There are many reasons I chose to camp instead of staying in a hotel on my travels. First and foremost, camping is FAR cheaper than any hotel room. Campsites may be a bargain way to travel, but they also offer much more in experiences than any hotel room could ever offer. Not only is each campsite unique, but every night at a campsite is unique since everything revolves around nature. One night you may see all of the stars and a bright moon, and the net night may be cloudy but you were able to take a long leisurely walk on a boardwalk through the swamp, seeing little spotted rabbits, bright yellow birds, dueling lizards and more. Camping is more finding a place to sleep-it’s another facet to your journey. Some camps are better than others, just as some hotels are dirtier than others (but at least with camping you get to sleep in your own bag- you KNOW that’s sanitary). Tickfaw State Park turned out to be a hidden jewel in the camping world, and I am more than happy to share what I have found.
The Swamp along a trail at Tickfaw State Park
Tickfaw State Park lies on the northern end of Maurepaus lake in Louisianna, a 30 minute drive to the French Quarter if you are planning on visiting the area. They have cabins, group camping sites, RV sites and “unimproved” tent sites. I obviously chose the later and took the unimproved tent site, which charges $12/night plus a $6 processing fee. The camping sites are each nestled in a private alcoved of trees, at least giving you the illusion that you are camping alone.
The suspension bridge over the Tickfaw river on one of the many trails at Tickfaw S.P. May 12, 2011
This alone would have made me a “happy camper” ( Where DOES that phrase originate and why do we use it for everything?) but it turns out the camp has a lot more. It has miles of hiking trails, both along perfectly maintained boardwalks and (if you venture deeper) along wild trails through the wilderness. It has an informative nature center, a water park for the kids (or the kid inside you), a regular park, numerous picnick pavilions, a view of it’s namesake river, the Tickfaw river, from a walking suspension bridge, clean showers and bathrooms, and more!
Tickfaw State Park May 12, 2011. One of the trails.
I found many things that aren’t even listed on the park’s map, such as the “Mother tree” nestled only a few yards off the road alond a dirt path. I saw lots of wildlife like brightly colored birds, multiple types of rabbits, some type of lizards, colorful grasshoppers, lots of blue and green dragonflies, and more. I even caught these two reptiles doing….well…I’m not sure what they are doing, you look at the series and tell me!
Two reptiles at Tickfaw. I don't know the species and genus, if you do please comment and let me know! May 12, 2011One of them changed colors. Reptiles at Tickfaw S.P. May 12, 2011Close up of the two fighting. May 12, 2011
I felt like I was in my own personal haven for most of the night, not seeing many other campers at all. Perhaps the flood waters had scared them all away? Or maybe I really had found a wonderful oasis that is hidden from everyone. Either way, it was just the way I like camping to be. If you ever plan on visiting this area of Louisiana I recommend this place as your campsite of choice. You won’t regret it.
Tomorrow I will be heading further east, after enjoyig a beautiful morning in the French Quarter, and I will be staying at another campsite. Will the next one match up to Tickfaw State Park? Until then…
-Nicole
The trailhead of Hurricane Cut Thru at Tickfaw S.P. May 12, 2011The waterpark at Tickfaw S.P. May 12, 2011A closeup of the dumping buckets at the waterpark of Tickfaw S.P. May 12, 2011Apparently these guys are just all over Louisiana this time of year. Tickfaw State Park, May 12, 2011One of the many small gems you can find throughout Tickfaw state park, not even listed on the map. May 12, 2011The blackberries are already ripening down in Louisiana. May 12, 2011 Tickfaw State Park.
The wonders of the world are often those that awe us in time. Those magnificent wonders that have been standing more years any of us can quite comprehend. It isn’t unusual to find geologic wonders of the world. The mere idea that you can gaze upon something so spectacular that was created over a span of millions of years is both difficult to wrap the mind around, and overwhelmingly joyful.
Not suprisingly, it isn’t as often to find something created by man that can achieve the same effect. Those objects that man create usually defy nature so blatantly that their time on this land, without constant care for generations, is usually short. If we see things such as this today they have been “restored” back to their original shape. They take constant care and maintenance to enjoy such a man made splendor. It is because of this that very few creations that weren’t a product of natural processes remain in their original state. Today I journeyed from Starkville, MS to Vacherie, LA so that I could personally see such a man-made wonder: Oak Alley plantation.
