It has been a while…. a long while… since I have posted here. After my trip in 2011 I finished my degree in geology and continued on to grad school. After grad school I found myself in a pretty dark place. We all have our demons to fight, mostly manifested by our own minds. I certainly had my fair share. Between battling depression, losing my Jeep due to mechanical/financial issues, and leaving academia I was lost. I was honestly in some of the darkest days of my life. I had lost the inspiration to do the things that made me happy.
Interestingly enough my brightest days occur in the darkest places on our plant. Places with no light at all. Caves.
I moved back to Missouri in 2017 after being gone for about 5 years. I now work in a cave. I go caving as much as I can. I got a new Jeep and started traveling again. I teach geology at a local community college. Life is good.
Now that I’m back in the darkest place on Earth, I am looking forward to the brightest time of my life. I hope to bring you new updates soon as the inspiration continues to build.
To all of my friends, family and fellow cavers: Thank You. Without you I would be lost. You know who you are.
States (and Provinces) Covered: 39 states 1 province (MO,AR,TN,MS, LA, AL, FL, GA, SC, NC, VA, MD, PA, NY, MA, NH, ME, VT, ON, WV, OH, IN, KY, IL, IA, WI, MN, SD, WY, MT, ID, WA, OR, CA, NV, AZ, TX, NM, CO, KS )
Why & Where Did I Go On This Trip?
This is the Grand Adventure tour, of which I call “Caves, Waves & Future Paves”. Aptly named, as the goals of this 75 day tour were to: a) visit potential grad schools b)collect data, photos and other information from a broad spectrum of caves throughout the U.S. for my own research and c) to relax among the worlds wonders (including friends, family, mountains, canyons, geologic marvels, coastlines and, of course, caves). It was a life changing and inspiring journey that I want to share with everyone so that you also feel empowered to travel. I have long believed that the most successful education involves hands-on, in-person experiences, and this is it! Starting out in Missouri I did two loops: My Eastern loop, a short 3 day stop at home, and then my Western loop. (See Map Below)
I think my pictures speak for themselves why I prefer to visit the great outdoors than visiting the concrete jungles. The great expanse of the “wild” west makes any person feel insignificant, and appreciative, of the world. Yet here I find myself today in the concrete jungle, visiting my brother and taking time to see one of my favorite California beaches, Santa Monica. I was born very close by and so this is where it all started for me. Surprisingly, where it all started for Santa Monica was a natural beauty.
The popular National Landmark, Santa Monica Pier. July 5, 2011
It all started for Santa Monica with a natural spring that was used by humans dating back before the transition of B.C. to A.D. in year keeping. The area was sacred to natives and, like most of our country’s geography, was taken over by pioneers. Today Santa Monica sits at the western end of one of the most iconic trails of concrete in the U.S.: Route 66.
The western end of Rt 66. July 5, 2011The Promenade in Santa Monica, CA. July 5, 2011
It is hard to believe there is anything left of nature when walking through the shopping districts of Santa Monica. The Promenade is full of stores selling t-shirts for a couple hundred dollars and expensive couture labels. I spent some time window shopping in the area (certainly not spending any money on the ridiculously overpriced merchandise) and then headed back to the beach. Although surrounded by concrete and people the beach is the one place that is difficult to get away from the beauty that has always been here. Looking down the coast you can’t help but soak in the view of the mountains in the distance with the waves crashing in front of you. The pier, of course, offers my favorite local snack, a churro. Mmmm. Of course if you’ve read any of my previous journeys (like my 2009 visit) you already know my love of churros.
Churros on Santa Monica Pier
Despite being surrounded by the concrete jungle if you close your eyes as the sun sets and the beachgoers leave to prepare for their nighttime activities you can focus in on the waves and imagine visiting a few hundred years ago when concrete was a thing of the future. The concrete all came to be because of the beauty of nature that was here before. Some of it is hidden between the walls of commerce and population but it always ends at the beach. As long as you keep looking west you can see what beauty inspired so many people to flock here, even before we colonized America…
Let’s see what I can get into tomorrow…
Nicole
Santa Monica Beach July 5, 2011The flowers were in bloom on the Promenade in Santa Monica. July 5, 2011
America was “discovered” during the era of exploration. Western civilization had become fascinated with finding the last frontier. While the Fourth of July is meant to be a holiday to celebrate our independence as a country it seemed fitting to spend my holiday in one of the last frontiers: A cave. There are few places left on Earth that have not been explored yet. The great underground is one of those few. In the spirit of exploration we cavers seek to find places no one else has ever seen. There is nothing like the rush of seeing a place that may have never been seen by a human before. America was already inhabited when we discovered it, but caves often are completely untouched (especially those that are hypogene in nature).
