This morning, waking up near Brookings, Oregon in Umpqua Lighthouse State Park I was quite excited. Today I’d be heading South along the famous highway 101 into the state of my birth. The drive itself is so scenic it becomes hard to get more than a few miles without taking pictures.
McCullough Bridge, An Oregon State Historic Landmark. Built in 1936. Driving along the 101 on July 1, 2011
First you cross the famous architectural wonders: The bridges of 101. These bridges have been featured on shows on the travel channel and it’s no mystery why. Each one was uniquely designed by a renowned architect to awe and inspire travelers.
After some amazing bridges, and right before I crossed into California, I cam across some of the most breath-taking views of coastal cliffs, caves and arches. The sedimentary rocks of the pacific coast are eroded by waves and wind, both carrying sediments that slowly carve out caves, and later carve them into bridges, and towers. It’s a beautiful sight to watch the waves crash into these rocks.
Well-knowing that my drive would be slowed due to the gorgeous views of the pacific ocean my plans involved my camping at Golden Bluffs State Park….however I was greeted with a “campground full” sign. Unfortunately many of California’s campsites are first-come first-serve, meaning no reservations. Since my Grand Adventure put me in California the weekend of the 4th of July all of the campgrounds were full. It doesn’t mean I didn’t enjoy the view.
Roosevelt Elk at Golden Bluffs State Park, California July 1, 2011
I’ve now been on the road for over 50 days and I can’t imagine how to decide which view is the most inspirational, but this would definitely be right up in the top. The west coast’s geology is ever changing at such a rapid pace. As compared to the landforms of the east (our passive margin) the west coast is constantly being changed.
A lot of us are scared of change. We see it as a hurdle to overcome or a step backwards in our trek. Truth is the changes are inevitable the most formative parts of our lives. They are the reasons we love, hate, hurt, smile, laugh and inspire. The west coast is a perfect example of how change will mold you into a better, more beautiful person. Perfection isn’t holding a true form. The closest to perfection you will ever be is to accept the challenges that crash into you and make changes to be a better person.
An arch in the Pacific on the South Oregon coast. July 1, 2011
Looking at these scenes along the coasts of Oregon and California you can see two different things: destruction and construction. You could say that the waves are crashing into the rocks and destroying them…or you could say they are creating these landforms that we enjoy. Standing here on the coast, watching those waves crash and catching my breath as I realize I am truly experiencing this, I learn something.
Destruction is a method of creation. You can’t have construction without some sort of destruction. When life starts crashing into you it isn’t trying to destroy you, it is trying to build a more resilient you. Don’t fight the waves….brace yourself and revel in the fact you will be a better person for it.
Experience. Is. Life. All of it.
Nicole
Golden Bluff’s Campground. Cali. July 1, 2011Highway 101 does dive inland a bit into a portion of the Redwood National Forest. July 1, 2011
The big open wilderness of Oregon was masked as I drove southeast from the Portland area. As I climbed the pass on 26 highway I joined Mt. Hood in the blanket of the clouds. Driving through Oregon was a lot like opening a present layer by layer. After my foggy drive through Mt. Hood National Forest the land opened up in front of me as a high desert plain. Brushy vegetation was in bloom with snow-capped mountains in the distance.
Oregon Landscape. June 28, 2011. North of Warm Spings, OR
After I passed Warm Springs, Oregon I ran into some beautiful examples of columnar jointing in basalt. At first it towered straight into the sky, and further down the road the pattern made a swirl like I have never seen. I’m not as familiar with igneous rocks so I don’t know what causes the jointing to swirl in different directions rather it’s preferred vertical pattern. If anyone knows please inform me. I live to learn! (See the cover photo for this entry)
Columnar Jointing in Basalt, Oregon June 28, 2011
Further down the highway I stopped at the Ogden State Scenic Viewpoint. It overlooks a beautiful basaltic canyon carved by the Crooked River. The canyon edges are more than steep- they are completely vertical. The canyon is over 300 feet deep and proved impassable until 1911 when they finally had the technology and resources to build a bridge.
Ogden State Viewpoint. Oregon June 28, 2011
While the view is gorgeous, I think one of the main reasons to visit would be to see the warning signs. There are several different flavors of humorous, albeit justified, warning signs. I think my favorite was the one below that shows a dog jumping off a cliff.
Sign at Ogden State Viewpoint, Oregon Juen 28, 2011
After stopping by a Trader Joes to get ingredients for dinner I headed towards my planned campsite. I was pretty excited to camp in Oregon. I knew the weather would be wonderful and it would be my first experience in Oregon. Unfortunately a less humorous sign than those of Ogden State Scenic Viewpoint were ready to welcome me in the state:
Campgrounds were full in Oregon. June 28, 2011
After spending several hours driving from campsite to campsite only to be greeted by the same message I had to surrender to a hotel. Remember how I mentioned yesterday it was important to plan for extra spending money? This is a perfect example of why anyone should plan to do just that. Hotels are certainly more expensive than a campground.
The hotel stay turned out to be a blessing in disguise. The owner happened be someone who had been caving a few times and had the inside info on some local lava tubes I could explore. He gave me directions to 3 or 4 different places I could go visit to round out my lava tube experience from yesterday’s Ape Cave.
I may have been taken out of the campground for the night, but nothing could take the camp out of me. I had planned on browning the ground turkey I purchased at Trader Joes so I could make turkey tacos and nothing could stop me. I set up my camp stove on the sidewalk and brown the half pound of ground turkey (I usually cooked all the meet then all I had to do is keep it in the cooler and reheat at the next camp). I enjoyed my turkey burgers with a sense of accomplishment and laughter at the looks other hotel guests gave me.
