A valley that sits between the Blue Ridge and the Ridge & Valley parts of the Appalachian Mountains, Shenandoah is a gorgeous area full of rivers, farms, and most notably in my case, caves. Most of these caverns lie in the Beekmantown Formation of Ordovician age. Today was a chance to visit a cave of a different region to study it’s speleothem development, and to take in what Shenandoah Valley has to offer.
I had made a game plan for today and the next, but I decided to throw it out the window and go with the flow. I had no idea just how many caverns were in the area and I decided I would see at least two to get a better idea of this area’s karst development. The first cave I decided to see boasted the title of being the deepest cavern on the East coast: Natural Bridge Caverns.
The billboard at the entrance to Natural Bridge Caverns. Virginia. May 21, 2011
The cave tour wasn’t all that long, a guided tour through the caverns, and the cave wasn’t too highly decorated. Moss and bacteria covered many areas, including the limited speleothems that were present. It seems that this area is well known for the cave’s namesake, the Natural Bridge, and thus gains most of the company’s attention. Unfortunate because this cave could be a much better tour if they did a little preservation effort. The cave has two natural entrances, which may have explained the lack of speleothem development due to an increase in air flow.(Or perhaps the overlying lithology that is less permeable?)
The largest of the speleothems at Natural Bridge Caverns in Viriginia. May 21, 2011
I gathered my information and photos with scale from the cave, and more information to research later thanks to an incredibly helpful staff member behind the desk who answered my questions as honestly as he could, and admitted what he did not know. I always appreciate it when a cave tour guide admits they don’t know and offers a venue to obtain the information. The worst is when tour guides start making things up, and luckily this particular man (not my actual tour guide) of Natural Bridge Caverns was honest and helpful enough to do just that.
Some of the few soda straws in Natural Bridge Caverns. Virginia. May 21, 2011
After the cave it was time to do some country driving on my way to my KOA campsite. Shenandoah Valley is, after all, well known for it’s fantastic agricultural landscape nestled between the mountains. The view was gorgeous, rolling fields of green with the mountains standing against the sky in the background. I went to a grocery store to get something to cook at camp, having directions gained from my helpful KOA hostess. This was certainly the biggest grocery store I have ever seen. It was the size of a large Wal-Mart supercenter, yet it was all groceries! I had trouble locating my potatoes….until I realized they had their own section. The produce section of this grocery store is almost the size of the entire grocery store back in Missouri.
The KOA I stayed at for the night. I thought the sign was pretty. May 21, 2011. Shenandoah Valley, Virginia.
My campsite was pretty nice considering I am used to camping in State and National parks. KOA’s always have ample amenities thorughout the camp. My site was in a quiet, forested area near a small brook that trickled along. I was able to cook my food (while holding my breath, it turns out the Jalapenos from this monster of a grocery store were extra powerful and I couldn’t breath near my food while cooking..!!!) and settle down in front of my fire (which consisted of the fire starters, the logs never set….ha ha…) in peace and quiet.
My campsite at the Shenandoah Valley KOA (Firestarted burning, not the logs..ha ha!)
Tomorrow I plan to visit another cave of the Shenandoah Valley, and I have a couple ideas. I don’t know which one I’ll stop at for sure. Sometimes it’s best to play it by ear rather than have it planned. What I do know is that I will have fun no matter where I go. Adventurous spirits don’t find adventurous places, they find adventure everywhere, and anywhere, they go. Until tomorrow’s adventure-
Nicole
The grocery store even had a wide variety of different tomatoes. This was called the heritage tomatoe. It was tasty in my beef, potatoe, onion & jalapeno stir fry. May 21, 2011The view on the way to my KOA campsite in Shenandoah Valley, Virginia. May 21, 2011
Travel is something of an addiction. After traveling to places of geologic, historic and cultural importance you find the desire to see more. Some people collect items, like model cars, stamps and coins. Traveling is a hobby of collection that is insatiable, there is so much to see and such a short life to see it in. So why would I want to return to some places, like the Biltmore, that I have already visited? It boils down to a simple fact: the travelers of the world collect memories.
The Biltmore Estate Home.Front facade. May 20, 2011
Often visiting something once simply isn’t enough because the place offers so much to experience. Memories come in many colors, whether it be gained knowledge, culture, experience, friendship and more we seek to add them into our mind banks. The Biltmore Estate is so much more than the largest home in America. It is one of the first successful lanscaping forestry projects, thousands of acres covered in local and exotic plants, a winery, a working farm, hiking trails, animals, shopping, gourmet foods and more. Every season, every year, is a differend experience. This year I went to visit with a good friend of mine who moved to North Carolina a few years ago and lived reasonably close to Asheville, the city created by the Biltmore Estate.
The baby goats at Biltmore Estate kept trying to eat my shoe laces. Only a few weeks old. May 20, 2011
The large home bulit by George Vanderbilt in the late 1800s, which takes up 4 acres of floor space (That’s 174, 240 square feet!!!!) is the center attraction of the 125,000 acre Biltmore Estate. Designed by Richard Morris Hunt (founder of the American Institute of Architects and designer of great works like the pedestal for the statue of liberty) the house took only 6 years to complete. A marvelous feat for a home that was so detailed, and the size of over 80 average sized homes combined!
The Nursery at Biltmore Estate. May 20, 2011
The grounds were designed by landscape architect Frederick Law Olmsted, the pioneer of American Landscape architectecture and forestry. There are gardens galore to walk through, a beautiful pond, a large, stately nursery and beautiful forested grounds. You could spend days looking at nothing by the grounds and still not see all of it, not to mention that it changes every season with different plants in bloom and different annuals in the ground/ in the nursery.
One of the many statues in the Italian Garden of the Biltmore Estate. May 20, 2011
The running of Biltmore Estate is a remarkable feat. A private home until 1956, the estate is one of the only self-sufficient National Historic Landmarks, receiving no grants or government funding to continue restoration and availability to the public. The admission fee is a little more expensive than many places, around $50, but there is simply so much to offer that it is well worth it. If you sign up for the newsletter you get discounts in an email. Three days before my visit to the Biltmore Estate I received an email offering 50% off admission price.
