago. June 10, 2011

Then it was time for me to find my recently-Chicagan friend’s apartment. Parking overnight here would cost $25, and finding the place itself was a bit of an adventure. My GPS would think I was on a street one over than I was actually on, would lose signal often, and tell me to turn left where there was no road because it thought I was on the bottom road, not the top, of a layered street. I was incredibly thankful once I found the parking garage…even if it set off an annoying alarm when I pulled in.

Chicago June 10, 2011

Another friend of mine, who moved to the Chicago area several years ago, met up with us at my new Chicagan friend’s apartment and we headed out to explore the city. We visited Millenium Park, looked down at Grand Avenue from the top of his building, enjoyed gourmet popcorn, and then took the L to China town where we ate authentic Chinese food. The L was certainly the way to get around in Chicago. No stress of figuring out where to turn next, no parking fees, and best of all you can actually drink what you want to enjoy without having to worry about a D.D.

In front of the Art museum in Millenium Park, Chicago, June 10 2011

As I wandered the streets of Chicago with my friends I realized something. The people of the city aren’t necessarily free to be who they want, they are trying to express themselves since they can’t accomplish it in other ways. One of the biggest pieces of who I am, the vehicles I own and enjoy to drive, are things that many Chicagans simply can’t enjoy. It’s too expensive to drive, or for that matter park, anywhere. Gas is more expensive, apartments soar into the sky with little room for parking, and streets are crowded making travel inconvienent.

An alley in Chicago. June 10, 2011

The bold hair colors and wild clothes aren’t necessarily what these people want to portray, it’s just the only way to stand out in a crowd of thousands. How can anyone express their individuality in a sea of so many people? The subtleties are lost. Cities aren’t places where you are free to be yourself: They are places where you have to be loud for anyone to recognize who you are. While in small town culture you have to have subtle differences since everyone is so notieable, in a city you have to swing in the opposite direction, playing up every quality you want to be noticed.
Neither city nor rural area are above each other. I used to think that since I liked to dress up often, and since I had my own style, I would fit in better in city living. I have now discovered this isn’t true- driving is such an intergral part of my being that I would never be able to be myself in such a place. I had spent so much of my life, as many of us do, looking at the greener grass in the neighbors pasture. Suddenly I knew that I like right where I am. Life is good, and while I still plan on moving around to wherever my job takes me, I can be happy no matter where I am. The goal isn’t to dress down, or dress up, for anyone. I just do what I like, regardless what others think, and there is no place that can make you feel comfortable in that.
The thing in charge of your happiness is you.
-Nicole

The elusive elevator button I kept trying to get a clear pic of. Chicago, June 10 2011
The stage in Millenium Park, Chicago. June 10, 2011
Millenium Park, Chicago. The big videos of faces will spit water out at you. June 10, 2011
Art in Millenium Park. Chicago June 10, 2011
"The L" of Chicago. June 10, 2011
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Day 21: Driving thru Canada to Niagara Falls

As I had described on Day 15, what I share with you is only a small portion of what I do in a day. Going to so many places, so far away, involves a lot of driving. Today was another one of those days where driving was the main attraction of the day. This isn’t to say that a day of driving is anything less than exciting- it is more of a series of evens rather than one main event. Little things that add up to one whole experience.

Canadian Gas Prices (in liters) May 29, 2011

Driving through Canada was certainly different. The first noticeable difference on the road in Canada is that everything is in Km instead of Miles. Armed with a Tom Tom GPS unit, this conversion is made with just a couple clicks of the button. Another difference hits you when you stop at the gas station. The sign, at first, looks appealing: Only $1.21 for gas!!!! However, the gas is sold in liters, not gallons, and while right now the Canadian and U.S. dollar are almost par, the Canadian dollar does hold a slightly higher value. I calculate my gas mileage at every gas stop to make sure my Jeep is runnnig smoothly. Try calculating your MPG when you have filled up in liters and driven so many Km. Wouldn’t the world be so much easier if we all used the simple, countable and easily convertible metric system? I think so….

Maple sugar candies. Best enjoyed from Canada, in Canada. May 29, 2011

When I travel I try my hardest to always eat and drink items that are not necessarily available at home. I look for the drinks I have never heard of, the foods that are unique, or sometimes the items that are available back home but are notorious in the area. The following is a collection of a few of the items I have found along my way that are unique to the areas I enjoyed them in.
What have you found on your travels to be unique? Are these certain items that, when you go to a particular state or country, are a must-eat or drink? I look forward to hearing from everyone.
-Nicole

I decided to try a new beer when I arrived at my campsite in Ontario, Canada May 29, 2011
A coconut hershey's chocolate bar in Canada. Notice that the product labeling is required by law to be in both English and French. May 29, 2011
I had never seen this candybar before. Ontario, Canada May 29, 2011
While this is available almost anywhere, it seems to be fitting to drink it while in the country of it's origin. May 29, 2011
Apparently Cadbury makes more than the easter creme eggs. ...Alcohol, huh? It was yummy.
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Day 18: Relaxing in the Countryside, St. Lawrence County, New York State

Hummingbirds are amazing creatures that have captivated us for years. The feeders that are sold so that we can view these tiny birds up close are varietal and numerous, a staple for many homes within their habitat. The Ruby-throated hummingbird is one that most of North America is at least familiar with. The birds normally beat their wings around 65 times per second but can reach up to 200 beats per second. Their heart rate, and metabolism, are equally as impressive. They are incredibly fast yet they can be moving so fast and still in the air at the same time.