Looking back at the house from the end of Oak Alley. May 12, 2011. Vacherie, LA
While I absolutely love antebellum architecture, I am actually speaking of the trees when I refer to something that has held the test of time without any remodeling. These grand oak trees were planted by an unknown person in the early 1700s, and they have stood the test of time and guided the very splendor of the plantation itself. It turns out there is a way for man’s creation to stand the test of time without having to undergo restorative efforts after periods of neglect: use nature as the building material, canvass and structure all in one. Add nothing unnatural, simply guide what happens naturally.
The drive to Oak Alley wasn’t too eventful. I had been worried that I may have to change my Louisiana plans due to the flood waters that seemed to be chasing me down from Missouri. (I saw them on Day 2 in Arkansas and Memphis, TN) Luckily, I once again have just squeaked by as they don’t plan to open the flood gates until I will be out of the area. I took note of the Mississippi river as I passed over the bridge and had to circle back to drive along the closest road to the river on the Southern side, a road that rests many feet below the current level of the river on the other side of the levy. I saw many people stopping to take pictures of the river as it was slugging it’s way to the coast. Oak Alley faces the river, only a couple thousand feet from the levy, a line of stately, 300 year old oak trees leading the way from water to home.
The Mississippi at Oak Alley. See how close it is to the top of the levy? May 12, 2011
My visit to Oak Alley Plantation was lovely. I arrived in time for a late lunch, and went to the restaurant they keep on the property. I had the pleasure of enjoying a Mint Julep on the porch (to which I can now say I have done, and that I may not do again. I didn’t particularly care for the drink but it is something everyone should try once). For lunch I had a cajun seasoned crawfish on top of fried catfish, served with rice and corn. Everything had it’s own Louisiana spice to it, even the ranch dressing atop the small salad that was served before the meal had some cajun seasoning. The tables all had small flower vases with fresh roses in them, something I imagine they must refresh daily.
Mint Juleps at Oak Alley Plantation, May 12, 2011My meal at Oak Alley Plantation Restaurant: Crawfish atop Catfish with rice and corn
The grounds themselves are as gorgeous as the antebellum house that stands center-attention of the oak trees. Large kettles, once used to boil the sugar cane, are now used as planters where water lillies are in bloom. The giant oak trees are covered in Resurrection moss, giving them their distinctive southern charm. The branches sweep down to the ground, and the roots are massive, erupting from the earth that contains them. Everything about these threes is organic except for one thing: Their perfect alignment into an “alley way” for visitors to traverse across the grounds to the grand home.
The old sugar boiling pots, now used as planters. May 12, 2011. Oak Alley in Vacherie, LA
The tour of the house itself is given by a guide in period-appropriate attire. As is common with many older houses with antique portraits, furniture and draperies, no photography is allowed inside the home to protect them from camera flashes (and I imagine a right to the use of the photos. Although Oak Alley Plantation is now run by a non-profit group, it takes a lot of money to keep something like this up and running. Selling rights to photograph and use their property for events is one of the ways they can fund this enormous task).
The Oak Alley Plantation Home. May 12, 2011
There are numerous outbuildings to visit, such as the garage that houses two Ford Model-As, the cemetary, gardens, a civl war historian booth, and more. It woudln’t be difficult to spend an entire day there, though I would recommend a visit during April or early May. The south gets quite hot and humid during the summer and you won’t be able to enjoy the property to it’s full potential with so many activities being outdoors.
Two Model As at the Oak Alley Plantation Garage
I haven’t looked at how many pictures I took while there, but I know they are up in the triple digits. The place is lovely to visit. It costs $18 to enter, which includes full access to the grounds and a tour of the home itself. If you chose to spend the entire day there, meals are very affordable ranging from $8-$16 for a plate. Drinks are a little more pricey (My Mint Julep, which is 3 parts bourbon and 1 part mint syrup, in a glass of crushed ice with a fresh mint sprig ran $6) but are still well under prices you would expect at any city bar. It’s a great place for good adult fun, I’d probably suggest not bringing your kids until they are old enough to enjoy history..quietly.
If you don’t mind a 45 minute drive, there is a fabulous state park that I decided to stay at following my visit to Oak Alley….In fact, it is so fabulous it is deserving of it’s own entry. Read “Day 4, Part II: Tickfaw State Park” to learn about this gem in the swamplands of Louisiana.