My friend and I were able to tour the house, where no photography is allowed, and then wander around the estate (all at our own pace). We both agreed that to truly drink in all the Biltmore Estate has to offer you would have to be here for several days. Every corner you turn there is something more to see. There is a hotel on the grounds you can stay at and I have often thought of spending a nice 4-day weekend here.
One of the numerous Hydrangeas at Biltmore Estate this time of year. I love anything that is blue. May 20, 2011
I absorbed as much of the Biltmore Estate as I could, and then we headed back home. Tomorrow was to be another day in the life of a traveler, and it was time to head north and visit a state I had never been to before, along with a new cavern in a geoologic province I had never been to before. Time to store this memory, and ready to collect more.
See you then,
Nicole
One of the many orchids in the nursery at Biltmore Estate. May 20, 2011I have discovered that among the many plants I love, Gardenia is one of them. Someone buy me one? Biltmore Estate, May 20, 2011Some flowers at the Biltmore Estate, May 20, 2011One of the baby goats at the Biltmore Estate farm, trying to eat my camera case. May 20, 2011The baby goats at the Biltmore Estate farm were just too cute!!! May 20, 2011The Belgian horses of Biltmore Estate. May 20, 2011
Waterfalls can teach us all something. The water rushes along it’s riverbed powerfully, rounding the edges of boulders and taking with it anything that happens to land within its grasp. Throughout it’s entire path, the water is never as powerful as when it lets go and falls, absent of boundaries, down the edge of a cliff and into a big pool on the bottom. Sometimes to take life by the horns you literally have to let go.
One of the best tips I could give anyone about traveling is to have big gaps in time not planned. I had thought I would sleep in today, but I found out something interesting as I was checking in to my campsite last night: Waterfalls. South Carolina is full of them. The tantalizing thought of going on a waterfall hunt was too much to resist, so I woke up early and began my waterfall hunt armed with a guide from the Devil’s Fork S.P. camp store.
Heading back into South Carolina after a short "detour". May 19, 2011
Luckily the hang tag I was given for my campsite is also good at many State Parks, so I had no additional park use fees to hunt the waterfalls. The first falls on the agenda was Twin Falls. I misread the directions and spent an extra 40 minutes of driving along a winding mountain road, all the way into North Carolina. It turned out to be a fortous mistake, and I let the road dictate where I went next. I found butterflies galore, picturesque roads winding through emerald mountain forests, some hairpin turns the very image of those car advertisements. I was even able to be in two places at once, as I got out of my Jeep at the state line of North and South Carolina and put on foot on each side.
Standing in two places at once. My left foot in North carolina, my right foot in South Carolina. May 19, 2011Grafitti on a rock outcrop in South Carolina along my "detour" route. May 19, 2011
I did manage to backtrack my way to Twin Falls. Located at the end of a rural road in Northwestern South Carolina, the finale of a beautiful 1/4 mile walk through the woods on a narrow path along Reedy Cove Creek. The water rushes over 70 feet of bare granite falling in two seperate curtains of water (hence why it is called Twin Falls, although it is also known as Eastatoe Falls). The water is cool, and as with all falls it sends a vapor of water into the air making the immediate environment feel a bit cooler than the rest.
Twin Falls, AKA Eastatoe Falls. May 19, 2011Standing in front of Twin Falls (AKA Eastatoe Falls) in South Carolina. May 19, 2011A boulder of Granite floating in a pool of water in Granite. May 19, 2011 at Twin Falls South Carolina
After I spent some time at Twin Falls I decided it was time to find another waterfall, so I settled on seeing a few things along the route to my next stop in North Carolina. The next waterfall sits right along Highway 11 in South Carolina, known as Wildcat Branch Falls. It isn’t all that large, but it is rather beautiful and easy to find.
South Carolina's Wildcat Branch Falls May 19, 2011Flowers at Wildcat Branch Falls in South Carolina. May 19, 2011
Next up was one of the most sought after waterfalls anyone wants to see: Raven’s Cliff Falls. It was described as being a 2 mile hike to see the falls, but also well worth it. Raven’s Cliff Falls is a full 420′ tall, cascading down theblue ridge escarpment to a pool below. (It occurs where the Blue Ridge Province drops 2000′ down to the Piedmont Province for you geology folks) I regularly walk a 6 mile loop at home, so I figured 2 miles would be easy enough. I forgot to include the mountain terraine in my calculations of time. Not only that, but the 2 mile trek only led to a distant view of the falls. If I wanted to see the falls up close, I would have had to hike another 3+ miles along a route that descends 2000 feet, and reascends the 2000 feet in this distance, adding another 4 hours to my hike.
The trail to Raven's Cliff Falls. May 19, 2011Azaleas on the trail to Raven's Cliff Falls. May 19, 2011
Never the less, the walk was beautiful with all the Azaleas and various plants in bloom. Every twist and turn in the path led to another view of white, pink, red, yellow and blue blossoms. It was truly late Spring here in South Carolina.
A bloom on the ground on the way to Raven's Cliff Falls South Carolina. May 19, 2011
Unfortunately I did not have time to attempt this additional hike, but I would love to return. If you plan on visiting the Raven’s Cliff Falls area I highly recommend spending the entire day there, if not more. There is a nearby South Carolina state park called Cesar’s Head State Park. The drive is yet another beautiful one, Highway 276 curves through the emerald green forests of South Carolina. There are numerous trails to follow in the 40,000 acres of preserve, an area preserved by the Mills and Moore families of South Carolina until 1981 when South Carolina took possession of the land to be protected for years to come.
Raven's Cliff Falls in South Carolina. May 19, 2011
The waterfalls in South Carolina are countless, yet they all give in to the world around them. There is always a time to carve your own path through the granite, and a time to fall and let the world take us where we should be. We may get to carve the path to the best falls, but all of us fall from time to time. The success lies in how we view that fall. If we view the fall as our ability to show how strong we can be in the most helpless of times, then we all succeed. True happiness doesn’t come from suceeding in easy times, it comes from surviving in the times we can’t control.