A neat dissolutional stream “chute” in Marble Cave of Sequoia National Park July 4, 2011
The cave I visited today was a commercial cave and not a new discovery for me, but less than 100 years ago it was a new frontier for someone. Crystal cave was discovered by Alex Medley and Cassius Weber in 1918. Today it is located within the boundaries of Sequoia National Park. Formed in a beautiful gray and white marble it has around 2.5 miles of passage. Since the marble bedding has a high dip angle the cave isn’t extensive laterally.
The marble in a stream bed within Crystal Cave Sequoia National Park July 4, 2011
They have been making a lot of efforts to return Crystal cave to a more natural state. The park has been replacing lighting with new ones that will help prevent the growth of algae and other organisms that are not natural to the cave environment. The tour involves a nice hike down a fair amount of stairs that you will need to climb back up so I don’t recommend it for anyone unable to traverse a significant amount of incline.
Crystal Cave Entrance July 4, 2011
The cave gate is pretty interesting, designed to look like a spider web. The tour will vary depending on the guide you get, but all are interesting. A member of my grotto back home, Chouteau Grotto, was actually working the day I visited although I wasn’t assigned to his tour. Such a small world when you are a caver!
While I had spent the last couple days visiting caves and natural wonders of inland California it was time for me to make like the explorers of the 15th century and head West. Time to head back to the area of my birth and visit some family. I need the three S’s: Sun, Sand and Sea.
Balance is important in your day to day life. One has to enjoy both the warm sunshine and the starry nights to have a complete day. Life is never about choosing left, right or even straight but rather to chose a mix of the three until you find that perfect place.
Today I headed to the interior of California in anticipation of seeing some of the most spectacular helictities in the country. The caves of the state are known to produce some beautiful, delicate speleothems and helictites are one of my favorites to look at (next to cave pearls, of course!). Black Chasm caverns is one of those such caves that anyone can take the time to visit.
Helictites galore in Black Chasm Caverns. July 3rd, 2011.
The helictites are delicate formations that seem to defy gravity, growing every which way unlike their cousins of the cave (stalactites, stalagmites, draperies, etc). How exactly they form is still debated but it is commonly accepted that capillary forces play a big roll in their whimsical development.
Draperies in Black Chasm Caverns. Volcano, California July 3rd, 2011.
The texture of the draperies here in Black Chasm was quite different than the limestone caves I have been used to. The crystal structure almost looked more like aragonite than calcite. I don’t know why yet, but maybe graduate school will enlighten me. 🙂
A close-up of the crystalline structure of the draperies in Black Chasm. July 3rd, 2011.
Located near Volcano, CA this National Natural Landmark is a pretty inexpensive visit. There are plenty of places to camp near-by, or if you chose to do what I did, is a nice wayside visit on your way to King’s Canyon/Sequoia National Parks. It was time for me to head out to see some of the LARGEST trees in the world.
A sequoia in King’s Canyon N.P. July 3rd, 2011
I was able to see many of the famous Sequoia trees, including the General Grant which is the WIDEST sequoia at 40′ diameter, the 3rd largest tree in the WORLD by volume. and is 1700 years old! A humorous sight to see in this part of King’s Canyon N.P. is the Centennial Stump. It is a tree that was cut in 1875, measuring 24′ in diameter, and shipped to Philadelphia’s Centennial Exhibition. No one believed that it truly was one tree and they proclaimed it to be the “California Hoax”. There is one sequoia that fell many years ago and is now an empty shell that you can actually walk through. That’s how BIG these trees are!
Walking through a fallen giant. A sequoia in King’s Canyon N.P. on July 3rd, 2011.
I stayed the night at the John Muir lodge in Grant Grove, and ate at their wonderful full-service restaurant. It was a bit pricey (think $200+ for the night, although it WAS a holiday weekend) but since the campgrounds were first come first serve and all full I was a bit out of luck. Plus, the lodge ended up being well worth it and the nice dinner was a welcome change to my usual camp food.