-Nicole
These dragonflies were all over the Oak Alley Plantation. May 12, 2011Although you can't take pictures within the house, you are encouraged to take pictures from the balcony of the 2nd floor. May 12, 2011
Today I was able to visit the campus of one of my choices of application for graduate school: Mississippi State. I am already pretty specific in what I want to do for my graduate research, and that is to conduct research on speleothem development. If you didn’t know already by reading my previous entries, I love to spend time in caves and my particular interest is finding interesting speleothems such as helectites, soda straws, cave pearls, stalactities, stalagmites and more. The intricate process of the dissolution of limestone and deposition of these minerals into an entirely new product has fascinated me for years. I have sought out schools that have programs and research potential in karst so that I can find my niche in the world. I want to make tremendous contribution to the world of cave science, and to inspire future generations to continue the work for many years to come.
Mississippi State Davis Wade Stadium May 11, 2011The Entrance to Miss State campus. Starkville, MS May 11, 2011
The culture of Mississippi State is very welcoming. Everyone I met was very friendly, and the campus is wide open with plenty of space between the buildings. I was able to tour the facilities with Dr. Mylroie, and meet many of the professors and doctoral researchers that are contributing to geological sciences today. We had a tasty lunch at City Bagels, and if you are ever in Starkville, MS I recommend you to eat there as well. The food was good and the menu was pretty large and varied.
Miss State's Hilbun hall: Home of Geosciences. May 11, 2011City Bagel Cafe, Starkville, MS May 11, 2011. Very good food! 🙂
After my visit with Mississippi State I returned to camp to lounge a bit before it was time to cook dinner. The trees were filled with cicadas, their shells litering the stumps and tree trunks. Most find the noice annoying, but for my short stay here I find it somewhat relaxing. Sometimes the best parts of a trip are the downtimes, which is why I try to plan some of it between my busy days as much as possible. It’s the serenity and peace that keeps us all sane when the day closes.
Camp @ Indian Mound Campground, Mississippi May 11, 2011
Well, tomorrow I head off to Louisiana. Who knows what adventure this trek will bring me. I guess you’ll just have to come back later to find out. Until then…
-Nicole
The moon in the sky during the day, Camp in MS May 11, 2011Cicada Shell, Camp in MS, May 11, 2011A Cicada sitting in a nearby tree. Camp in MS. May 11, 2011
Day 2: Arkansas to Mississippi
Water is the most vital thing to life. Not only do we need it for our very survival, but we find it comforting. Millions of us flock to places of aqueous views, and whether we live there or not we all find it calming. The seas, lakes, rivers, waterfalls and springs dominate our culture. Most of our major cities are built near waterways. Water is the essence of our being.
Petit Jean State Park May 10, 2011
Today my friend took me to a place that exemplifies our fascination with water: Petit Jean State Park in central Arkansas. It is a beautiful place full of hiking trails and history, built by the Civilian Conseration Corps starting in 1933, during the Great Depression. Rich in history, and geology, it’s most stunning (and most visited) attraction is a 90′ waterfall that cascades into Cedar Creek Canyon.
Petit Jean State Park-Cedar Falls. The first view when walking up. May 10, 2011
The walk to Cedar Falls isn’t too long, only 2 miles from trailhead to the falls, but it is pretty vigourous. The first 1/2 mile that descends more than 200 feet, climbing down steps made from local rocks by the C.C.C., isn’t the hard part: It’s climbing back up later. I enjoyed it a lot, as sitting in a vehicle for long drives doesn’t offer a lot of exercise so I love to get what I can.
The geology of the area was unknown to me when I entered the park, but I started making some assumptions. My first clue were the trees, many of them obviously several hundred years old, that had grown on top of the rock rubble.
A tree growing on top of a fallen rock. Petit Jean State Park May 10, 2011
The area suggest to me a collapse of a large karst area several hundred thousand years ago. Now, everyone knows how I LOVE karst, so perhaps I try to see it in everything I visit. So, I decided to look it up when I got to camp where I would have wireless internet. Here is what I found:
It turns out that this area was not karst, but it did undergo a similar process as the sinkholes that take place in the carbonates of Missouri and Kentucky. What happened to these sandstone rocks is that the shale, softer and less resistant than the sandstone, was eroded by the water faster and left little support for the sandstone, causing the rocks to tumble. This area is in a big syncline called the Pontoon syncline. For more info on the geology of the area, go to http://www.geology.arkansas.gov/pdf/Geology%20of%20Petit%20Jean%20State%20Park.pdf
I really enjoyed the falls. There is something absolutely serene being in the presence of moving water. You can feel it in the air, and everything seems right with the world. I owe a huge thanks to my friend who took pictures of me, and taught me how to use a lot of the functions on my camera. I am extremely lucky to have a friend who is also interested in photography and we had a great time taking pictures at the falls. She was a gracious host as well and I couldn’t have chosen a better place to start my grand journey! We will have to go camping again soon.