Tomorrow I will be visiting a grand home in North Carolina with a good friend of mine who moved to the area a couple years ago. I have already been there once, and so has she, but we both enjoy it so much we had to see it again. Where will we be going? Well I guess you’ll just have to flow with the water and find out where…..
Until the bottom of the waterfall,
-Nicole
Some butterflies I found on my way to Twin Falls in South Carolina. May 19, 2011The short 1/4 mile walk to Twin Falls in South Carolina. May 19, 2011South Carolina's Twin Falls (AKA Eastatoe Falls) May 19, 2011Raven's Cliff Falls from a distance. May 19, 2011. South Carolina. The sign that made me decide that a distant view of Raven's Cliff Falls was good enough...for today. May 19, 2011The trails at Mountain Bridge Wilderness Area, near Ceasar's Head State Park May 19, 2011
The transition of deep south climate to one a bit cooler had already taken place in Northern Georgia, but I was still getting used to it. The lack of moss draping from the trees was still something new to me, but every region has a beauty to it. I prefer to stay at state and national parks because they usually have a nucleus of some sort of natural or historic wonder. Last night I had stayed at Watson Mill, which was based on the beautiful covered bridge build in 1885, and tonight I was headed for Devil’s Fork S.P. in South Carolina, near the city of Salem. I had read a few reviews saying that it was a nice place to camp, and so I expected something at least decent. I kept thinking that eventually I’ll find a bad egg, but yet again I was surprised by a beautiful camp ground that sits in the woods along the coast of Lake Jocassee. I could see the water from my campsite so I set up my tent in a hurry to walk down to the water.
Lake Jocassee as seen from the Devil’s Fork State Park campground. May 18, 2011
The water was beautiful, I didn’t know that such a blue color existed in waters beyond the Bahamas. Lake Jocassee is aa man-made lake created in 1973 for both recreation and hydroelectricity production (at the 385’ tall dam). The shore of the lake that sits against the campground consists mostly of exposed metamorphic rock outcrops that have been highly weathered. The ones that stick out of the water literally crumble with your hand. I tried to find more detailed information about the geology of the area prior to the damming of the lake but I have had no luck. Feel free to comment, or send an e-mail to geojeep.com@gmail.com if you have more information. I would love to know, and love to share it with my readers.
Metamorphic rocks outcropping in Lake Jocassee, South Carolina. May 18, 2011Metamorphic Rock outcrop on Lake Jocassee, lens cap for scale. May 18, 2011Close up showing how it crumbles easily into sand. Metamorphic Rock outcrop on Lake Jocassee, South Carolina, May 18 2011
I had planned this day to be a relaxing day, so I spent most of it at camp resting on the shoreline. I cooked my sausage over the campfire, and spent the evening in my chair reading Simon Winchester’s novel “A Crack in the Edge of the World: America and the Great California Earthquake of 1906”. It was a much needed relaxing evening, in the beautiful surroundings of Devil’s Fork.
Lake Jocassee at Devil’s Fork State Park South Carolina. May 18, 2011Lake Jocassee at Devil’s Fork State Park, South Carolina. May 18, 2011
Nothing worthwhile is achieved without great effort. How you can determine how truly dedicated you are to a cause is by evaluating how long you are willing to try before giving up. Working hard really does pay off, whether it be the intended result or not. Sometimes the result is even better.
The Geology Dept. Banner at the University of Georgia. May 17 2011
Today I slept in a little, with a drive of only 4 hours planned for the day. I was going to head from Savannah Georgia to Athens, Georgia, the hometown of one of my graduate school hopefuls. I had been emailing one of the higher up faculty there in hopes of meeting them while I was here, but unfortunately both of the gentlemen I had been talking to were going to be gone during this part of the summer. Since I had still planned on being in the area I figured it would still be worth a campus visit so I could at least see the campus, the geology building, and the town of Athens and get a feel for the area.
The Hydrangea at the University of Georgia. May 17, 2011
I arrived in Athens about 3pm, and after finding a visitor parking area, I wandered around the campus (with guidance from the campus map board that was stationed near my parking garage). The University of Georgia is quite larger than what I am used to navigating. I don’t know how big Athens really is, but I’m pretty sure that the U of G consumes almost all of it. The campus is really pretty, well landscaped with local plants like blue hydrangea, lilies, and various trees. Every nook and cranny between buildings is well landscaped to include benches and gathering places. It seems no matter where you go you would feel like you have found your own personal oasis. Perhaps this is because it is summer and most of the students and faculty are absent, but I’d like to pretend it is like this all year around.
I dont know why I take a picture of the university stadiums, I don't really follow college sports. None-the-less, here is the University of Georgia's stadium. May 17, 2011
I found the shared Geology/Geography building with little difficulty. The building was open so I went in and wandered. As with all schools, everything was clearly labeled, and those that weren’t were easy to distinguish. The floor with the rocks was the geology floor. The floor with the giant globe would be the geography floor….in general. I was reading the directory and then looking at some pictures when I noticed a familiar name on one of them. It was the very man who was coauthor of the research the man I had been communicating with published. Not even two minutes later I see a walking image of the picture I had just been examining, so I stop and ask if it was indeed him.
The Geography/Geology building at the University of Georgia. May 17, 2011
I had caught him at a perfect time, he says. He was just wandering the building, bored, and considering visiting the library to do some mindless reading. He would be more than happy to show me around and talk to me about what the University of Georgia has to offer. We sat and talked about speleothems from different parts of the world for a time, and then he showed me some of the research they were doing now, opening up the labs and showing me specimens. He told me what type of TA and RA offers they typically make- most of the information I need to know to make a solid decision. I was incredibly lucky to have met him, as he is well known in the field. I had considered for a short moment not visiting the campus since the two men I had been communicating with weren’t going to be there, but I was still determined to get as much information as I can. It turns out the determination paid off, well. That makes 2 grad school potentials down, only 3 more to visit to get a good idea of who offers what.