It’s a bit ironic that I am a caver because I need sunlight like I need water. In a world full of bright, warm sunlight I love exploring the deepest and darkest depths of the Earth. At the same time I love to spend hours basking in the sun, where I feel happy and content with being at peace. I guess that’s my perfect balance. I need the world as a whole, from the deepest, darkest depths to the greatest, brightest heights. I’m going to spend my life experiencing all that the Earth has to offer.
This Grand Adventure is step one for me, what is your step one?
-Nicole
A beautiful vista of King’s Canyon N.P. July 3rd, 2011.A giant sequoia of King’s Canyon N.P. July 3rd, 2011.
Hey, when your traveling involves this much documenting, learning, experiencing and picture taking you are BOUND to need a little break. It’s time for R&R. The picture above describes most of my day. 🙂 See you all tomorrow!
This morning, waking up near Brookings, Oregon in Umpqua Lighthouse State Park I was quite excited. Today I’d be heading South along the famous highway 101 into the state of my birth. The drive itself is so scenic it becomes hard to get more than a few miles without taking pictures.
McCullough Bridge, An Oregon State Historic Landmark. Built in 1936. Driving along the 101 on July 1, 2011
First you cross the famous architectural wonders: The bridges of 101. These bridges have been featured on shows on the travel channel and it’s no mystery why. Each one was uniquely designed by a renowned architect to awe and inspire travelers.
After some amazing bridges, and right before I crossed into California, I cam across some of the most breath-taking views of coastal cliffs, caves and arches. The sedimentary rocks of the pacific coast are eroded by waves and wind, both carrying sediments that slowly carve out caves, and later carve them into bridges, and towers. It’s a beautiful sight to watch the waves crash into these rocks.
Well-knowing that my drive would be slowed due to the gorgeous views of the pacific ocean my plans involved my camping at Golden Bluffs State Park….however I was greeted with a “campground full” sign. Unfortunately many of California’s campsites are first-come first-serve, meaning no reservations. Since my Grand Adventure put me in California the weekend of the 4th of July all of the campgrounds were full. It doesn’t mean I didn’t enjoy the view.
Roosevelt Elk at Golden Bluffs State Park, California July 1, 2011
I’ve now been on the road for over 50 days and I can’t imagine how to decide which view is the most inspirational, but this would definitely be right up in the top. The west coast’s geology is ever changing at such a rapid pace. As compared to the landforms of the east (our passive margin) the west coast is constantly being changed.
A lot of us are scared of change. We see it as a hurdle to overcome or a step backwards in our trek. Truth is the changes are inevitable the most formative parts of our lives. They are the reasons we love, hate, hurt, smile, laugh and inspire. The west coast is a perfect example of how change will mold you into a better, more beautiful person. Perfection isn’t holding a true form. The closest to perfection you will ever be is to accept the challenges that crash into you and make changes to be a better person.
An arch in the Pacific on the South Oregon coast. July 1, 2011
Looking at these scenes along the coasts of Oregon and California you can see two different things: destruction and construction. You could say that the waves are crashing into the rocks and destroying them…or you could say they are creating these landforms that we enjoy. Standing here on the coast, watching those waves crash and catching my breath as I realize I am truly experiencing this, I learn something.
Destruction is a method of creation. You can’t have construction without some sort of destruction. When life starts crashing into you it isn’t trying to destroy you, it is trying to build a more resilient you. Don’t fight the waves….brace yourself and revel in the fact you will be a better person for it.
Experience. Is. Life. All of it.
Nicole
Golden Bluff’s Campground. Cali. July 1, 2011Highway 101 does dive inland a bit into a portion of the Redwood National Forest. July 1, 2011
The anticipation of seeing someplace new always, in my mind, overrides the hesitance that accompanies the dangers of traveling alone. Even though I am traveling alone, I never truly feel alone. Everywhere I go I find something familiar, and the new age of technology makes me feel tethered to a thousand different people, and similarly places, all at once. The goal of the day was pretty simple in my agenda: make it to the ocean and find a place to camp on the coast. While I was heading to a place I had never visited it is in no way a strange place. There is something comforting and familiar about everywhere I go, and each place both creates memories, and triggers old ones to emerge back on the surface.