In the afternoon it was time to leave Arkansas and head towards Mississippi. Upon driving EB along I-40 I saw exactly how you can have too much of a good thing. White, Cache, L’Anguille, St. Francis, and Mississippi are all names of rivers, but today they were lakes. At one point the water was so high it was approaching the roadway, and had already risen over the roadway on the WB side. I was lucky enough to squeak by on the EB lanes. They hadn’t closed them, but I imagine if the water isn’t yet receeding they would have had to do so.
Flooding in AR along I-40 5/10/11The water breached the WB lanes of I-40. 5/10/11The water, almost level with the roadway, along the EB lanes of I40 in AR. 5/10/11
The Mississippi river took over a large portion of Memphis, reclaiming property that once belonged to the flood plain. Locals had taken over exit ramps as boating ramps, and they lined the new coastline with fishing poles. A few roofs poked out through the water in places.
It is important to remember that many things are vital to our lives, in so many ways, yet there still needs to be moderation. There is a such thing as too much, even of a thing so essential as water. Sometimes we don’t have control over what amount of a good thing we are dealt, but we can decide to use it wisely, and learn from every moment we get.
The drive through Mississippi was wonderful. I was racing the sun to get to my campsite, the top down on the Jeep, the aromas of pine and honeysuckle breezing through my nose. Mississippi, so far, is a pretty nice looking state. I’ll let you know more about it after I do some more exploring of The Magnolia State tomorrow. Until then-
-Nicole
These flowers were all over Petit Jean State Park when I was there 5/10/11The stone steps, carved by the CCC, at Petit Jean S.P. 5/10/11This is me, taking pictures at Petit Jean S.P. in Arkansas (photo courtesy of my friend, Jennifer)
Me, taking a pictureof Cedar Falls at Petit Jean S.P. 5/10/11 (Photo courtesy of my friend, Jennifer)
Most of the time when our alarm clock goes off we hit the snooze. It goes off the second time and we either begrudgingly get out of bed, or we hit the snooze again. If you are like me you have to set your alarm clock at least a half hour earlier than you intend to wake up because this process repeats until you can’t fall back asleep without dreaming about your alarm’s incessant call.
The night of a trip is nothing like this. You wake up before your alarm goes off. Only 2 hours until you have to get up. Fall back asleep. The next time your eyes are open, it’s only 1 hour and 45 minutes until your alarm calls. It is one of those rare moments where you anticipate your alarm rather than dread it.
This morning was one of those days.
It was the start of my Grand Adventure tour, to which I call Caves, Waves & Future Paves. Aptly named, as the goals of this 77 day tour is to a) visit potential grad schools b)collect data, photos and other information from a broad spectrum of caves throughout the U.S. for my own research and c) to relax among the worlds wonders (including friends, family, mountains, canyons, geologic marvels and one of my personal favorite: coastlines).
Starting out in Missouri I will be doing two loops: My Eastern loop, which I started today, a short 3 day stop at home, and then my Western loop.(See the map below)
My first stop was just South of the Missouri border in Arkansas: Cosmic Caverns. Along the way I also had a plan of selling some of my stone creations, so I have produced a dozen “cave candle holders” and have them with me. (go to www.geojeep.com/stone-creations to see a picture of it) The Cosmic Caverns gift shop purchased two of them, and seemed likely to want to sell more. I couldn’t have been more thrilled.
Cosmic Caverns Berryville, AR May 9, 2011
The tour of Cosmic Caverns was fantastic. Taking tours on Mondays seems to be beneficial. I was on tour with one couple and the tour guide. The tour guide was very informative and knew a lot about the geology, mineralogy and history of the cave. I was very impressed since I often run into cave tours that know very little about the cave geology. I scribbled an entire page worth of notes in my field book, and noted the size of different items I used as scale so I could reference them later. The tour only costs $14 for general admission, so if any of you are near the area I highly recommend it. There are lots of beautiful formations to take pictures of and the group that works there is very friendly and knowledgeable. If they don’t know the answer they will try to find it for you.