Some of the local produce I picked up at a roadside fruit stand in Georgia. May 17, 2011The white peaches I got, first of the season, from a local produce stand in Georgia. May 17, 2011
After my visit with the University of Georgia I headed off to my next campsite: Watson Mill Bridge State Park. On the way to Athens to visit the University of Georgia I had stopped by a local fruit stand and picked up some local produce. I purchased 4 1st-of-the-season white peaches (grown from the standowners orchards), 1 ripe tomato, 1 vidalia onion (from Vidalia, GA, so the real deal), and a few potatoes- all for about $3. You can’t beat that. After stopping by a grocery store to pick up some sausage to slice up, and the leftover jalepeno from my cajun hobo dinner I cooked in Gulf State Park on Day 5, I had a really good dinner in the making.
My tasty dinner made of local produce (and a jalepeno and sausage). May 17, 2011 Watson Mill Bridge State Park Georgia
It turns out the park was absolutely gorgeous. I yet again had chosen the best park I could have in the area. The campsites were large, and the entire area was less than half occupied, there was a quaint wooden covered bridge, the nucleus of the park itself, and trails, waterfalls and more. I had to cook dinner and then eat it while walking on the trails I was so excited to experience them before dark.
My campsite at Watson Mill Bridge State Park in Georgia. May 17, 2011
The place stimulates each of the five senses: The smell of warm cedar. The sound of falling water. The sight of stone mill ruins and a covered bridge. The taste of camp cooked food. And the feel of a cooler, forested climate. It all added up to the fact that I had made the transition from the humid, warm south (which I did love) to the beginnings of the Appalachian Mountains. I was still in the state of Georgia, but something had clearly changed.
The old Mill Ruins you can find if you walk along the trails at Watson Mill State Park in Georgia. May 17, 2011
I couldn’t get enough of the park. I had planned the next day to be leisurely so I stayed there until almost check out time, taking pictures and relaxing in the canopy of the cedars and other trees. I was tempted to stay there another night, but I had already planned to visit another well-acclaimed state park up in South Carolina: Devil’s Fork State Park. I am determined to experience as much of America as I can on this trip, and my dedication had paid off today- It will certainly pay off tomorrow. I’ll see you there-
Nicole
The covered bridge that crosses the river that runs over a lot of granitic rocks. May 17, 2011 at Watson Mill Bridge State ParkTaking pictures of Watson Mill Bridge in Northern Georgia. May 17, 2011
As I have stated before in my Day 2 Water World, water is incredibly important to the success of a community. Not only is it a necessity of life, but it is also a viable means of transportation. While the advent of motorized vehicles made travel over land easier, it is still more efficient when shipping large amounts of goods to use waterways. No man-made transportation system, even trains, can transport such a large amount of goods on one vessel. This is why so many of the larger cities in the world, especially those of industry, are built upon waterways that can support this sort of transportation. The city of Savannah was built upon the banks of the Savannah River for this very purpose and the river was used for trade, and still is today. The exchange of goods isn’t the only thing that rivers provide: it is also an exchange of cultures, and sometimes the very founding blocks of a city’s soul.
One of the ships at Savannah's port. May 16, 2011
Savannah was the starting place for the colony of Georgia, beginning in 1733. James Oglethorpe arrived on the British galley “Anne” in this year, in Charleston, SC with 144 colonists and supplies to set up a port on the southern banks of the Savannah River. The city was built upon his design, the streets in a grid pattern with plenty of space for public buildings.
The Savannah Cotton Exchange building. May 16, 2011The cobble walks of Savannah, shaded by large oaks with spanish moss. May 16, 2011
Cotton was Savannah’s main export, and during the time it boasted the badge of being the top cotton export of the Atlantic, and the 2nd of the entire world. Over 2 million bales of cotton were moved through the port of Savannah every year during cotton’s peak. The port was used heavily throughout the 18th cenury, and in the 19th century they decided to put all of those cobbles used as ballasts in ships to good use. The urban geology (click here for my definition of urban geology) of Savannah is thus varied, having stones from all over the world incorporated into the streets and retaining walls. They come from places like the American Northeastern coast, Maritime Canada, Portugal, Spain, France, Madeira and more. A mix of many different rock types from the igneous (Basalt, Granite) to the sedimentary (sandstone, chert, limestone and more).
An old anchor on Savannah's River street, a local muscian plays alongside the fountain.
Today Savannah is still a major port, shipping out large amounts of goods on a regular basis. The ships are HUGE, it almost seems unnatural to see them floating through the river. While exports are still important, tourism is the Savannah prosperity of today, with thousands of visitors flocking to explore the beautiful city every day.
These ships are HUGE. Each of those containers are what typically sits on a semi truck. Do you see the person in orange for scale? No? Look at the next picture for a closer look.There he is, my little scale man. This ship is HUGE! Makes you wonder how deep the Savannah River actually is.... May 16, 2011
Savannah has a wide selection of excellent restaurants, everything from seafood to Italian. I went to “Vic’s on the River” as recommended by the lady who checked me into my hotel. The food was fantastic, the service was great, and the view from the balcony was beautiful. A quick storm passed through while I ate and enjoyed a half-bottle of wine, and afterward the sun came back out and a rainbow appeared. A sign of good fortune to me.
Inside the restaurant "Vic's on the River" in the River district of Savannah. Some of the very large wine selection offered at Vic's in Savannah, GA. May 16, 2011
The meals run between 20 and 30, so a little more pricey than I usually dine at, but the portions are large and the chef’s creations are wonderful. When you are eating at a restaurant like this, don’t insult the chef: order as it is described in the menu and don’t season until you’ve tasted. It always irks me when I am in a nice restaurant and a customer wants to order it without this and with this…it’s an insult. At a restaurant like this the chefs work hard to create a recipe that tastes just right. Enjoy it as it is. I enjoyed a large fillet of local flounder, breaded in Georgia pecans, with a citrus butter glaze atop potatoes and sausage. It was…delicious!!!