Hummingbird in St. Lawrence County, New York May 26, 2011

This quality makes the hummingbird unique, and a life lesson for all of us. The hummingbird can be both focused and expeditious at the same time, and still able to flit from place to place at speeds of over 30 mph when needed. These small birds captivated me as I sat on my relative’s porch in the country, watching them interact with each other around the nectar provided.

Hummingbird feeding in St. Lawrence County, NY May 26, 2011

Spending a day in the country was exactly what I needed. I had been running around to so many places, accomplishing so many goals, that I honestly felt like a hummingbird. I was exhausted and I needed to revitalize myself for some further exploration. In hummingbird lingo, I really needed to enter torpor. My relatives’ home (who cooks the best salmon dishes I’ve had to date) was far from the reaches of my cell reception and distractions, the perfect haven after being on the go for over 2 weeks.

St. Lawrence County, New York State. Goats, Horses, Cattle and more.
The horses running in a field in St. Lawrence County, New York

The countryside of St. Lawrence county rolls with green hills, dairy farms dotting the landscape. In the fields adjoining their property were horses, goats, cattle, geese and other domestic animals, as well as an abundance of wild animals including many beautifully-colored birds. Granite outcrops adorned the fields looking like round, gray elephants laying down for a nap. It was a beautiful view to take in.

A bright yellow bird (I forgot the name, help?) in St. Lawrence County, New York. May 26, 2011

I spent a long time sitting on the porches at the different bird feeders, mostly the hummingbird feeders, observing them interact with another. One hummingbird would lay claim to a feeder, and when it finished feeding it would find a good branch with a view of it’s feeder and watch to fend off the feeder from others of his kind that dared to take a drink. The hummingbird was never allowed to take an eye off it’s feeder, for every few minutes another would approach and they would zip through the air quarreling over nectar rights.

Ruby-throated Hummingbird in rural New York (St. Lawrence County) May 26, 2011

I couldn’t help but think to myself how amazing the hummingbirds were, to be able to move their wings so fast and stand still. It reminded me of myself as I watched them flit from place to place, each stop but a rapid action in space. I have many interests, and I try hard to be successful at everything I do. This means my attention is often divided, and I have to flit from place to place like the humming bird. This doesn’t mean I don’t accomplish much: I actually accomplish a lot. Even with all this movement I still have one main focus in life, my nectar that I feel compelled to place at the top in hierarchy.

A hummingbird drinking nectar in NY. May 26, 2011 (I had to turn the shutter speed way up to capture the wings...so it is dark. Any tips for a Nikon DSLR are appreciated.)

Life is a journey like that of the hummingbird’s flight. We move from place to place, working hard to achieve what we want, but still having that one feeder to claim as our niche in life. Even if we change feeders at one point in life, even several points, we always have that one thing that keeps us driven to do everything else that we require of ourselves. Make sure you accomplish this like the hummingbird: every second counts when life is so short (but not to forget that torpor is a necessity for life to go on…our metabolism can only go so long).
-Nicole

The goats playing in St. Lawrence County, New York May 26, 2011
Close-up of a goat in St. Lawrence County, New York May 26, 2011
A close-up of one of the Belgian horses in St. Lawrence County, New York May 26, 2011
Ruby-throated Hummingbird feeding in St. Lawrence County, NY. May 26, 2011
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Day 17: Maine to the Upstate NY Countryside

Even when thousands of miles away, you can feel as if you are only a few miles away from home. During this trip I have found myself in unfamiliar territory many times, in places that I hadn’t even done much prior research on. A few others I had been to once or more before and I knew what to expect. No matter where I was, near or far, I always found something that made it feel like home. You can been thousands of miles away from familiar territory, but since the world is so integrated it can feel like you are right next door.

Sitting on the coast of Kennebunkport, ME May 25, 2011

I was born on the west coast, and although I currently situate myself in Missouri I have found myself traveling to the Wild West many times, and it feels familiar to me. The East coast, notably the New England coast, has always been a whole new bird. Strange and different from the warm waters of the Pacific. It was in this strange land that I had ventured yesterday, and found myself gazing upon the waters in this morning.
It turns out that as many differences that the West coast and the East coast have, there are still some simliarities. What? Well the answer is perhaps so simple that it seems ridiculous to state it, but they are both coastal environments. They both offer that same salty air serenity that many of us crave as a vital piece to our mental well being. The sound of the waves crashing, the feel of the ocean spray in the air. Thousands of miles away from the golden coast and I felt like I was in the same place, especially as the sun was shining on a warm Spring day.