As I made my way to the West I noticed a sign that gained my attention. “Wine Cave, turn left 6 miles” it proclaimed. Who could say no to that? Here I was, in wine country, and there was a place that had both a cave and wine together? This cave geologist has a particular taste for pinot noir and here I was in the middle of the particular grape’s habitat. I turned left and started my short detour from my route to the sea.
Reustle “Prayer Rock” Vineyards June 30, 2011 Barrels of wine in the “wine cave”
Reustle Winery is located in the Oregon countryside, and although it has what they call a wine “cave” it does not actually have a cave on property (to my dissapointment). What it does have is an excellent selection of wine, and when you taste they give you culinary creations designed to compliment each specific wine on the taste list. The entire vineyard is gorgeous. The landscape is done tastefully with roses in bloom and plenty of outdoor places to mingle with friends. I was the only customer there at the time, it being the middle of the week and a bit chilly. There are plenty of areas to explore in the vineyard, each one of them as picturesque as the next. I will say their pino noir was definitely worth the detour.
Reustle “Prayer Rock” Winery Vines June 30, 2011
Umpque Lighthouse State Park was the campground of choice for the night. Sitting right on the far southern coast of Oregon, the campgrounds are convieniently located a short walk from the beach. The beach itself has dunes where you are allowed to drive 4x4s on (Although I recommend having tires specified for this use to do so, mine were not). I spent the evening on the beach, under the light of the Umpqua lighthouse, as the sun made it’s way down into the western extent of the Pacific.
Umpqua Lighthouse Beach June 30, 2011 The surfer dogs playing in the surf.
I wasn’t alone. A surfer’s dog adopted me as a temporary friend, fending off the giant black birds that kept trying to steal my banana bread. I drank some wine and stayed until the sun was so far down in the sky it could no longer keep me warm, then I drove up to the lighthouse to watch the last few minutes of the sunset. I reminisced about today’s mixof intertwining interests: Pinot Noir, the Pacific coast, off-roading on a beach (for the first time), even the cave that wasn’t a cave. All things I enjoyed. I started wondering if I find contentment in my life because I always find what interests me, or because I can manage to find an interest in so many things.
Umpqua Lighthouse June 30, 2011
So many people have said this, but I think it needs to be taken with more weight than it is:
“Life is what you make of it”
That is exactly it. This Grand Adventure didn’t happen because I dreamt of it, it’s because I pushed myself to find the drive and the ambition to accomplish it. The world around us doesn’t fill our lives with interesting things, we have to find an interest in the things that the world already provides. The rest of life falls into place after you accept that you can’t seek out something to make you happy. The world already exists, you simply have to change your point of view on what makes life worth living.
Happiness comes in a trifecta. It consists what already exists, what we put into it, and how we view both of those things. The first is a given that we can’t change anything about other than using the third. The other two are things one must consciously be aware of. You can’t expect the world to change for you, you have to find a way to enjoy the world and then do your part to make that part better for yourself and others.
I think my grandmother put it best on a note she gave me just days before I left on this journey: “Anyone can be a dreamer, but it takes someone special to make a dream a reality”.
Dreaming is the essence of inspiration, but you have to obey the trifecta if you plan on making anything out of it. The world is your canvas, the paints your input, and the brush your interpretation of them both. Everyone has the ability to accomplish their dreams, you just have to interpret the dream into a plan- and make it happen.
-Nicole
My footprints in the sand at Umpqua Lighthouse Beach in Oregon. June 30, 2011
Off-roading at Umpqua Lighthouse Beach (Oregon) on June 30, 2011
Today was going to be a detour from the carefully planned itinerary I had developed for this trip. It has been over 50 days since I started this journey and there is one important thing to understand about road trips: The plan is secondary to the journey. If you take a vacation your agenda should be created as a tool in case you fail to find adventure. Something to guide your trip rather than dictate it. I was now armed with the information of local lava tubes and a magnetic pull towards the famous crater lake. Neither were on my itinerary, but both are certainly part of this journey of a lifetime.
Using the hand drawn map provided to me by the hotel manager I headed along a high desert gravel road towards my first lava tube of the day. Off-roading trails were abundant in this area and I took my fair share of them along the way. In my attempt to avoid people for the day, driving around a truck parked in front of a hill, I managed to put myself on the other side of a makeshift shooting range. The view was beautiful as the wine blew through the dried grass, and the sun was warm and welcoming after spending so many days in the cool northwest. I spent a good amount of time sitting on my Jeep’s hood taking in the sunlight, but the gun fire prompted me to move on. Turns out in avoiding company I had failed to pay attention to the fact they were target shooting and I was on the wrong end of the line of fire. I drove out here to see lava tubes, anyways.