My meal at Vic's: Pecan encrusted local flounder atop pototoes and sausage with a citrus butter sauce. Mmmmmm May 16, 2011The rainbow that came out over the Savannah River, viewed from Vic's on the River's balcony. May 16, 2011
There are plenty of unique shops to explore, and although shopping isn’t quite my thing I found a few inexpensive trinkets, like a decorated mask and some earrings. There was also a shop that had everything made from bee products (the honey and the wax). It was quite an interesting store, and they have a large variety of different honey to sample and purchase. Many honey farms restrict their bees to certain areas of flowers (I.E. citrus, the tupelo plant, clover, etc) and it gives the honey a distinct flavor, texture and color. For more information, visit their website www.savannahbee.com
The Savannah Bee Company. Savannah River District. Georgia. May 16, 2011.A small selection of the types of honey the Savannah Bee Company offers. May 16, 2011
While I prefer to camp for several reasons outlined previously, there are some places where it just makes more sense to stay in a hotel. Savannah is one of those places. I was able to enjoy a wonderful free breakfast in the morning, free internet, a hot tub, and a comfortable bed. I don’t always stay at hotels, but when I do I stay at Choice Hotels (Comfort Inn, Comfort Suites, etc). They have the best breakfasts, decent rates, and they even have a free points card to redeem free nights. It is usually best, if you choose to travel via hotel, to pick a chain you like and stick to it so you can earn free nights. It is the best value you can get while staying in a hotel and you know what to expect at each location.
Savannah is a great place to visit, but tomorrow it is time to head towards the University of Georgia to see what the area has to offer. I’m starting my journey towards the northeast, just when I became used to seeing spanish moss draping from large oaks and large swampy area. I will have to say goodbye to the deep south, but I will not be saying goodbye to the river ways. Each river city has its own distinct culture, based upon their own goods for trade. I can’t recall right now which river is next along my journey, but for now it’s time to head towards the Carolinas and enjoy my last day in Georgia. See you all soon-
Nicole
"A World Apart", The WWII Memorial in Savannah, GA. May 16, 2011Being from a smaller town, I walk into a building expecting it to be what the sign on the outside says. Apparently each floor has it's own shop. Savannah, GA. May 16, 2011The back alley of Savannah's river district, paved in ballast cobbles. May 16, 2011This is the back view of that ship I saw float through Savannah... can you believe how big this is??? May 16, 2011My new mask from Savannah, GA. I love it! May 16, 2011
Luck. It’s one of those whimsical ideas that is often tied to symbolic findings like a four-leaf clover and a bird that drops a little present on your head in flight. Something many don’t truly believe in, yet so many people seem to have it. The Spanish appear to have had luck when they stumbled upon St. Augustine, the lighthouse of the same settlement seems to have had tremendous luck, and even I have had many good hands dealt my way. Luck- Could it be real?
I got up early this morning, a busy day of sightseeing on the books, and headed to the only WiFi access point in Anastasia State Park, located at the beach shop. I settled down in the rising sun with my laptop, uploading pictures of the previous day for all of you to enjoy, when I noticed a few people collecting at the beach. One man was sitting up at the beach overlook deck with a camera on a tripod, and a few people were trickling their ways onto the beach. They weren’t wearing beach attire, nor was it warm enough to swim if they had been. I dismissed it as a group family photo in the making and went about my business. Soon more people began to show up, all toting their DSLR cameras and chatting a little too lively for such an early hour on the east coast. Then someone approached me: “Are you going to watch the shuttle launch?”.
The launch of Shuttle Endeavour as viewed from Anastasia State Park Beach. May 16, 2011.
I almost leapt out of my seat- could it really be that today was the day that they launched the space shuttle Endeavour? It turns out it certainly was- and I was close enough to Cape Canaveral to see if from my vantage on the beach. I was totally unprepared to take such a photograph, so the few that I did get aren’t all that great- but I did get them, and I did get to see it launch. Many thought this was the last launch of the shuttle Endeavour, but according to news articles this was the next-to-last.
If you guys are really hard core about seeing the shuttle launch keep updated on the real “last launch”. Maybe you can find a way to venture out there? Even if you can’t get down to Cape Canaveral, you now know of a great place to camp out and view it from: Anastasia State Park. According to the volunteer who stands atop St. Augustine Lighthouse once a week, this launch view wasn’t as good as it usually is due to some haze. He has been living in St. Augustine since the 1980s, and hasn’t missed a launch since. He even got to work early so he could view the launch from atop the lighthouse. If you are lucky enough, perhaps you can watch the last ever launch of Endeavour from atop the lighthouse.
The St. Augustine Lighthouse. May 16, 2011. Every lighthouse has it's own distinct scheme so that ships can recognize where they are. Climbing up isn't bad, it's climbing down that makes me nervous everytime. St. Augustine Lighthouse.
The St. Augustine Lighthouse was my first planned trip of the day. I had already visited the lighthouse once, but it is something worth seeing again. The current lighthouse stands 165’ high and has been standing there since 1874. It is built of brick and steel, both crafted here in the U.S., and is the oldest standing brick structure of St. Augustine. When you visit you have to climb 219 stairs to reach the top (sound exhausting, it is!).
A small sample of the stairs of St Augustine Lighthouse. May 16, 2011The stairs are very pretty to look at. St. Augustine Lighthouse May 16, 2011
Many Florida lighthouses had a lot of trouble staying upright: the soft sands of the coast proved to be a less-than-stable base for the heavier lighthouses of the late 1800’s. St. Augustine has a sturdy layer of coquina for the lighthouse to sit atop, keeping it from the same fate of many other lighthouses in the state. The lighthouse has had several close calls, such as Hurricane Dora and a few other hurricanes, and a couple earthquakes. Fortunately (and perhaps luckily?) the St. Augustine lighthouse has stood tall. (Visit their website at www.staugustinelighthouse.com)
This funny mirror was on the ground. It made for a neat vantage point for a picture. St. Augustine Lighthouse May 16, 2011The view of Castillo de Sand Marcos as you drive past. May 16, 2011. St. Augustine Florida
It was now time to see to the Castillo de San Marcos, the oldest masonry fort in the continental U.S. Built by the Spanish beginning in 1671, the fort was something to be feared by many enemies. In 1702 British naval & land forces attacked St. Augustine and a not-yet-completed Catillo de San Marcos. The British destroyed the city, but were unable to take on the fort and retreated. In 1728 British troops once again decided to march into St. Augustine, but saw the fort and promptly turned around and left. In 1740 the British governor of Georgia also attacked St. Augustine, but could not capture the fort.