Kennebunkport, ME Morning of May 25, 2011

As I traveled west towards my destination for the night, a relative’s home in the country of upstate New York, I saw many things that made me feel like even less space was between I and my home. Many of the trees were similar to those of the midwest, agriculture dotted the land (although much sparser than that of the midwest), and road-kill deer littered the sides of the road. When I reached Lake Champlain it was flooded, much like the flooding of the midwest right now. Homes sat in a couple feet of water and fields looked like lakes, the water only a foot from the railways and roadbed. Was I really halfway across the continent?

The flooding of Lake Champlain, NY May 25, 2011

The differences were certainly more noticeable. The mountains were much taller, animal Xing signs warned not only of deer, but also moose and bear, roadway outcrops had more igneous and metamorphic rocks than sedimentary. Gas stations and restaurants of unfamiliar names appeared on highway signs and of what agriculture I did see it was predominantly livestock as opposed to crops. I was certainly in a different place, so why did I feel so close to home?
I think sometimes we spend so much time looking at the differences that we miss out on the similarities. We point out the items that stick out like a sore thumb to what we are accustomed to, focusing on them. We forget to acknowledge that all of these places, or people in some cases, are of the same world, same universe, and even the same matter. While travel is usually directed towards finding something different, perhaps we should also consider what is the same. I think our world would be a much better place if we all realized that every place, and every person, has something in common with another. Next door or thousands of miles away, our lives are intricately woven together in this universe.
What we do today can have effects on others for years to come. Whether it be an action, a voiced opinion, or a product of our creative mind, we all have an input on the way the world revolves. Each of us has a part to play in this small world, each of us our strengths and weakensses. It is up to us to determine what role we can play best to contribute. Even though we all have our unique attributes, we are all of the same place- we should never forget that.
-Nicole

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Day 12: Biltmore Estate, North Carolina

Travel is something of an addiction. After traveling to places of geologic, historic and cultural importance you find the desire to see more. Some people collect items, like model cars, stamps and coins. Traveling is a hobby of collection that is insatiable, there is so much to see and such a short life to see it in. So why would I want to return to some places, like the Biltmore, that I have already visited? It boils down to a simple fact: the travelers of the world collect memories.

The Biltmore Estate Home.Front facade. May 20, 2011

Often visiting something once simply isn’t enough because the place offers so much to experience. Memories come in many colors, whether it be gained knowledge, culture, experience, friendship and more we seek to add them into our mind banks. The Biltmore Estate is so much more than the largest home in America. It is one of the first successful lanscaping forestry projects, thousands of acres covered in local and exotic plants, a winery, a working farm, hiking trails, animals, shopping, gourmet foods and more. Every season, every year, is a differend experience. This year I went to visit with a good friend of mine who moved to North Carolina a few years ago and lived reasonably close to Asheville, the city created by the Biltmore Estate.

The baby goats at Biltmore Estate kept trying to eat my shoe laces. Only a few weeks old. May 20, 2011

The large home bulit by George Vanderbilt in the late 1800s, which takes up 4 acres of floor space (That’s 174, 240 square feet!!!!) is the center attraction of the 125,000 acre Biltmore Estate. Designed by Richard Morris Hunt (founder of the American Institute of Architects and designer of great works like the pedestal for the statue of liberty) the house took only 6 years to complete. A marvelous feat for a home that was so detailed, and the size of over 80 average sized homes combined!

The Nursery at Biltmore Estate. May 20, 2011

The grounds were designed by landscape architect Frederick Law Olmsted, the pioneer of American Landscape architectecture and forestry. There are gardens galore to walk through, a beautiful pond, a large, stately nursery and beautiful forested grounds. You could spend days looking at nothing by the grounds and still not see all of it, not to mention that it changes every season with different plants in bloom and different annuals in the ground/ in the nursery.

One of the many statues in the Italian Garden of the Biltmore Estate. May 20, 2011

The running of Biltmore Estate is a remarkable feat. A private home until 1956, the estate is one of the only self-sufficient National Historic Landmarks, receiving no grants or government funding to continue restoration and availability to the public. The admission fee is a little more expensive than many places, around $50, but there is simply so much to offer that it is well worth it. If you sign up for the newsletter you get discounts in an email. Three days before my visit to the Biltmore Estate I received an email offering 50% off admission price.
My friend and I were able to tour the house, where no photography is allowed, and then wander around the estate (all at our own pace). We both agreed that to truly drink in all the Biltmore Estate has to offer you would have to be here for several days. Every corner you turn there is something more to see. There is a hotel on the grounds you can stay at and I have often thought of spending a nice 4-day weekend here.

One of the numerous Hydrangeas at Biltmore Estate this time of year. I love anything that is blue. May 20, 2011

I absorbed as much of the Biltmore Estate as I could, and then we headed back home. Tomorrow was to be another day in the life of a traveler, and it was time to head north and visit a state I had never been to before, along with a new cavern in a geoologic province I had never been to before. Time to store this memory, and ready to collect more.