Cooking at a Hotel in Bend, Oregon. Juen 28, 2011
Oregon’s outdoors may have escaped the grasp of my tent tonight, but as a result tomorrow I would be doing something well worth the inconvenience: Caving. I’ll see you all underground tomorrow.
-Nicole
I tried a local beer and it commended me. Oregon June 28, 2011
Day 49: Mount St. Helens National Park & Ape Cave
There are a few different types of travelers out there one can embody. One can be the careful traveler, someone who sticks to the main roads and a strict agenda. Reading all of the signs and going only to those places known for tourism this traveler sees the same sort of things that they can experience with an internet service and a basic knowledge of search engines. The places this kind of traveler goes to have already been seen over and over, and from the exact same perspective. The careful traveler only stops to photograph views that are designated by road signs and very likely stands right next to the sign with a camera icon for every scenic picture. A typical cookie-cutter vacationer who wants to see everything they’ve seen in photos exactly as they have seen them.
Another type of traveler one can be is the reckless traveler. These types jump in head first without reading the signs. They trespass into places they have no knowledge of and destroy delicate ecosystems and ancient rock forms. The reckless travelers are the ones who run out of gas and money before the allotted time for vacation is even near to being up. They don’t plan a vacation at all, and leave home with none of the gear they will need forcing them to use all of their spending money on supplies only to show up to the park and learn they can no longer afford the admission fee. This traveler is also the most likely to be injured not because of their activities, but because of their lack of information, common sense, and planning.
There is a third type of traveler and this is the one that I strive to be. It walks the line between careful and reckless. This traveler plans their vacations well but allows for a good amount of wiggle room in budget and time. This traveler plans a generic agenda but is prepared to change it on the fly when they come across something new. They will leave the well-beaten path, but only because they have educated themselves in how to handle every situation. They aren’t always law abiding, but they are respectful and resourceful. This type of traveler is known by a single adjective.
Adventurous.
Mt. St. Helens June 27, 2011. "29" and I.
Mount St. Helens is a place of adventure. Most people think of Mt. St. Helens and think of the explosive event of 1980 when the nation was glued to the news as they watched a mountain transform in front of their eyes. This is one of the aspects of adventure that many of us seek: a slight sense of danger. You can’t get that when you are on confined trails with a monotone tour guide telling you the kindergarten version of the geologic history. The Mt. St. Helens National Park has many things to see and is surprisingly well catered to the traveler who doesn’t want the cookie-cutter guide to take them around (although they do have this on request).
An angry "29". Mt. St. Helens N.P. 6.27.2011
The drive up Mt. St. Helens started out exactly as I expected it. The long, winding road wound up the side of the slumbering volcano, rocky road cuts slowly being replaced by something that looked more like volcanic ash just as one would expect. Unfortunately this mountain was no different than the rest in the country that had received an excessive amount of winter precipitation. I drove for almost 40 miles to find out the pass was closed. It was still buried under 10 plus FEET of snow. My Jeep doesn’t usually care for “Road Closed” signs too well, and it sought an alternate route…. but I force disappointed “29” back down the winding road for an over 100 mile detour to get to the other side of the park.
Ape Cave. A lava tube in Mt. St. Helens National Park. June 27, 2011
On the other side of the park sat Ape Cave, a lava tube that was discovered about 30 years prior to the famous eruption of Mt. St. Helens. It is 12, 180 feet long, completely dark (as you would expect any cave to be), and a lot like a subway tunnel full of sharp boulders. Inside you get a to take the choice of two routes, Upper Passage or Lower Passage. The Lower Passage only goes about 0.75 miles and is an easy walk. Upper Passage is 1.25 miles and a more difficult traverse, climbing large boulder fields and scaling an 8-foot “lava fall” free style. Best of all: The entire tour is self guided and you must provide your own lighting. Guess which route I took…
A skylight in Ape Cave lava tube. Mt. St. Helens N.P. 6/27/2011
Upper Passage was a lot of fun. I will have to say that I found my first lava tube to be interesting, but rather boring in comparison to the winding limestone caves I am used to in the Midwest. Ape Cave is a pretty typical lava tube, a very straight cylindrical cavern with a few sky lights here and there, and small lava drips that hang from the ceilings. The temperature is cooler than the caves I am used to, averaging only 42 degrees fahrenheit.
Ape Cave lava drips in Mt. St. Helens N.P. June 27, 2011
After my tour of Ape Cave (I must proclaim the tour guide was fantastic…lol!) I headed to another interesting place of interest that wasn’t on the agenda. The Trail of Two Forests is a lava flow with hollows where trees originally stood. You can see the ghost tress almost perfectly preserved in the lava, and you can even play a game of prairie dog if you are so inclined, crawling through the tree hollows and popping up through skylights. The place is pretty interesting, and a lot of fun for kids (or the kid in you). Yet another example of how hands-on Mt. St. Helens N.P. seems to be. It allows you to be the adventurous traveler, leaving the paved path and mundane talks behind while still remaining safe and informed.
A tree cast in Mt. St. Helens N.P.'s "Trail of Two Forests" 6/27/2011Me in a ghost tree! "Trail of Two Forests" in Mt. St. Helens N.P. 6/27/2011
On the way out I ran across some off-roading trails. There were no signs forbidding me to drive on them so I took advantage of the opportunity to jostle around on dirt and rocks in the shadow of a snow-covered Mt. St. Helens. There couldn’t have been a more perfect ending to the day.