The view of the entrance of Castillo de San Marco when standing atop the fort. May 16, 2011. St. Augustine, FL.
Why was the fort so impenetrable? Was it because of the architectural layout or the cannons? Probably this, and due to the building material provided to the Spanish from Anastasia island, the very rock that the St. Augustine lighthouse stood upon many years later: Coquina.
Close-up of a coquina block at the quarry. St. Augustine, FL Anastasia S.P. May 16, 2011
Geology time: So what is this coquina stuff, anyways? Literally “coquina” translates from Spanish to “tiny shellfish”. Aptly named, coquina is a type of limestone composed of shells, clay and sand that have been chemically bonded together. It may look brittle, but trust me when I say the stuff is tuff, I tested a block of it. So, where did it come from?
The coquina quarry (A historic site) in Anastasia S.P. St Augustine, FL May 16, 2011
Luckily my campsite hosts the spot where the Spanish started quarrying the coquina in 1671. I was able to visit it and learn a bit about the geology of the area. In the Pleistocene epoch there were a series of glaciation/melting patterns that allowed shells, clay and sand to accumulate during the high sea levels, and to cement together when it was exposed to rainwater during times of low sea levels. This developed the Anastasia formation, a formation that stretched from the Northern end of Anastasia Island all the way south to Palm Beach, FL (250 miles long) and is about 330 miles wide, most of it stretching into the Atlantic Ocean.
The wall built of shells. The coquina blocks of the Castillo de San Marco.
The coquina is a very strong rock when dry, so to cut it the Spanish settlers would cut the stone while it was wet, and then allow it to dry for up to a year before incorporating it into the Castillo. It was such a useful building product that one third of St. Augustine’s buildings were made of it by 1764. The Spanish were very (lucky, perhaps?) to have such a building material readily available.
It seems that in the case of my observation of shuttle Endeavour, the long-standing life of St. Augustine Lighthouse and the Spanish settler’s find of the coquina to build the Castillo all speak for the case of luck. It must be real, then…Luck has it. Right?
Let’s look back on the reality of the situation. St. Augustine Lighthouse was built in 1874 to replace a Spanish watchtower built in the late 1500’s. The old watch tower tumbled to the sea in a storm in 1880. It stood for 300 years, a span of time yet to be proven by the “New” St. Augustine Lighthouse. The Castillo de San Marcos was built beginning in the 1670s to replace the 9th (yes, you read right, NINTH!) fort since 1565. It seems that all of these events add up to being in the right place at the right time. It may seem like luck, but it is actually due to ingenuity and being able to see the bright side of things no matter what. The Spanish and other settlers of St. Augustine were smart enough to use what was available to them on their very own Anastasia island, buried beneath the sand dunes and soil (called hammocks). We all know I have had my fair share of mishaps- and the fact that I was able to see something as spectacular as the shuttle launch isn’t due to luck: It is due to my dedication to adventure and putting myself in places where things can, and will, happen.
If you are sitting around waiting for your luck to turn around you aren’t going to get much. Luck isn’t a rabbit’s foot on a keychain or eating black eyed peas on New Year’s Day. Luck is constructed out of your own determination and will. Created by you, for you, by continuing to push forward even after you fail again and again. Don’t let the first 9 fallen forts force you to give up. Look around you, use the tools you have been given, and manifest your own destiny.
Some colorful beetles (or something of the like) at the coquina quarry in Anastasia S.P. May 16, 2011Chocolates from Whetstone Chocolates of St. Augustine. I had a small snack from here- I was saving my calories (and my money) for a fabulous dinner in Savannah tonight. May 16, 2011Whetstone Chocolates of St. Augustine. Very good stuff. They even have chocolate dipped bananas, a personal fave.I'm standing in the watch tower of the Castillo de San Marco. May 16, 2011The view down a canon if you were getting ready to take down an enemy ship at the Castillo de San Marco in st. AugustineThe sanctuary at Castillo de San Marco, the font on the wall and the altar on the left side of the pic. May 16, 2011While I toured the Castillo de San Marco National Park officials took precautions to preserve artifacts by vacuumn air out of a case to reduce humidity. May 16, 2011Where the men would sleep at Castillo de San Marco while on duty (They didn't live at the fort)Some of the lighthouse prisms at St. Augustine Lighthouse (when you get to the top and are looking at the light, look up!)
I'm about to ascend all of those stairs- all 219 of them! May 16, 2011 St. Augustine Lighthouse
I climbed all the way to the top of St. Augustine Lighthouse…again! May 16, 2011
The roots of the sea oat plant can be 10 times the size of the plant above the sand. A grass like plant that whips around in the wind at the surface has deep ties into the sand it calls home. The roots are designed to allow the sea oat to survive on the sand dunes, where a large root surface area allows the scarce water to be found. The mosses that are so prevalent in the south, however, have no extensive roots to speak of. They are superficial, and even allow the plants to move from one place to another and survive. All of us have roots, some deeper set than others, that allow us to survive. Today I was headed for St. Augustine, Florida, the oldest city in the U.S. A place that has roots reaching back centuries, making the town what it is today.
The moon lit sea at Anastasia State Park Beach. May 15, 2011
I met a high school friend for breakfast at Datz, a tasty restaurant in Tampa, FL that is fairly popular in the area. The breakfast menu was varied, every menu item having a Datz personal twist. My friend and I both ordered a latte, which came in a soup bowl-sized coffee cup, lending to plenty of time to chat about our lives and catch up. The breakfast was delicious and afterwards my friend showed me their chocolate case: Rows and rows of hand-painted chocolates. I was unable to taste any, but they sure looked beautiful. I imagine they are bought more for the beauty than for the taste, each piece being artistically hand painted.