Me in front of Skeleteon Cave June 29, 2011
Boyd cave was the first lava tube I found along the dusty dirt road. The cave, surveyed in 1969, has only 1880 feet worth of passage. The subway tunnel-like passages are pretty typical of a lava tube and Boyd’s was no exception. In contrast to the limestone caves I consider home these were bland and boring. I stopped at Skeleton Cave, another lava tube, but did not go in. It was gated and access is by permit only. I didn’t feel like I was missing out on much.
I mean no offense towards the cavers of the lava tube persuasion, but speleothems are kind of my passion. Not only do the lava tubes I have seen thus far lack any significant decorations (although I hear there are a few lava tubes capped by limestone that do have speleothem development. I have not had the pleasure of visiting these yet) but the passages are too predictable. Caving, for me, is a curious adventure with twists, turns, and a wonderment at the chaotic and complex nature of a cavern’s path. Why water chose to follow one joint instead of another has always been a curiosity of mine. The lava tube is so straight forward that it reminds me of a man made subterranean tunnel, and thus lacks the fantasy of a wild cave.
Entrance to Skeleton Cave, June 29, 2011. Oregon.
The warmth of the high desert plains reminded me it was time to head towards to golden coast. Oregon’s volcanic history sculpted the terrain I was driving through, fields of pumice and lava flows. The northwest is a vulcanologist ideal vacation spot, full of volcanic wonders. There was still another place of interest to visit on today’s impromptu journey: Crater Lake.
I stopped to get gas again and if there is one thing you need to know about journeying through Oregon in your vehicle it is this: You aren’t allowed to pump your own gas. Yesterday I thought the gas station attendant was just being nice, and today I learned it is against the law to pump your own gasoline. Travelers be aware: full service only in Oregon.
The Pumice Desert near Crater Lake in Orgeon. June 29, 2011
On the approach to Crater Lake I drove through the pumice desert. Almost 8000 years ago Mt. Mazama erupted, forming crater lake and this desert of pumice that is nearly 100 feet thick. Vegetation has been slow to return in this area since the lack of nutrients don’t allow for a suitable growing environment. Today the pumice desert was covered lightly in snow, and as I headed up the winding road to the top of Crater lake the snow was even deeper. Throughout this trip I have been reminded that the entire continent received a large amount of winter precipitation, but it never ceased to amaze me how much snow was still here. It is the end of June and as I head up to Crater Lake National Park the RV in front of me is SHORTER than the snow piled along the sides of the plowed road.
Snow pack on road up to Crater Lake June 29, 2011
The weather was misty, and foggy. When I arrived at the top of Crater Lake I could see nothing. The water that everyone claims is so blue and clear, some of the deepest water in the country, was hidden behind the thick blanket of fog. I spent a short period of time there, then retreated back down to a warmer area.
Mt. Thielsen, Lightening Rod of the Cascades June 29, 2011
I drove past the Mt. Thielsen, the lightening rod of the Cascades. This former volcano’s core attracts lighting strikes so often that the rock atop the summit is actually melted. I arrived at my hotel and decided to get some rest. Tomorrow I would be back on the coast, gazing at the beautiful Pacific. While the geologist in me was fascinated with the volcanism of the Cascades nothing could compare with the tranquility brought to me by the crashing waves of the Pacific. Maybe it was because I was born next to this ocean’s breeze, but nothing ever feels more like home.
The foggy view of Crater Lake June 29, 2011.
The tunnel to the bathroom at Crater Lake (meant to keep snow out) June 29, 2011
The big open wilderness of Oregon was masked as I drove southeast from the Portland area. As I climbed the pass on 26 highway I joined Mt. Hood in the blanket of the clouds. Driving through Oregon was a lot like opening a present layer by layer. After my foggy drive through Mt. Hood National Forest the land opened up in front of me as a high desert plain. Brushy vegetation was in bloom with snow-capped mountains in the distance.