If you find yourself preparing for a vacation please keep in mind what I have said. You can’t truly experience other worlds if you don’t leave the path, but you need to do so smartly. Be the adventurous traveler, plan your trip with plenty of spare time to enjoy anything you run into, and be ready to change any existing plans at the drop of a hat. A vacation isn’t an itinerary and a bunch of duplicated post card photos. Travel is for experience, for knowledge and growth, for relaxation and something out of the norm.
The only traveler worth being is the adventurous traveler. Anything else can be spent reading a book or a week in the hospital.
Tomorrow I will be continuing my adventurous journey of the summer. My Grand Summer Adventure. Tomorrow will be my 50th day since I embarked on my journey but I’m not slowing down yet. There’s still so much to see, experience, learn…..and share. I’ll see you all there.
Nicole
A view into a cavern from above. Ape Cave in Mt. St. Helens N.P. June 27, 2011
Many emblems of the world hold multiple meanings. It is of no surprise that a rainbow holds various meanings of symbolism. A rainbow can be a sign of success after a hard time or a symbol that it is ok to be yourself even if you stand out from a crowd. It can also be a way to describe something that has many different faces and colors. A rainbow expresses itself by claiming that it is not strictly the embodiment of one self, but many. Olympic National Park is also a park of many colors- and yes, it even has rainbows.
The Hoh Rainforest of Olympic National Park. June 26, 2011
It comes as a big surprise to many that the continental United States is actually home to a rain forest. The Hoh rain forest located within the protective confines of Olympic National Park receives an average of twelve FEET of rain. This was the first color of Olympic N.P. that I was able to experience, only a few miles south of my campsite in Bogachiel S.P.
Me, peaking out from a Sitka Spruce in the Hoh Rainforest. Olympic National Park June 26, 2011
The lush rain forest is a lot like you would expect. Temperatures are moderated by the lower elevation and maritime effect of the nearby coast; it rarely drops below freezing or above 80 degrees Fahrenheit. Mosses, ferns and lichens grow all over everything, from the expected soil to the trunks of trees and other woody plants they can cling their sticky roots to. The Sitka Spruce trees are probably the most sought trees to visit, they tower into the sky by more than 20 stories.
The circular rainbow of Olympic N.P.'s Hoh Rainforest June 26, 2011
Looking up into the sky- although the dense rain forest does make the sky patches few- often gives you a view of a rainbow halo. The mist from the humid rain forest rises into the sky, forming a circular rainbow that encompasses the sun. Nearby is the Hoh River, and mud roads lead to the cobbled riverbed that you can drive up onto, right up to the river’s edge. It is a beautiful sight (and a lot of fun for those who drive Jeeps!)
Driving in the mud puddles of Hoh Rainforest. June 26, 2011
The colors of Olympic National park don’t stop there. As I headed south along the coast I was able to visit the park’s 73-mile long wilderness coast. Here the forest meets the Pacific in grand views overlooking rocky cliffs, tide pools, towering rocks in the surf, and boneyards of giant Sitka Spruce and other trees that accumulate at river deltas.
A stream outlet and tree boneyard in Olympic National Park's Coastal Wilderness. June 26, 2011
The coast is breathtaking, a stark contrast against the enclosing, green walls of the rainforest, it opens up into a great big sky and the sea that stretches further than the eye can see. Wildflowers line the cliffs as you look down upon the sandy beach below, and in the distance islands interrupt the endless waves of the Pacific.
The Olympic N.P. Wilderness coast. Washington State, June 26, 2011
Looking back inland you can see the mountainous portions of Olympic N.P., some peaks are still topped in snow, an alpine ecosystem less than a half day’s drive from the temperate rain forests and coastal beauties. Not only does the park have rainbows, it is a rainbow itself.
Tomorrow I will be visiting two more colors of the rainbow of a geologic world- ones I have yet to see in person. What colors will I see tomorrow? I guess you will have to come back to find out.
-Nicole
The tree boneyard in Olympic N.P.'s coastal wilderness. June 26, 2011
Escape from reality is something sought by a majority of society. Whether we read a book, watch a movie or tv show, or play video games we are all looking for a break. Many people even spend a large percentage of their time achieving this goal. Life is so mundane in reality that we have to live other lives within our mind. It is a recent addition to the needs of being human- we used to be too busy working to live to delve into creative arts. Now we don’t only create alternative worlds, we live in other’s creations.
Today was a day where I would mesh both worlds together. A few of the fantasy worlds that I enjoyed as a guilty pleasure when I needed a break from the daily grind, and the real world, were about to come together. As I left Seattle I decided to leave in the only way a Grey’s Anatomy character would: On a ferry boat.
My Jeep, "29" on the ferry boat from Fauntleroy to Southworth. June 25, 2011
My Jeep is the epitome of adventure, and I have been many places in it. So far I have driven on snow, rocks, roads, mountains, deserts and the great plains. Today my Jeep would accomplish something it had never experienced before: it would drive onto a boat and ferry across the bay. I pulled into line at the Fauntleroy terminal where I would board the ship. I enjoyed some more “No Woman” cheese from Seattle’s Beecher’s cheese (courtesy of a relative I stayed with in Seattle) as I waited in line.