The hand-painted candies at Datz in Tampa, FL. May 15, 2011The biggest latte I've ever had at Datz in Tampa, FL. May 15, 2011
I have a blast driving my Jeep with the top down. This is near Orlando, on my way from Tampa to St. Augustine. May 15, 2011
The drive from Tampa to St. Augustine was beautiful. I was able to put the top back down on my Jeep after having it up for the night in Tampa (luckily, because a storm rolled through that night) and enjoy the sun and “natural” air conditioning that a highway drive is able to provide. At a gas station I met two other Jeep Wrangler owners. They knew about yesterday’s holiday (National “Go Topless” day for all Jeep owners), which of course made me smile. There is nothing quite like owning a Jeep….it’s like belonging to a special club, where everyone waves to fellow Jeep-owning strangers and we can all talk like we’ve known each other for years. If you are the adventurous type and you don’t own one, you should. You are seriously missing out.
Anastasia State Park Beach. The sand is so white! May 15, 2011.
After a quick stop at a citrus stand to get some local oranges, I arrived in St. Augustine to some familiar sites. First and foremost, the St. Augustine lighthouse (which I will go visit tomorrow, stay tuned for pictures and information on my next update). I checked into my campsite at Anastasia State Park, and when I first drove up to my tent site I knew instantly this would be my new favorite camping site.
My campsite at Anastasia State Park. May 15, 2011
Each site is tucked away in it’s own private alcove, similar to that of Tickfaw State Park a few days earlier, except this is even better: It’s on an island, and you can head the waves crashing on the beach in the distance. The beach is a short walk away, where the sand is white and the ocean sparkling. Every site has electric and water hook ups, which isn’t necessary for a tent, but nice for people like me who have a website to update and need to recharge electronics. The price isn’t terribly high for what it offers, either. Anastasia State Park is the perfect place to stay if you are looking to camp on the coast.
The Santa Maria Restaurant in St Augustine, FL
I decided to have dinner at Santa Maria’s, a unique restaurant I dined at my last trip to St. Augustine in January of 2007. It turns out May is a much better time of year to dine at Santa Maria’s in St. Augustine: You get to feed the fish. The restaurant is located on the end of a pier with a great view of Lion’s Bridge. The tables along the outside of the restaurant, again the windows, are provided with a little hatch where you can drop pieces of bread, provided by the basket full, into the water and watch the various fish come up to enjoy. I guess you can say you are fattening up the fish that you may eat later.
The window you open to drop bread to the fish at Santa Maria Restaurant in St Augustine, FL. May 15, 2011Name this bird: in St Augustine, FL at the Santa Maria Restaurant. May 15, 2011
The fish aren’t the only ones to enjoy the bread. Various birds, including pigeons, crows and another colorful little bird I do not know the species (readers, identify below! J ). Kids really enjoy this activity (and the kid inside me), and I had the pleasure of meeting a 1st grade girl who enjoyed every minute of it. She and her family were visiting from Pennsylvania and we had a wonderful conversation over dinner. Another great thing about being on the road: you meet a lot of friendly people.
The little girl feeding the pigeons at Santa Maria Restaurant in St Augustine, FL. May 15, 2011
After dinner I headed back to Anastasia State Park so that I could sit on the beach and take some night pictures. The moon was nearing full this night and it lit up the beach and the waves. I was able to enjoy a peaceful time alone on the beach, watching the waves crash and although the sky was mostly clear the lightening illuminate the horizon in little bursts-a storm nearly 200 miles away. I didn’t even need a flashlight, though I guess when you are a caver nothing is dark in comparison. The stars, moon and city lights are more than enough illumination in the night against the contrast of the white sands of the St. Augustine coast.
The coast of St. Augustine is held together by the roots of the sea oat, a 6” plant having roots up to 5’ long. Whlie we all have roots of different depths, we do all have roots. They don’t only keep us grounded, providing for us- They are an integral part of our society as a whole. Everyone plays a role in this world, some of us are nomads like the spanish moss that can easily be transplanted, and some of us have roots reaching deep into the sands of our native homes. Either way, the nutrients we have gathered from each place we live sustain us for a lifetime- each place becomes a part of us. It’s why I believe so strongly in traveling for education. A traveler who truly takes the initiative to learn about the geology, environment and culture of each place they visit is adding a little bit to themselves each time. I think too many people consider traveling a vacation by traditional terms. A true traveler isn’t meant to get away and do nothing- they enrich their lives, and thus everyone around them, by absorbing the knowledge of other places- and sharing.
These flowers decorate St. Augustine everywhere. A bee is doihg it's job. May 15, 2011I'm enjoying the sun at Anastasia State Park in FL. May 15, 2011.Lion's Bridge in St Augustine, drawn up every half hour to let ships through.A flower along the walk in St. Augustine, FL. May 15, 2011St. Augustine Lighthouse sits just beyond the ships in the harbor. May 15, 2011The moon rising at Anastasia State Park Beach at Duck. May 15, 2011Sunset at Anastasia State Park May 15, 2011My little camping buddy at Anastasia State Park, May 15 2011
Although I tried to schedule most of my trip not have a full day’s worth of driving, there are a few parts where I couldn’t avoid this. Today is one of those days, as I had a 9 hour drive from Gulf State Park to a family friend’s house just North of Tampa. Although the drive was long, it is important to remember that it is less about the destination and more about the journey. This trip, all 14,000 miles of has no singular destination. It is a journey. An adventure that doesn’t end when I arrive at a place I call home. It will enlighten, educate, culture and inspire me for the rest of my life.
May 14, 2011 at Gulf State Park Campgrounds, AL- The dock at the lake
I took one last look over the lake at the Gulf State Park campgrounds before I left for the day. I was soon to find out there is much more to Gulf State Park than what I saw at the campgrounds. Beaches line the highway as you start heading east towards Florida. They are your beautiful sand-dune trimmed beaches with white sand and wood picket and wire fences to keep troublesome tourists from trampling the dunes and the sea oats. It was beautifully sunny, so I had taken the top on my Jeep down again after faring the rains of Louisiana. I was certainly enjoying the sunny rays of the sunshine state when I crossed state lines.
One of the several Gulf State Park beachers. May 14, 2011There's something beautiful about the weather-worn sea fences.... Gulf State Park Beach May 14, 2011
Driving along I-10 there were several rainstorms I passes through, including one thunderstorm. Something amazing takes place when you are driving on the interstate going 70 mph: Most of the rain just sweeps right over you. I had to use a towel to wipe off the inside of the windshield a few times, but I was having the time of my life- both because of how refreshing it felt to smell the rain and experience the storm without getting soaked, and observing all the strange looks I got from other drivers along I-10.