See you then,

Nicole

One of the many orchids in the nursery at Biltmore Estate. May 20, 2011
I have discovered that among the many plants I love, Gardenia is one of them. Someone buy me one? Biltmore Estate, May 20, 2011
Some flowers at the Biltmore Estate, May 20, 2011
One of the baby goats at the Biltmore Estate farm, trying to eat my camera case. May 20, 2011
The baby goats at the Biltmore Estate farm were just too cute!!! May 20, 2011
The Belgian horses of Biltmore Estate. May 20, 2011
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Dedication: Day 9 Georgia, Watson Mill Bridge State Park

Nothing worthwhile is achieved without great effort. How you can determine how truly dedicated you are to a cause is by evaluating how long you are willing to try before giving up. Working hard really does pay off, whether it be the intended result or not. Sometimes the result is even better.

The Geology Dept. Banner at the University of Georgia. May 17 2011

Today I slept in a little, with a drive of only 4 hours planned for the day. I was going to head from Savannah Georgia to Athens, Georgia, the hometown of one of my graduate school hopefuls. I had been emailing one of the higher up faculty there in hopes of meeting them while I was here, but unfortunately both of the gentlemen I had been talking to were going to be gone during this part of the summer. Since I had still planned on being in the area I figured it would still be worth a campus visit so I could at least see the campus, the geology building, and the town of Athens and get a feel for the area.

The Hydrangea at the University of Georgia. May 17, 2011

I arrived in Athens about 3pm, and after finding a visitor parking area, I wandered around the campus (with guidance from the campus map board that was stationed near my parking garage). The University of Georgia is quite larger than what I am used to navigating. I don’t know how big Athens really is, but I’m pretty sure that the U of G consumes almost all of it. The campus is really pretty, well landscaped with local plants like blue hydrangea, lilies, and various trees. Every nook and cranny between buildings is well landscaped to include benches and gathering places. It seems no matter where you go you would feel like you have found your own personal oasis. Perhaps this is because it is summer and most of the students and faculty are absent, but I’d like to pretend it is like this all year around.

I dont know why I take a picture of the university stadiums, I don't really follow college sports. None-the-less, here is the University of Georgia's stadium. May 17, 2011

I found the shared Geology/Geography building with little difficulty. The building was open so I went in and wandered. As with all schools, everything was clearly labeled, and those that weren’t were easy to distinguish. The floor with the rocks was the geology floor. The floor with the giant globe would be the geography floor….in general. I was reading the directory and then looking at some pictures when I noticed a familiar name on one of them. It was the very man who was coauthor of the research the man I had been communicating with published. Not even two minutes later I see a walking image of the picture I had just been examining, so I stop and ask if it was indeed him.

The Geography/Geology building at the University of Georgia. May 17, 2011

I had caught him at a perfect time, he says. He was just wandering the building, bored, and considering visiting the library to do some mindless reading. He would be more than happy to show me around and talk to me about what the University of Georgia has to offer. We sat and talked about speleothems from different parts of the world for a time, and then he showed me some of the research they were doing now, opening up the labs and showing me specimens. He told me what type of TA and RA offers they typically make- most of the information I need to know to make a solid decision. I was incredibly lucky to have met him, as he is well known in the field. I had considered for a short moment not visiting the campus since the two men I had been communicating with weren’t going to be there, but I was still determined to get as much information as I can. It turns out the determination paid off, well. That makes 2 grad school potentials down, only 3 more to visit to get a good idea of who offers what.

Some of the local produce I picked up at a roadside fruit stand in Georgia. May 17, 2011
The white peaches I got, first of the season, from a local produce stand in Georgia. May 17, 2011

After my visit with the University of Georgia I headed off to my next campsite: Watson Mill Bridge State Park. On the way to Athens to visit the University of Georgia I had stopped by a local fruit stand and picked up some local produce. I purchased 4 1st-of-the-season white peaches (grown from the standowners orchards), 1 ripe tomato, 1 vidalia onion (from Vidalia, GA, so the real deal), and a few potatoes- all for about $3. You can’t beat that. After stopping by a grocery store to pick up some sausage to slice up, and the leftover jalepeno from my cajun hobo dinner I cooked in Gulf State Park on Day 5, I had a really good dinner in the making.

My tasty dinner made of local produce (and a jalepeno and sausage). May 17, 2011 Watson Mill Bridge State Park Georgia

It turns out the park was absolutely gorgeous. I yet again had chosen the best park I could have in the area. The campsites were large, and the entire area was less than half occupied, there was a quaint wooden covered bridge, the nucleus of the park itself, and trails, waterfalls and more. I had to cook dinner and then eat it while walking on the trails I was so excited to experience them before dark.

My campsite at Watson Mill Bridge State Park in Georgia. May 17, 2011

The place stimulates each of the five senses: The smell of warm cedar. The sound of falling water. The sight of stone mill ruins and a covered bridge. The taste of camp cooked food. And the feel of a cooler, forested climate. It all added up to the fact that I had made the transition from the humid, warm south (which I did love) to the beginnings of the Appalachian Mountains. I was still in the state of Georgia, but something had clearly changed.