Boarding a ferry is kind of like parking at a big event. They line you up in order and direct you into a specific line where you will park as close as possible to the car in front of you. The instant everyone parks they exit and run up to the top deck where they can shelter from the cooler weather and enjoy concessions. I stayed on the lower deck for a while, enjoying the solitude and feeling the sea breeze. I imagined that Meridith enjoyed the same breeze as she stood on the ferry with Derrick. I think sometimes we spend so much time enjoying these alternate realities we forget that these characters aren’t real…they feel real.
I decided to head up to the concession to get a cup of hot tea and explore the rest of the ferry boat. I could stand at the antiqued controls of the boat just like I was the captain. As I sipped my coffee I took in the view of the water rushing away behind me. On the back wall a plaque was placed in memory of the former captain of this ship. Captain David Summerfield Moon was the former first officer, he died in June of 1977 when he went down with his ship in Alaska. The plaque offered no details of the story, but I imagined it to be one of bittersweet courage. A man surely born a sailor and died a sailor.
The ferry boat controls. June 25, 2011. Seattle
After deboarding the ferry boat I followed the coast of Washington, circling around Olympic National Park until I reached the town of Forks. Seattle held the familiarity of the Grey’s Anatomy set without announcing it’s significance. It made the illusion of being a part of the fairy tale more real. Forks, however, announced it’s new found fame every opportunity it had. Businesses left and right claimed to be the place to get Twilight merchandise, and a Twilight fan store on the main road played the theme music on loud speakers into the street.
While I had also become a victim of the Twilight series, so enraptured by the story that I read all four books within two weeks of each other, this Forks was not the one I had in my head. The commercialism had destroyed my fantasy world when it came to Forks. All I could think about is how annoyed the residents of Forks must be with all of the Twilight fans coming to visit. While I was excited to visit Forks because I could see the real life place that one of my fairy tales took place in, I was a little embarrassed to admit I was a fan to anyone.
Forks, WA laundry mat. June 25, 2011
I knew I had to do laundry, so I found the only laundry mat in Forks and sat up shop while my attire swirled in the triple load washers. I went through pictures and looked up some more information on my campsite for the night: Bogachiel State Park . While the scent of gain filled the room as my clothes went through the dryer I chatted with a local girl who was there doing laundry as well.
I went to the local grocery store hoping to get some local cherries. Surely they would be cheaper here in Washington than back home in the midwest. I was disappointed to see that they were $10.99 per lb, so I bought some grapes instead, along with some wines. I was about to have a gourmet meal cooked over a campfire.
My campsite at Bogachiel State Park in Forks,WA. June 25, 2011
Bogachiel State Park was a lot like the forest I imagined Bella and Edward wandering through the rain forest. Everything was so green, moss clinging to the tree trunks, very little of the ground wasn’t covered in ferns or moss. It was, just as the main character of Twilight first described it, an alien world. Too green to be real.
Salmon Berries in Bogachiel State Park Forks, WA June 25, 2011
In the green shrubs I found these salmon-colored berries that looked a lot like raspberries. I decided to try them even though I didn’t know what they were. They weren’t too flavorful, a bit more bland than the raspberries I usually enjoyed. I later found out they were unoriginally called “salmon berries” and were perfectly fine to eat. Let me tell you that I only tried a couple berries and was being a bit adventurous…and I do not recommend anyone try any wild fruits or plants unless they can clearly identify it. As so many television shows and commercials state, “Do not try this at home”.
Prosecco in the Seahawks glass. June 25, 2011 at Bogachiel State Park in Forks WA
For my dinner I cooked some leftover shortribs over the open fire, and enjoyed some Prosecco sparkling wine in my new Seahawks glass I had purchased the day before in Seattle. I chatted with my camp neighbors, two bicyclists that had been on the road for over a week already, and one of them dried their damp sweatshirt over my fire. There isn’t much room for firewood on a bike. It was pleasant to have some nice neighbors and I shared my ribs with them since I had way more than I could eat myself.
Bogachiel State Park in Forks, WA- short ribs on the camp fire. June 25, 2011
I then settled down for the night in my tent, in the dark underneath the shelter of the tall redwood trees covered in green moss. The reality of the worlds I escaped to from time to time in book and television were certainly different than the fantasy version, but they still held a mystique. In a lot of ways, Seattle and Forks both were better in real life than in the mind. The fantasy worlds had met reality today and as the dark closed in it was time for me to create my own fantasy world. Tomorrow brings more reality- although to be honest, I’m beginning to think the reality of this summer is even greater than any fantasy world I could escape to.
-Nicole
During my visit to Crystal Lake Caverns on Day 34 I spoke shortly on the effects of sacrificing small parts of nature to promote preservation of itself at large. Yellowstone and Glacier National Parks, both, show exactly what this means by changing the way nature interacts with human activity. My friend from Missoula and I went on two long hikes during our visit to Glacier National Park, and during both we noticed abnormal wildlife patterns, starting with our first drive through the park.
We arrived at the park only to find out that, like the rest of the continent, this winter had an abnormally high amount of precipitation and the snow pack was still blocking the pass. We would only be able to experience the Western portion of the park. We drove as far as we could and camped at the end, in the Avalanche Creek campground. The campsites are simple, a firepit and picnic bench with the wooded campsite, and no showers or hot water available. It was right next to the first trail we would hike that night, so we decided to go check out some of the lakes and rivers before we took hit the trail.
Glacier N.P. Blackbear June 20, 2011
On the drive back towards the western entrance we came across some traffic, which usually indicates some sort of wildlife has captured the attention of tourists. After sitting for a short time waiting for the cars to take their turn at taking pictures, we saw the black bear begin to wander around the cars. He took his time, looking into the cars to see who would, unintelligibly, offer him food.