Oregon Landscape. June 28, 2011. North of Warm Spings, OR
After I passed Warm Springs, Oregon I ran into some beautiful examples of columnar jointing in basalt. At first it towered straight into the sky, and further down the road the pattern made a swirl like I have never seen. I’m not as familiar with igneous rocks so I don’t know what causes the jointing to swirl in different directions rather it’s preferred vertical pattern. If anyone knows please inform me. I live to learn! (See the cover photo for this entry)
Columnar Jointing in Basalt, Oregon June 28, 2011
Further down the highway I stopped at the Ogden State Scenic Viewpoint. It overlooks a beautiful basaltic canyon carved by the Crooked River. The canyon edges are more than steep- they are completely vertical. The canyon is over 300 feet deep and proved impassable until 1911 when they finally had the technology and resources to build a bridge.
Ogden State Viewpoint. Oregon June 28, 2011
While the view is gorgeous, I think one of the main reasons to visit would be to see the warning signs. There are several different flavors of humorous, albeit justified, warning signs. I think my favorite was the one below that shows a dog jumping off a cliff.
Sign at Ogden State Viewpoint, Oregon Juen 28, 2011
After stopping by a Trader Joes to get ingredients for dinner I headed towards my planned campsite. I was pretty excited to camp in Oregon. I knew the weather would be wonderful and it would be my first experience in Oregon. Unfortunately a less humorous sign than those of Ogden State Scenic Viewpoint were ready to welcome me in the state:
Campgrounds were full in Oregon. June 28, 2011
After spending several hours driving from campsite to campsite only to be greeted by the same message I had to surrender to a hotel. Remember how I mentioned yesterday it was important to plan for extra spending money? This is a perfect example of why anyone should plan to do just that. Hotels are certainly more expensive than a campground.
The hotel stay turned out to be a blessing in disguise. The owner happened be someone who had been caving a few times and had the inside info on some local lava tubes I could explore. He gave me directions to 3 or 4 different places I could go visit to round out my lava tube experience from yesterday’s Ape Cave.
I may have been taken out of the campground for the night, but nothing could take the camp out of me. I had planned on browning the ground turkey I purchased at Trader Joes so I could make turkey tacos and nothing could stop me. I set up my camp stove on the sidewalk and brown the half pound of ground turkey (I usually cooked all the meet then all I had to do is keep it in the cooler and reheat at the next camp). I enjoyed my turkey burgers with a sense of accomplishment and laughter at the looks other hotel guests gave me.
Cooking at a Hotel in Bend, Oregon. Juen 28, 2011
Oregon’s outdoors may have escaped the grasp of my tent tonight, but as a result tomorrow I would be doing something well worth the inconvenience: Caving. I’ll see you all underground tomorrow.
-Nicole
I tried a local beer and it commended me. Oregon June 28, 2011
Day 49: Mount St. Helens National Park & Ape Cave
There are a few different types of travelers out there one can embody. One can be the careful traveler, someone who sticks to the main roads and a strict agenda. Reading all of the signs and going only to those places known for tourism this traveler sees the same sort of things that they can experience with an internet service and a basic knowledge of search engines. The places this kind of traveler goes to have already been seen over and over, and from the exact same perspective. The careful traveler only stops to photograph views that are designated by road signs and very likely stands right next to the sign with a camera icon for every scenic picture. A typical cookie-cutter vacationer who wants to see everything they’ve seen in photos exactly as they have seen them.
Another type of traveler one can be is the reckless traveler. These types jump in head first without reading the signs. They trespass into places they have no knowledge of and destroy delicate ecosystems and ancient rock forms. The reckless travelers are the ones who run out of gas and money before the allotted time for vacation is even near to being up. They don’t plan a vacation at all, and leave home with none of the gear they will need forcing them to use all of their spending money on supplies only to show up to the park and learn they can no longer afford the admission fee. This traveler is also the most likely to be injured not because of their activities, but because of their lack of information, common sense, and planning.
There is a third type of traveler and this is the one that I strive to be. It walks the line between careful and reckless. This traveler plans their vacations well but allows for a good amount of wiggle room in budget and time. This traveler plans a generic agenda but is prepared to change it on the fly when they come across something new. They will leave the well-beaten path, but only because they have educated themselves in how to handle every situation. They aren’t always law abiding, but they are respectful and resourceful. This type of traveler is known by a single adjective.
Adventurous.
Mt. St. Helens June 27, 2011. "29" and I.