The old Mill Ruins you can find if you walk along the trails at Watson Mill State Park in Georgia. May 17, 2011

I couldn’t get enough of the park. I had planned the next day to be leisurely so I stayed there until almost check out time, taking pictures and relaxing in the canopy of the cedars and other trees. I was tempted to stay there another night, but I had already planned to visit another well-acclaimed state park up in South Carolina: Devil’s Fork State Park. I am determined to experience as much of America as I can on this trip, and my dedication had paid off today- It will certainly pay off tomorrow.  I’ll see you there-

Nicole

The covered bridge that crosses the river that runs over a lot of granitic rocks. May 17, 2011 at Watson Mill Bridge State Park
Taking pictures of Watson Mill Bridge in Northern Georgia. May 17, 2011
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Luck: Day 8 Part I, St. Augustine, Florida

Luck. It’s one of those whimsical ideas that is often tied to symbolic findings like a four-leaf clover and a bird that drops a little present on your head in flight. Something many don’t truly believe in, yet so many people seem to have it. The Spanish appear to have had luck when they stumbled upon St. Augustine, the lighthouse of the same settlement seems to have had tremendous luck, and even I have had many good hands dealt my way. Luck- Could it be real?

I got up early this morning, a busy day of sightseeing on the books, and headed to the only WiFi access point in Anastasia State Park, located at the beach shop. I settled down in the rising sun with my laptop, uploading pictures of the previous day for all of you to enjoy, when I noticed a few people collecting at the beach. One man was sitting up at the beach overlook deck with a camera on a tripod, and a few people were trickling their ways onto the beach. They weren’t wearing beach attire, nor was it warm enough to swim if they had been. I dismissed it as a group family photo in the making and went about my business. Soon more people began to show up, all toting their DSLR cameras and chatting a little too lively for such an early hour on the east coast. Then someone approached me: “Are you going to watch the shuttle launch?”.

The launch of Shuttle Endeavour as viewed from Anastasia State Park Beach. May 16, 2011.

I almost leapt out of my seat- could it really be that today was the day that they launched the space shuttle Endeavour? It turns out it certainly was- and I was close enough to Cape Canaveral to see if from my vantage on the beach. I was totally unprepared to take such a photograph, so the few that I did get aren’t all that great- but I did get them, and I did get to see it launch. Many thought this was the last launch of the shuttle Endeavour, but according to news articles this was the next-to-last.

If you guys are really hard core about seeing the shuttle launch keep updated on the real “last launch”. Maybe you can find a way to venture out there? Even if you can’t get down to Cape Canaveral, you now know of a great place to camp out and view it from: Anastasia State Park. According to the volunteer who stands atop St. Augustine Lighthouse once a week, this launch view wasn’t as good as it usually is due to some haze. He has been living in St. Augustine since the 1980s, and hasn’t missed a launch since. He even got to work early so he could view the launch from atop the lighthouse. If you are lucky enough, perhaps you can watch the last ever launch of Endeavour from atop the lighthouse.

The St. Augustine Lighthouse. May 16, 2011. Every lighthouse has it's own distinct scheme so that ships can recognize where they are.
Climbing up isn't bad, it's climbing down that makes me nervous everytime. St. Augustine Lighthouse.

The St. Augustine Lighthouse was my first planned trip of the day. I had already visited the lighthouse once, but it is something worth seeing again. The current lighthouse stands 165’ high and has been standing there since 1874. It is built of brick and steel, both crafted here in the U.S., and is the oldest standing brick structure of St. Augustine. When you visit you have to climb 219 stairs to reach the top (sound exhausting, it is!).

A small sample of the stairs of St Augustine Lighthouse. May 16, 2011
The stairs are very pretty to look at. St. Augustine Lighthouse May 16, 2011

Many Florida lighthouses had a lot of trouble staying upright: the soft sands of the coast proved to be a less-than-stable base for the heavier lighthouses of the late 1800’s. St. Augustine has a sturdy layer of coquina for the lighthouse to sit atop, keeping it from the same fate of many other lighthouses in the state. The lighthouse has had several close calls, such as Hurricane Dora and a few other hurricanes, and a couple earthquakes. Fortunately (and perhaps luckily?) the St. Augustine lighthouse has stood tall. (Visit their website at www.staugustinelighthouse.com)

This funny mirror was on the ground. It made for a neat vantage point for a picture. St. Augustine Lighthouse May 16, 2011
The view of Castillo de Sand Marcos as you drive past. May 16, 2011. St. Augustine Florida

It was now time to see to the Castillo de San Marcos, the oldest masonry fort in the continental U.S. Built by the Spanish beginning in 1671, the fort was something to be feared by many enemies. In 1702 British naval & land forces attacked St. Augustine and a not-yet-completed Catillo de San Marcos. The British destroyed the city, but were unable to take on the fort and retreated. In 1728 British troops once again decided to march into St. Augustine, but saw the fort and promptly turned around and left. In 1740 the British governor of Georgia also attacked St. Augustine, but could not capture the fort.

The view of the entrance of Castillo de San Marco when standing atop the fort. May 16, 2011. St. Augustine, FL.

Why was the fort so impenetrable? Was it because of the architectural layout or the cannons? Probably this, and due to the building material provided to the Spanish from Anastasia island, the very rock that the St. Augustine lighthouse stood upon many years later: Coquina.