The abundant spanish moss that covers trees in the South. (In this case, Florida near Tampa)Orange trees in Florida, near Tampa
As I headed south along I-75, and then along a county road, I started seeing more of the stereotypical Florida: Large trees draped with Spanish moss and orange trees both in groves and randomly dotting the side of the highway. I met up with family friends, who treated me to a dinner at Ruby Tuesday, and then we chatted around the TV about all sorts of things. It turns out one of them makes some spectacular soap, homemade of goats milk. If you are looking for some great organic soaps, visit www.simplycaprine.com. They also make quite a few other products, all organic and made by hand.
One of the many organic products offered by simplycaprine, out of Florida
Florida is a very large state, with a transition that you can experience if driving from the northern part to the southern tip. It starts as a stereotypical “deep south” climate, as I just described, to a palm-tree covered tropical environment surrounded by the bright blue Caribbean. I may have only been able to experience the driving of Florida today (and the hospitality of local friends) but tomorrow I get to drive across the state to its eastern coast, to stay in a place I absolutely adore: St. Augustine.
Me, at the dock at the lake of Gulf State Park Campgrounds, AL. May 14, 2011
The view of the beach dunes on the drive from Gulf State Park to Florida. May 14, 2011
The boardwalk to one of the several Gulf State Park beaches.Watching the waves crash is so soothing. A Gulf State Park Beach (Alabama), May 14, 2011My Jeep, "29", enjoying the drive through Florida.
Weathering the storm. It’s a difficult decision to make in life, whether to wait something out or to leave and start all over. You have to make a decision based on the unknowns. It may be the most taxing approach: To form a new ball of clay is certainly easier than molding one that has already been. It has been proven to me time and again that although this is the most difficult path it is the most rewarding. It shows your loyalty and your honest trust that everything will work out. Weathering the storm doens’t just give you a sunny day- it gives you rainbows.
New Orleans is a city that knows well what weathering the storm can offer. The city is looking much better than it did when I came to visit in January of 2007. The city is thriving, and it was thanks to a good amount of work and dedication of the people who call NOLA their home. My grandfather was originally from New Orleans area, and he went to visit quite often. One of the treats my family enjoys are beignets served at the Cafe du Monde. I can’t go to NOLA without stopping by the cafe and enjoying an order (or two, in the case of today).
Beignets at Cafe du Monde in the French Quarter. New Orleans, LA May 13, 2011
I’m not the only one to think so, either. Cafe du Monde never closes, and yet they are always jam packed full of patrons ready to devour the tasty morsels covered in powdered sugar. They are incredibly affordable, less than a dollar a beignet, coming in orders of 3. For the best effect you should enjoy a Cafe Au Lait with your beignets, a tradition stretching back to 1862. It is a staple of the French Quarter, and something that anyone visiting New Orleans must try. Cafe du Monde’s website: http://www.cafedumonde.com/history.html
Always a full house at Cafe du Monde. May 13, 2011
I wandered the streets of New Orleans for a couple hours, taking in the surrounding. You can’t walk too far without hearing a live jazz band playing somewhere or another. Oleander fills the flower beds, and other short semi-tropical trees shade the walkways. The French Market is full of vendors selling various drinks, foods, goods and produce. It’s well worth it just venturing around the French Quarter finding various shops, and people.
The walkway behind Cafe du Monde in the French Quarter. May 13, 2011One of the many distinctly New Orleans buildings in the French Quarter. May 13, 2011
My next stop was to be along the coast, down to Alabama’s gulf coast. I was going to camp very near the coast, at the Gulf State Park. It wasn’t too far a drive, and the drive is pretty nice. You get to drive underneath the water in a tunnel, and over a lot of waterways on bridges.
The park itself is very well cared for, and the price tag shows. It cost me a whole $36 to camp in a tent for one night. Granted it is a very well cared for park and it is along the coast, but it is twice the price that I have paid for at other campsites. I believe that the campsite is better geared towards RVs than towards camp tenting. If you have an RV this is an excellent place to stay. For a tent it may be a bit pricey.
I did get a nice spot, though. A short walk to the water of inner lake, that connects to the coast. A storm was rolling in when I pulled up to take pictures. I was able to watch as the sky turned dark, lightening filling the sky and thunder echoing across the coast. The water turned from calm to choppy, and dark. I had to take cover under a nearby shelter to keep from getting my camera wet and I considered making a run for my tent, but what followed shortly after was well worth the wait. A rainbow came out on the other side of the lake’s shore.
Gulf State Park, Alabama. The storm rolling in. Gulf State Park, Alabama. Taking cover from the storm. May 13, 2011The rainbow after the storm at Gulf State Park, Alabama. May 13, 2011
I was by myself, but I jumped up and exclaimed”Rainbow” out loud. Lightening was still filing the sky behind and to the sides of the rainbow, but the sight was absolutely beautiful and breathtaking. This is what I always wait for after the storm: the rainbow. A rainbow has always been a symbol of coming out of a difficult time even better than before. It’s why I weather the storm, so that I can see the beauty that is born out of it.
For every storm we have to decide whether we will seek sunnier skies, or wait for the rainbow to come out. For me, I will always weather the storm for what I believe in. You never know what miraculous wonder you will see with the next storm. So here’s to anticipating the storm- and loving every minute of it. Another adventure starts tomorrow….until then…
-Nicole
The distinct French Quarter street signs everyone knows and loves. May 13, 2011The French Market of NOLA. May 13, 2011The sign for the French Market Place. My own recipe: Cajun Hobo Dinner. This is how you make it when you aren't allowed to have ground fires. May 13, 2011 Gulf State Park AlabamaThis beer was created after the hurricanes swept through Louisiana, and it's proceeds helped rebuild NOLA.The view from my campsite. Dusk at Gulf State Park Alabama. May 13, 2011. I was playing with my manual settings on my camera and got this cook shot of the moon. Gulf State Park, Alabama. May 13, 2011