The lakes here are glacial, and the biggest one that we were able to see was Lake McDonald. As may be obvious, a glacial lake is formed by a glacier, in the case of Lake McDonald, one that was over 2000 feet thick. As the thick river of ice slides down during melts it bulldozes dirt and rock in front of it, forming a wall called a terminal moraine. When the glacier receding as the climate warmed, the moraine was left behind, damming a lake that stretches to depths of 472 feet.
Lake McDonald in Glacier N.P. June 20, 2011
When we returned to our campsite we decided it was time to hike the Avalanche Creek Trail so that we could make it back before dark. We had been joking about the bear mace marketed to the city slickers, selling for a whopping $55 per can at the stores within the park. The black bears aren’t anything to worry about, but grizzlies can get pretty aggressive if they are startled by a humans. As long as you follow some common sense rules about wildlife they don’t normally bother you, but as has been indicated in the past few days these animals aren’t quite like normal wild animals. They are used to humans.
The Snowshoe Hare along Avalanche Creek trail in Glacier N.P. June 20, 2011
As we made our way up the 2 mile, 500 foot elevation gain trail (4 miles round trip), wildflowers in bloom everywhere indicating that spring had indeed sprung, we ran across a snowshoe hare. The rabbit hopped around nonchalant as we admired it. It wasn’t until I got within a few feet to take some pictures that he began to hop away. We made out way to the end of the trail that terminated at Avalanche Lake, which was incredibly muddy and wet. Along the north side of the trail Avalanche Creek followed along, carving out the bright red bedrock into curvy, smooth canyons. We laughed at the bear bells we could hear ringing throughout the woods. Fear does a number on people….
Avalanche Creek in Glacier N.P. June 20, 2011
On the way back down the trail to our campsite my friend stopped me mid-step. A deer, barely 10 feet away, walked across the trail and right next to us. Like the hare, she walked slowly along as if we were passing in a hallway. I had never been so close to a deer before, and it didn’t even have it’s tail up in alarm. With each animal we came across that had zero fear of humans we began to understand the excessive warnings throughout the park. These animals weren’t exactly wild: They were a hybrid of wild and domestic. The most dangerous type of wild animals, the kind that are so used to humans they think nothing of walking within arm’s reach.
The deer on Avalanche Creek Trail, unafraid of us hikers. June 20, 2011
The next day we hiked another trail, a 7 mile hike on the McDonald Lake Trail. It is a mostly flat trail that follows along the western side of the lake, heading in a general NE direction. A large portion of the hike goes along an area that suffered from a wildfire not too many years ago. The skeletons of trees stand tall, and wildflowers were blooming everywhere. We also noticed bear scat fairly often right on the trail, many of them obviously too large to be a black bear. Maybe those bear bells weren’t so goofy after all.
Bear scat with a print along the McDonald Lake Trail in Glacier N.P.
Glacier National Park was beautiful. The mountains were topped with snow, the lakes were clear and cold, and the scenery was green and in bloom. Ironically, although I had come to Glacier National Park in hopes to see a glacier there was too much snow on the trails to get to a glacier.
I often wonder if people who live in big cities think that the wilderness really is like this, if they think wildlife come right up to you like they do in Yellowstone and Glacier. If we sacrifice some of nature to promote funding for preservation of itself at large, are we giving people the wrong idea? How many people feel comfortable preserving a place where the animals are dangerously used to humans, and attacks aren’t as uncommon as they are in the true wild.
Perhaps the West could enlighten me, as it was time to start heading towards the coast. This about as far north as I would be going for the remainder of my trip. Time to start getting warmer.
-Nicole
Someone rowing on Lake McDonald...I'm not sure what this sport is called, but it's the new thing apparently. June 20, 2011
Slick rocks in Glacier N.P., N. McDonald Creek. June 20, 2011Wildflowers in Glacier N.P. June 20, 2011
The lichens in Glacier N.P. reminded me of the moss of the deep south. June 20, 2011
The colors of the sunset in a puddle on Avalanche Creek Trail, Glacier N.P.The Avalanche Creek campsite at Glacier N.P. June 20, 2011
The Avalanche Creek campsite in Glacier N.P. June 20, 2011
Wildflowers in Glacier N.P. June 20, 2011
Rock outcrop in N. McDonald Creek. Check out the preferred jointing!
Your heart beat begins to quicken, causing an involuntary gasp for air. The emotion is one on high. You feel at peace with the world, like you could imagine being no where else, while at the same time being nervous about what it can bring. It is a treat for the eyes, yet it somehow entices you to close them as if it is too much to take in. You take another deep breath. The scent is relaxing, a freshness you can taste. Although it seems impossible, you feel warm and cold at the same time. Something so grand plays out in front of you that you want to immerse yourself deeply in everything it offers.
It is hard to imagine leaving this spot in time, but you know what comes next can be greater than the last. Letting your heart beat calm, and taking a last, deep breath, you push yourself forward so you can see what comes next. That step forwards sends you through the waves of emotion all over again.
This is the experience of travel. Of taking in something so much bigger than yourself.m It is amazing how a landscape can evoke feelings so akin to love. When you first round that corner as you drive up to a new place you can feel overwhelmed. The speedometer slows down as you try to take it in. Maybe you even pull over. All the while you are having these warm feelings of joy- but you also have fear. Steep, dangerous cliffs….aggressive animals that aren’t afraid of people…swift currents ready to take you away… hot steam boiling out of the ground unexpectedly. The very fact that you are standing inside of a super-volcano can be a rush itself- At any moment everything could become nothing.