Close-up of a coquina block at the quarry. St. Augustine, FL Anastasia S.P. May 16, 2011

Geology time: So what is this coquina stuff, anyways? Literally “coquina” translates from Spanish to “tiny shellfish”. Aptly named, coquina is a type of limestone composed of shells, clay and sand that have been chemically bonded together. It may look brittle, but trust me when I say the stuff is tuff, I tested a block of it. So, where did it come from?

The coquina quarry (A historic site) in Anastasia S.P. St Augustine, FL May 16, 2011

Luckily my campsite hosts the spot where the Spanish started quarrying the coquina in 1671. I was able to visit it and learn a bit about the geology of the area. In the Pleistocene epoch there were a series of glaciation/melting patterns that allowed shells, clay and sand to accumulate during the high sea levels, and to cement together when it was exposed to rainwater during times of low sea levels. This developed the Anastasia formation, a formation that stretched from the Northern end of Anastasia Island all the way south to Palm Beach, FL (250 miles long) and is about 330 miles wide, most of it stretching into the Atlantic Ocean.

The wall built of shells. The coquina blocks of the Castillo de San Marco.

The coquina is a very strong rock when dry, so to cut it the Spanish settlers would cut the stone while it was wet, and then allow it to dry for up to a year before incorporating it into the Castillo. It was such a useful building product that one third of St. Augustine’s buildings were made of it by 1764. The Spanish were very (lucky, perhaps?) to have such a building material readily available.

It seems that in the case of my observation of shuttle Endeavour, the long-standing life of St. Augustine Lighthouse and the Spanish settler’s find of the coquina to build the Castillo all speak for the case of luck. It must be real, then…Luck has it. Right?

Let’s look back on the reality of the situation. St. Augustine Lighthouse was built in 1874 to replace a Spanish watchtower built in the late 1500’s. The old watch tower tumbled to the sea in a storm in 1880. It stood for 300 years, a span of time yet to be proven by the “New” St. Augustine Lighthouse. The Castillo de San Marcos was built beginning in the 1670s to replace the 9th (yes, you read right, NINTH!) fort since 1565. It seems that all of these events add up to being in the right place at the right time. It may seem like luck, but it is actually due to ingenuity and being able to see the bright side of things no matter what. The Spanish and other settlers of St. Augustine were smart enough to use what was available to them on their very own Anastasia island, buried beneath the sand dunes and soil (called hammocks). We all know I have had my fair share of mishaps- and the fact that I was able to see something as spectacular as the shuttle launch isn’t due to luck: It is due to my dedication to adventure and putting myself in places where things can, and will, happen.

If you are sitting around waiting for your luck to turn around you aren’t going to get much. Luck isn’t a rabbit’s foot on a keychain or eating black eyed peas on New Year’s Day. Luck is constructed out of your own determination and will. Created by you, for you, by continuing to push forward even after you fail again and again. Don’t let the first 9 fallen forts force you to give up. Look around you, use the tools you have been given, and manifest your own destiny.

Some colorful beetles (or something of the like) at the coquina quarry in Anastasia S.P. May 16, 2011
Chocolates from Whetstone Chocolates of St. Augustine. I had a small snack from here- I was saving my calories (and my money) for a fabulous dinner in Savannah tonight. May 16, 2011
Whetstone Chocolates of St. Augustine. Very good stuff. They even have chocolate dipped bananas, a personal fave.
I'm standing in the watch tower of the Castillo de San Marco. May 16, 2011
The view down a canon if you were getting ready to take down an enemy ship at the Castillo de San Marco in st. Augustine
The sanctuary at Castillo de San Marco, the font on the wall and the altar on the left side of the pic. May 16, 2011
While I toured the Castillo de San Marco National Park officials took precautions to preserve artifacts by vacuumn air out of a case to reduce humidity. May 16, 2011
Where the men would sleep at Castillo de San Marco while on duty (They didn't live at the fort)
Some of the lighthouse prisms at St. Augustine Lighthouse (when you get to the top and are looking at the light, look up!)
I'm about to ascend all of those stairs- all 219 of them! May 16, 2011 St. Augustine Lighthouse
I climbed all the way to the top of St. Augustine Lighthouse…again! May 16, 2011
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Day 6: Gulf State Park & Tampa-area, Florida

Day 6: Gulf State Park and Tampa-area, Florida

Although I tried to schedule most of my trip not have a full day’s worth of driving, there are a few parts where I couldn’t avoid this. Today is one of those days, as I had a 9 hour drive from Gulf State Park to a family friend’s house just North of Tampa. Although the drive was long, it is important to remember that it is less about the destination and more about the journey. This trip, all 14,000 miles of has no singular destination. It is a journey. An adventure that doesn’t end when I arrive at a place I call home. It will enlighten, educate, culture and inspire me for the rest of my life.

May 14, 2011 at Gulf State Park Campgrounds, AL- The dock at the lake

 

I took one last look over the lake at the Gulf State Park campgrounds before I left for the day. I was soon to find out there is much more to Gulf State Park than what I saw at the campgrounds. Beaches line the highway as you start heading east towards Florida. They are your beautiful sand-dune trimmed beaches with white sand and wood picket and wire fences to keep troublesome tourists from trampling the dunes and the sea oats. It was beautifully sunny, so I had taken the top on my Jeep down again after faring the rains of Louisiana. I was certainly enjoying the sunny rays of the sunshine state when I crossed state lines.