Mount St. Helens is a place of adventure. Most people think of Mt. St. Helens and think of the explosive event of 1980 when the nation was glued to the news as they watched a mountain transform in front of their eyes. This is one of the aspects of adventure that many of us seek: a slight sense of danger. You can’t get that when you are on confined trails with a monotone tour guide telling you the kindergarten version of the geologic history. The Mt. St. Helens National Park has many things to see and is surprisingly well catered to the traveler who doesn’t want the cookie-cutter guide to take them around (although they do have this on request).
An angry "29". Mt. St. Helens N.P. 6.27.2011
The drive up Mt. St. Helens started out exactly as I expected it. The long, winding road wound up the side of the slumbering volcano, rocky road cuts slowly being replaced by something that looked more like volcanic ash just as one would expect. Unfortunately this mountain was no different than the rest in the country that had received an excessive amount of winter precipitation. I drove for almost 40 miles to find out the pass was closed. It was still buried under 10 plus FEET of snow. My Jeep doesn’t usually care for “Road Closed” signs too well, and it sought an alternate route…. but I force disappointed “29” back down the winding road for an over 100 mile detour to get to the other side of the park.
Ape Cave. A lava tube in Mt. St. Helens National Park. June 27, 2011
On the other side of the park sat Ape Cave, a lava tube that was discovered about 30 years prior to the famous eruption of Mt. St. Helens. It is 12, 180 feet long, completely dark (as you would expect any cave to be), and a lot like a subway tunnel full of sharp boulders. Inside you get a to take the choice of two routes, Upper Passage or Lower Passage. The Lower Passage only goes about 0.75 miles and is an easy walk. Upper Passage is 1.25 miles and a more difficult traverse, climbing large boulder fields and scaling an 8-foot “lava fall” free style. Best of all: The entire tour is self guided and you must provide your own lighting. Guess which route I took…
A skylight in Ape Cave lava tube. Mt. St. Helens N.P. 6/27/2011
Upper Passage was a lot of fun. I will have to say that I found my first lava tube to be interesting, but rather boring in comparison to the winding limestone caves I am used to in the Midwest. Ape Cave is a pretty typical lava tube, a very straight cylindrical cavern with a few sky lights here and there, and small lava drips that hang from the ceilings. The temperature is cooler than the caves I am used to, averaging only 42 degrees fahrenheit.
Ape Cave lava drips in Mt. St. Helens N.P. June 27, 2011
After my tour of Ape Cave (I must proclaim the tour guide was fantastic…lol!) I headed to another interesting place of interest that wasn’t on the agenda. The Trail of Two Forests is a lava flow with hollows where trees originally stood. You can see the ghost tress almost perfectly preserved in the lava, and you can even play a game of prairie dog if you are so inclined, crawling through the tree hollows and popping up through skylights. The place is pretty interesting, and a lot of fun for kids (or the kid in you). Yet another example of how hands-on Mt. St. Helens N.P. seems to be. It allows you to be the adventurous traveler, leaving the paved path and mundane talks behind while still remaining safe and informed.
A tree cast in Mt. St. Helens N.P.'s "Trail of Two Forests" 6/27/2011Me in a ghost tree! "Trail of Two Forests" in Mt. St. Helens N.P. 6/27/2011
On the way out I ran across some off-roading trails. There were no signs forbidding me to drive on them so I took advantage of the opportunity to jostle around on dirt and rocks in the shadow of a snow-covered Mt. St. Helens. There couldn’t have been a more perfect ending to the day.
If you find yourself preparing for a vacation please keep in mind what I have said. You can’t truly experience other worlds if you don’t leave the path, but you need to do so smartly. Be the adventurous traveler, plan your trip with plenty of spare time to enjoy anything you run into, and be ready to change any existing plans at the drop of a hat. A vacation isn’t an itinerary and a bunch of duplicated post card photos. Travel is for experience, for knowledge and growth, for relaxation and something out of the norm.
The only traveler worth being is the adventurous traveler. Anything else can be spent reading a book or a week in the hospital.
Tomorrow I will be continuing my adventurous journey of the summer. My Grand Summer Adventure. Tomorrow will be my 50th day since I embarked on my journey but I’m not slowing down yet. There’s still so much to see, experience, learn…..and share. I’ll see you all there.
Nicole
A view into a cavern from above. Ape Cave in Mt. St. Helens N.P. June 27, 2011