These are the most rewarding moments in life. When you feel these emotions you open yourself up to what they offer. You expose you vulnerability. Something so beautiful somehow overcomes the fear, making the dangers a palatable cost. No one climbs a mountain, risking their life as they push themselves up steep ravines and cliffs, to see a land fill. We take risks to get to those ultimate feelings, and as uncomfortable as they are, we live to push our limits for a chance at achieving them. Heart racing, uneven breathing, warmth and cold washing over you in waves.
Yellowstone is one of the ultimate places to visit- it has so many different faces to evoke those feelings. From the geysers to the waterfalls, from the fields of bison to the tall, snow capped mountains, Yellowstone is a series of emotions waiting to happen.
The Mammoth Hot Springs Terraces.Yellowstone National Park. June 18, 2011.
Today we continued our journey through the park, making our way to the different waterfalls, and eventually ending up at Mammoth Hot Spring where calcite terraces tower into the air like sculpted snow, steam rising. We saw Inspiration Point, a place aptly named for what it surely does for many visitors. We drove over mountain passes with snow piled up along the side of the highway taller than our vehicles, and watched as we transitioned down and that snow created magnificent waterfalls cascading down the stone into deep cutting rivers.
One of the many rivers in Yellowstone, carving down through the richly colored rocks and sediment. June 18, 2011
We soaked it in. Took the deep breaths. Felt our hearts flutter.
If I could stay here for an eternity I would. I didn’t want to imagine being without this. Like so many days during this trip, it was a battle to leave. Whether it was on the account of my friends leaving me, or because I couldn’t get enough of the scenery I can’t tell you.
I can say this: I’m going to take that one last, deep breath. Slow my heart beat, and take that next step. I think we all know that around the corner it will start all over again. It is hard to imagine getting better than this- All that I’ve seen this far has been amazing. I think we all know, from past experience, it only gets better than this. The world awaits to make my heart skip a beat….. join me tomorrow as I continue my way.
…and don’t forget to breathe.
<3 Nicole
A Yellowstone Survey marker. I think I have a whole collections of photos of survey markers...lolYellowstone's petrified tree. There used to be a second, but early souvenir collectors took all of it, bit by bit. Now only this one remains. June 18, 2011
Yellowstone's Mammoth Hot Springs June 18, 2011
One of the (slightly comical) warnings about the wildlife. "Don't get gored by the buffalo". (Please click on picture to see undistorted & in full size)
Those of you that have known me for years know how accident prone I can be. There was the Dec. 2009 El Paso, Texas incident (click here), there was the January 2010 Cattle Blunder of New Mexico (click here), and of course who could forget the Costa Rica Weekend Plastic Disappearance of August 2010 (not yet published, to come soon I promise!!!). There are probably many others that you may remember I have not listed.
It’s no surprise: Somehow I am the luckiest accident-prone person on the planet.
I say I’m the luckiest because even though these things could be potentially life altering events, things that normally ruin your trip to the point of no return, I manage to find a way out of it safe, sound, and sometimes even better than before. Today, my friends, family and other followers, ended up being one of those days. Not bad considering I am 40 days into a trip with no major accidents as of yet.
A hot spring in the Old Faithful hydrothermal field of Yellostone National Park June 17, 2011
This morning we awoke, took a warming shower at the campground facility, and then headed towards Old Faithful where we were to meet up with our two other friends who stayed in the lodge that night. On the way we were able to see many of the things we didn’t see the night before as we wound our way along the roads in the dark: herds of buffalo, hot springs that bubbled up, and great vistas of mountains, prairie, rivers, lakes, and pines.
We arrived at Old Faithful right as it was erupting, spraying it’s heated water and steam up into the air nearly 40 feet high. After catching the eruption from the curb, we found a parking spot and found our way through the crowd to meet up with our two new party members. I saw them walking along the sidewalk away from us, and decided to run up behind them to scare them….only I made one vital mistake.
Old Faithful in Yellowstone National Park. June 17, 2011
The lifeline of my DSLR camera, that nylon strap with the yellow Nikon emblem up and down the sides, the very thing I keep around my neck at all times….was not where it was suppose to be. I had failed to swing it over my head…and the camera was just sitting atop it’s case as I skipped my way towards them. There was a tumbling of the expensive camera equipment across the concrete, and a slight moment of disbelief in what had just happened before I bolted forward to grasp the pieces before someone had a chance to run over them.
My lens had snapped off in the tumble, and at first I thought it might be ok, then lens lacking any cracks or scratches…but alas the lens wouldn’t lock into the camera body. The plastic fins that hold it in place had snapped off. Luckily my friend, who I had been trying to surprised, was observant and picked up the two, small plastic pieces to that I may have had the hope of gluing it back on. We found someone with superglue and glued the pieces on…but even after it sitting for a couple hours, the glue didn’t hold. I could still take pictures…but I had to hold my lens on with pressure to trick the camera into thinking the lens actually was attached. I want you to think about that as you enjoy the photos of this day….these pictures took a lot of work….
A boiling hot spring, a cold river behind it, and another hot spring depositing minerals beyond that. Yellowstone National Park Old Faithful area. June 17, 2011
After I calmed down over lunch, angry at myself for such a ridiculously careless move, we watched Old Faithful erupt once again, this time up close. We decided to fill our day with warm, steaming geyser goodness and took a long walking route that looped through the thermal field.