One of the several Gulf State Park beachers. May 14, 2011
There's something beautiful about the weather-worn sea fences.... Gulf State Park Beach May 14, 2011

Driving along I-10 there were several rainstorms I passes through, including one thunderstorm. Something amazing takes place when you are driving on the interstate going 70 mph: Most of the rain just sweeps right over you. I had to use a towel to wipe off the inside of the windshield a few times, but I was having the time of my life- both because of how refreshing it felt to smell the rain and experience the storm without getting soaked, and observing all the strange looks I got from other drivers along I-10.

The abundant spanish moss that covers trees in the South. (In this case, Florida near Tampa)
Orange trees in Florida, near Tampa

As I headed south along I-75, and then along a county road, I started seeing more of the stereotypical Florida: Large trees draped with Spanish moss and orange trees both in groves and randomly dotting the side of the highway. I met up with family friends, who treated me to a dinner at Ruby Tuesday, and then we chatted around the TV about all sorts of things. It turns out one of them makes some spectacular soap, homemade of goats milk. If you are looking for some great organic soaps, visit www.simplycaprine.com. They also make quite a few other products, all organic and made by hand.

One of the many organic products offered by simplycaprine, out of Florida

Florida is a very large state, with a transition that you can experience if driving from the northern part to the southern tip. It starts as a stereotypical “deep south” climate, as I just described, to a palm-tree covered tropical environment surrounded by the bright blue Caribbean. I may have only been able to experience the driving of Florida today (and the hospitality of local friends) but tomorrow I get to drive across the state to its eastern coast, to stay in a place I absolutely adore: St. Augustine.

Me, at the dock at the lake of Gulf State Park Campgrounds, AL. May 14, 2011

 

 

The view of the beach dunes on the drive from Gulf State Park to Florida. May 14, 2011

 

The boardwalk to one of the several Gulf State Park beaches.
Watching the waves crash is so soothing. A Gulf State Park Beach (Alabama), May 14, 2011
My Jeep, "29", enjoying the drive through Florida.
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Day 4, Part II: Tickfaw State Park

There are many reasons I chose to camp instead of staying in a hotel on my travels. First and foremost, camping is FAR cheaper than any hotel room. Campsites may be a bargain way to travel, but they also offer much more in experiences than any hotel room could ever offer. Not only is each campsite unique, but every night at a campsite is unique since everything revolves around nature. One night you may see all of the stars and a bright moon, and the net night may be cloudy but you were able to take a long leisurely walk on a boardwalk through the swamp, seeing little spotted rabbits, bright yellow birds, dueling lizards and more. Camping is more finding a place to sleep-it’s another facet to your journey. Some camps are better than others, just as some hotels are dirtier than others (but at least with camping you get to sleep in your own bag- you KNOW that’s sanitary). Tickfaw State Park turned out to be a hidden jewel in the camping world, and I am more than happy to share what I have found.

The Swamp along a trail at Tickfaw State Park

Tickfaw State Park lies on the northern end of Maurepaus lake in Louisianna, a 30 minute drive to the French Quarter if you are planning on visiting the area. They have cabins, group camping sites, RV sites and “unimproved” tent sites. I obviously chose the later and took the unimproved tent site, which charges $12/night plus a $6 processing fee. The camping sites are each nestled in a private alcoved of trees, at least giving you the illusion that you are camping alone.

The suspension bridge over the Tickfaw river on one of the many trails at Tickfaw S.P. May 12, 2011

This alone would have made me a “happy camper” ( Where DOES that phrase originate and why do we use it for everything?) but it turns out the camp has a lot more. It has miles of hiking trails, both along perfectly maintained boardwalks and (if you venture deeper) along wild trails through the wilderness. It has an informative nature center, a water park for the kids (or the kid inside you), a regular park, numerous picnick pavilions, a view of it’s namesake river, the Tickfaw river, from a walking suspension bridge, clean showers and bathrooms, and more!

Tickfaw State Park May 12, 2011. One of the trails.

I found many things that aren’t even listed on the park’s map, such as the “Mother tree” nestled only a few yards off the road alond a dirt path. I saw lots of wildlife like brightly colored birds, multiple types of rabbits, some type of lizards, colorful grasshoppers, lots of blue and green dragonflies, and more. I even caught these two reptiles doing….well…I’m not sure what they are doing, you look at the series and tell me!

Two reptiles at Tickfaw. I don't know the species and genus, if you do please comment and let me know! May 12, 2011
One of them changed colors. Reptiles at Tickfaw S.P. May 12, 2011
Close up of the two fighting. May 12, 2011

I felt like I was in my own personal haven for most of the night, not seeing many other campers at all. Perhaps the flood waters had scared them all away? Or maybe I really had found a wonderful oasis that is hidden from everyone. Either way, it was just the way I like camping to be. If you ever plan on visiting this area of Louisiana I recommend this place as your campsite of choice. You won’t regret it.

Tomorrow I will be heading further east, after enjoyig a beautiful morning in the French Quarter, and I will be staying at another campsite. Will the next one match up to Tickfaw State Park? Until then…

-Nicole

The trailhead of Hurricane Cut Thru at Tickfaw S.P. May 12, 2011
The waterpark at Tickfaw S.P. May 12, 2011
A closeup of the dumping buckets at the waterpark of Tickfaw S.P. May 12, 2011
Apparently these guys are just all over Louisiana this time of year. Tickfaw State Park, May 12, 2011
One of the many small gems you can find throughout Tickfaw state park, not even listed on the map. May 12, 2011
The blackberries are already ripening down in Louisiana. May 12, 2011 Tickfaw State Park.
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A Water World: Day 2, Arkansas to Mississippi

Day 2: Arkansas to Mississippi
Water is the most vital thing to life. Not only do we need it for our very survival, but we find it comforting. Millions of us flock to places of aqueous views, and whether we live there or not we all find it calming. The seas, lakes, rivers, waterfalls and springs dominate our culture. Most of our major cities are built near waterways. Water is the essence of our being.

Petit Jean State Park May 10, 2011

Today my friend took me to a place that exemplifies our fascination with water: Petit Jean State Park in central Arkansas. It is a beautiful place full of hiking trails and history, built by the Civilian Conseration Corps starting in 1933, during the Great Depression. Rich in history, and geology, it’s most stunning (and most visited) attraction is a 90′ waterfall that cascades into Cedar Creek Canyon.

Petit Jean State Park-Cedar Falls. The first view when walking up. May 10, 2011

The walk to Cedar Falls isn’t too long, only 2 miles from trailhead to the falls, but it is pretty vigourous. The first 1/2 mile that descends more than 200 feet, climbing down steps made from local rocks by the C.C.C., isn’t the hard part: It’s climbing back up later. I enjoyed it a lot, as sitting in a vehicle for long drives doesn’t offer a lot of exercise so I love to get what I can.
The geology of the area was unknown to me when I entered the park, but I started making some assumptions. My first clue were the trees, many of them obviously several hundred years old, that had grown on top of the rock rubble.

A tree growing on top of a fallen rock. Petit Jean State Park May 10, 2011

The area suggest to me a collapse of a large karst area several hundred thousand years ago. Now, everyone knows how I LOVE karst, so perhaps I try to see it in everything I visit. So, I decided to look it up when I got to camp where I would have wireless internet. Here is what I found:
It turns out that this area was not karst, but it did undergo a similar process as the sinkholes that take place in the carbonates of Missouri and Kentucky. What happened to these sandstone rocks is that the shale, softer and less resistant than the sandstone, was eroded by the water faster and left little support for the sandstone, causing the rocks to tumble. This area is in a big syncline called the Pontoon syncline. For more info on the geology of the area, go to http://www.geology.arkansas.gov/pdf/Geology%20of%20Petit%20Jean%20State%20Park.pdf

 


I really enjoyed the falls. There is something absolutely serene being in the presence of moving water. You can feel it in the air, and everything seems right with the world. I owe a huge thanks to my friend who took pictures of me, and taught me how to use a lot of the functions on my camera. I am extremely lucky to have a friend who is also interested in photography and we had a great time taking pictures at the falls. She was a gracious host as well and I couldn’t have chosen a better place to start my grand journey! We will have to go camping again soon.
In the afternoon it was time to leave Arkansas and head towards Mississippi. Upon driving EB along I-40 I saw exactly how you can have too much of a good thing. White, Cache, L’Anguille, St. Francis, and Mississippi are all names of rivers, but today they were lakes. At one point the water was so high it was approaching the roadway, and had already risen over the roadway on the WB side. I was lucky enough to squeak by on the EB lanes. They hadn’t closed them, but I imagine if the water isn’t yet receeding they would have had to do so.

Flooding in AR along I-40 5/10/11
The water breached the WB lanes of I-40. 5/10/11
The water, almost level with the roadway, along the EB lanes of I40 in AR. 5/10/11

The Mississippi river took over a large portion of Memphis, reclaiming property that once belonged to the flood plain. Locals had taken over exit ramps as boating ramps, and they lined the new coastline with fishing poles. A few roofs poked out through the water in places.
It is important to remember that many things are vital to our lives, in so many ways, yet there still needs to be moderation. There is a such thing as too much, even of a thing so essential as water. Sometimes we don’t have control over what amount of a good thing we are dealt, but we can decide to use it wisely, and learn from every  moment we get.
The drive through Mississippi was wonderful. I was racing the sun to get to my campsite, the top down on the Jeep, the aromas of pine and honeysuckle breezing through my nose. Mississippi, so far, is a pretty nice looking state. I’ll let you know more about it after I do some more exploring of The Magnolia State tomorrow. Until then-
-Nicole

These flowers were all over Petit Jean State Park when I was there 5/10/11
The stone steps, carved by the CCC, at Petit Jean S.P. 5/10/11
This is me, taking pictures at Petit Jean S.P. in Arkansas (photo courtesy of my friend, Jennifer)

 

Me, taking a pictureof Cedar Falls at Petit Jean S.P. 5/10/11 (Photo courtesy of my friend, Jennifer)