More of the amazing Yellowstone Geysers, this one about a 2 mile walk from old Faithful. June 17, 2011A colorful hot spring of Yellowstone in the Old Faithful area- note that the yellow/brown colors indicated bacteria growth.
The springs and geysers bubbled up in marvelous colors, bright blue and green in the purest of them, and yellows/browns in those that had cooled down a bit too much, allowing bacteria to grow. There were so many it was hard to believe, and everywhere you looked along the walk you could see steam rising from one place or another. The buffalo were here too, resting in the middle of the thermal field with their young calves. I really would enjoy owning a herd of bison….
The bison sleeping in the hydrothermal field. June 17, 2011 Yellowstone National Park
After we made our rounds, passing a bear warning sign on the way out that said Yellowstone is not responsible for our safety, and a slightly disturbing trail-closed due to bear activity sign on the way back, we came to yet another animal obstacle: The fuzzy cows I like to call my friends, the Bison.
The frist bear warning we saw on our trail at Yellowstone's Old Faithful area. June 17, 2011The bear warning sign on our trail in the Old Faithful area of Yellowstone at the END of our trail. June 17, 2011
They trapped us travelers on the wooden walkway, and even managed to walk up, one on each side of the trail, as if they were the guards of Old Faithful. We could hear wolves/coyotes howling in the distance as the evening was cooling the air down. Eventually the bison decided we could pass and moved on to other green pastures.
The guardians of the pathway-Bison. Yellowstone National Park June 17, 2011
On the drive back to the campsite we encountered more bison on the move, using the road as their pathway. Here at Yellowstone the fuzzy cattle know who is boss: them. They have the right of way no matter where you go, and they seem to know it very well. They are so used to people that they don’t budge from their path when a human is in it: it’s expected you will move. I think what I enjoyed most is watching the buffalo’s eyes. You can honestly see them thinking, watching you as if they know who you are and can speak to you with a gaze.
The bison making their evening trek to their night fields in Yellowstone on June 17, 2011
Yellowstone is obviously the place to be if you want to experience wildlife, and hydrothermal activity. There is a lot to take pictures of, so either pack a large memory card (or a lot of film, if that is your style) because you will need it. And remember…those nylon cords, whether they go around your wrist or your neck….are there for a reason!
Tonight we were moved to another campsite….this one with enough room to set up a tent. Hopefully this means we will get a good nights’ rest… I’ll see you tomorrow when we spend more time exploring the wonders of Yellowstone. I’ll be sure to reserve some energy to hold on my lens while taking pictures of all these places for you.
-Nicole
Bison and their calves in Yellowstone, right behind Old Faithful. June 17, 2011
Bison bones from a recent meal for the wolves. June 17, 2011 in Yellowstone National Park
How many people can identify these tracks, located in the warm hot springs of Yellowstone?
There is more than one way to eat a buffalo in Yellowstone National Park of June 17, 2011
Plants incorporated into hot spings deposits? You analyze and let me know what you think. June 17, 2011 at Yellowstone
Today we had a long drive ahead of us to Yellowstone National Park, but that wouldn’t stop us from sightseeing along the way. There were two main things to see on the trek Westward: Devil’s Tower and the site of Custer’s Last Stand, Little Bighorn Battlefield. I jumped into my Jeep, and my two friends into their truck, and we began our journey into the wild west.
Devil’s Tower is one of the geologic sites of importance that we are required to learn the location of as geology students. Today I would actually get to see this place in person, and among reading the theories of the development of Devil’s Tower, also the native stories (and there are many) that accompany it.
Devil's Tower National Monument in Wyoming. June 16, 2011
There are numerous versions of the story, and I read at least 4 different versions within a couple hours. All of them have this in common: some natives (whether they be children, villagers, sisters, etc) were trying to get away from a bear (that may or may not have been a young girl shortly before attack on the village) and the gods raised them up, the bear scratching the rock as it rose into the sky. They became a constellation in the sky.
The geologic theories are also vary, and come in three main flavors.While all theories include that it is an igneous intrusion, how it came to be as it is today has several different possibilities. Some geologists believe it to be a laccolith, an igneous intrusion that was beneath the surface of sedimentary rocks which were later eroded to expose what we see today. Others believe it was a plug of long-gone volcano that used to be in the area, and others still believe it to be other forms of igneous intrusions, the original surroundings long gone due to erosion. I guess you can take your pick as to which you believe…maybe you’ll even go with the bear story.
The Devil’s Tower was the first National Monument in 1906, and thus made Wyoming the state to host both the first National Monument and Park (Yellowstone). It is surrounded in history, an important landmark for the Plains indians. In more recent history (and to my amusement) George Hopkins decided to parachutes from an airplane in 1941 and land atop the Devil’s Tower just to show it could be done. Nevermind the fact that he was trapped there for 6 days until climbers could make their way up to rescue him.
Who can pass up drinking water from a fountain with claims like these? Devil's Tower, June 16, 2011
After climbing up the boulder field to get the closest view of Devil’s Tower you can get without a permit, and drinking the water that was ostentatiously claiming to be pure and of excellent drinking quality, we headed a little northwards so we could swing by Little Bighorn Battlefield before making our arrival, fashionably late, in Yellowstone.
The site of Custer's Last Stand. Little Bighorn Battlefield National Memorial, June 16, 2011
Little Bighorn Battlefield National Memorial is located in Montana, and it is the site of the famous Custer’s Last Stand, where the U.S. troops were defeated by the natives. It is full of historical information about the battle, and the fields are flagged with white markers indicating where soldiers met their fate. It was a pretty interesting place, and if we didn’t have somewhere to be and the weather wasn’t misting upon us we may have stayed longer to learn a bit more.
Little Bighorn Battlefield Memorial. The marker colored in black is Custer's memorial (Although he isn't actually buried here anymore, his body was moved in 1877 to another graveyard)
The last long haul to get to Yellowstone was a long, scenic drive. Montana is full of open space, where you can literally see as far as the eye can see. The mountains eventually begin to jut out of the ground as you near the western half of the state, breaking the golden sunset with snow-capped mountains. The view was beautiful, and with how honey-golden the sun was shining, I imagine it wasn’t difficult for the pioneers to be dreaming of gold in the western frontier.
A Western Montana Sunset. June 16, 2011
When we arrrived at the campsite deep within Yellowstone, the Canyon Campground, we were more than fashionably late. It was near midnight, and the near 2 feet of snow and lack of open space to set up a tent weren’t exactly encouraging. It was the middle of June and there was still an significant amount of snowpack on the ground- who knew!?
Our Canyon Campground site we "slept in" (our vehicles) on June 16, 2011 Yellowstone National Park
Well, we decided to sleep in our vehicles and see what the next day brought.
There are some experiences in your lifetime you can only have once- the first experiences. The moment when you realize those little post cards with the turquoise blue water isn’t computer enchanced- it actually exists. Custer, South Dakota is that first point in your travels West along I-90 where you start to see those beautiful mountains and vistas that stretch out so far it feels as if they are fake. It still takes my breath away, but sometimes the more exciting part is seeing someone else experience that first view. The excitement of your friends as they see something amazing they never thought could be real is about the closest you can get to that first experience again.
Custer State Park. June 15, 2011
My friends met me in the early morning, having driven all night to meet up with me in Custer. They had been detoured from the flooding in Iowa/Missouri and arrived there later than they had anticipated (intending to nap for a few hours), but they were still more than ready to explore what the area had to offer. We drove through Custer State Park first, stopping by the needles area to climb atop the rocks and take in the view. On the way through I saw what I had been searching for my entire trip: a bison. It was just casually grazing in a field to the left of our travels, and we all stopped to watch.
A bison in Custer S.P. June 15, 2011
We arrived at the North end of the park and at lunch at a local cafe that offered bison burgers, having been appetized by the live one in the park. We then headed to Mount Rushmore National Monument so we could see four of the great presidents of the past gaze eternally upon the land. It was an amazing feat, the brain child of Robinson, carried out by Borglum and son, that took 14 years to complete to the point it is today.
Mount Rushmore National Monument
After visiting the monument we went to see Jewel Cave, the second longest cave in the world (next to the cave I visited a couple weeks ago, Mammoth Cave). Jewel Cave is a bit different than the typical limestone caves we experience in the midwest. It is relatiely barren of the typical stalactite/stalagmite dripstone deposits, but is completely covered in calcite crystals. It feels like you are walking in a giant geode- And no wonder because the crystals developed in much the same way.
Calcite crystals in Jewel Cave. Custer, SD June 15, 2011
The cave was full of water, supersaturated in minerals, and they began to deposit on all surfaces of the cavern as a blanket. The deeper in the cave you are the thicker the crystals will be- a blanket of crystals that can be many feet thick. This is because as the water level dropped, the higher areas in the cave ceased to deposit while the lower areas had more time (and a more saturated solution) to continue to deposit onto the surfaces.
The cave tour is incredibly informative, and our tour guide happened to be a member of a local grotto. We were able to chat about caving in the area and the differences in midwestern caving versus caving of this area. Apparently they have much more maganese in their caves, their suits often covered black like soot after a caving trip. Our caves of the midwest tend to be wetter, and muddier, most of us coming out covered in clay and mud at the end of a cave trip.
Soda straw (the longest) in Jewel Cave, amongst the calcite crystals
After our tour of Jewel Cave we headed back to Custer, picked up some groceries, and then headed to our campsite near Stockton lake in Custer State Park. The campsite here was well shaded by the lodgepole pines, and also abundant pine needle litter to help start the fire. It was nice to sit around the fire with friends instead of being alone for once. We chatted and enjoyed the warmth while watching youtube videos on the one phone out of the three of us that had service.
Tomorrow we had a long drive ahead of us, but it would be a scenic one as we had a couple places to stop along the way. Yellostone was a good drive away, but it was something we were all looking forward to seeing- and a place where we would be meeting up with more friends to turn our party of three into a party of five.
I was enjoying this trip even more now that I had friends joining me. Part of the wonders of travel is sharing those experiences with others, and the ultimate way to do that is to have them there with you. I can take as many pictures as I want and share them all with you- but know that you can’t truly appreciate the depth and beauty of these places without going there yourself. If you chose to go to some of the places I have shared with you, please return the favor by sharing with me. Nothing makes me happier than hearing, and seeing, the wonderment of those expereincing such beautiful places for the first time.
-Nicole
A sunny day at Custer State Park June 15, 2011A chipmunk in Custer S.P. June 15, 201129 at an overlook in Custer S.P. June 15, 2011Driving through one of the many tunnels in Custer S.P. June 15, 2011Mt. Rushmore survey marker29 and the bison in Custer S.P. June 15, 2011Washington's face at Mount Rushmore. June 15, 2011Jewel Cave map Part 1Jewel Cave Map Part 2