Cosmic Caverns Berryville, AR May 9, 2011
My next stop was at another cave that was only a 30-40 minute drive from Cosmic: Mystic Caverns. Here I was going to actually tour two caves owned on the property: Mystic Caverns and Crystal Dome.
I was the only one who arrived for the next tour, and while they don’t normally allow a tour to go with just one person for safety reasons, the lady allowed me to go because she knew I was doing some research and data collection. Going on tours alone goes nice and fast, and especially if you are someone like myself who has been in enough caves that they don’t have to repeat the same script they have rehearsed uncountable times. I was able to get photographs of almost everything I wanted, with different items of scale.
Mystic Caverns, me in front of a large bell, May 9, 2011
Mystic Caverns is not a very big cave, but it is pretty well decorated- speleothems are in great numbers as compared to the size of the cave itself, although many of them are no longer depositing.
Crystal Dome. May 9, 2011.
Crystal dome is right next to Mystic, and run by the same private owner, but is not known to connect. While the tour route is pretty short the cave itself is much larger. It has a beautiful dome that is covered in draperies, and one of the biggest pieces of cave bacon I have ever seen. (Although the speleothem density is much more sparse than it’s neighbor, Mystic).
Crystal Dome. A large piece of cave "bacon". May 9, 2011
The drive from Mystic Caverns, which is located near Harrison, AR, to Russellville, AR where I was to meet my friend from high school was a beautiful drive. The weather was sunny and warm, so I was able to take the Jeep’s top down and enjoy the air. The view from the top of the mountains was breath taking.
As with any of my trips, I did have an almost crippling mishap. I had put my Jeep top down after touring Mystic Caverns and Crystal Dome and slid my side windows to my soft top under the back of my top, folded down. I was driving south on the curvy, steeply-graded, 7 highway that runs from Jasper, AR to Russellville, AR and I noticed a flash of black in my rear view mirror. One of my side windows had flown out onto the highway into the northbound lane. I pulled over into the nearest driveway, made a u turn and had to stop, mid highway with flashers on, to reclaim my lost window. Without that window, rain would not be a fun weather event. Luckily the time of day I was traveling afforded very little traffic to fight. Close call!
I am now in Russellville at a good friend of mine’s home, enjoying grilled chicken and other good food with her husband and her neighbors. The night is beautiful, and they live right next to a bayou. Tomorrow morning she is going to take me to Petit Jean National Park to see a 90′ tall waterfall, and then I will be treking my way in my Jeep with the top down to Mississippi so I can camp for the night.
It’s funny how we spend life dreading some alarm clocks and anticipating others. This Summer will be a part of my life where every alarm clock will be something I look forward to. I think it will prove to be a great lesson in life. Every day we wake, whether it be to the sun rising and the birds chirping or that incessant buzzing of an alarm, should be cherished. Each alarm allows you to start the journey of a new day.
Until my next alarm clock, here’s a couple more pictures of my journey!
-Nicole
Me, near the Buffalo RiverThe Buffalo National Scenic Riverway Campground, access to the river next to beautiful bluffs. May 9, 2011. Looking back at my Jeep standing on the beach of the Buffalo River 5/9/11I pulled over to look at the Boston Mountains along 7 highway fairly often. 5/9/11Looking back at the Mountains at a lookout, South of Jasper, AR. 5/9/11
States (and Provinces) Covered: 39 states 1 province (MO,AR,TN,MS, LA, AL, FL, GA, SC, NC, VA, MD, PA, NY, MA, NH, ME, VT, ON, WV, OH, IN, KY, IL, IA, WI, MN, SD, WY, MT, ID, WA, OR, CA, NV, AZ, TX, NM, CO, KS )
Why & Where Did I Go On This Trip?
This is the Grand Adventure tour, of which I call “Caves, Waves & Future Paves”. Aptly named, as the goals of this 75 day tour were to: a) visit potential grad schools b)collect data, photos and other information from a broad spectrum of caves throughout the U.S. for my own research and c) to relax among the worlds wonders (including friends, family, mountains, canyons, geologic marvels, coastlines and, of course, caves). It was a life changing and inspiring journey that I want to share with everyone so that you also feel empowered to travel. I have long believed that the most successful education involves hands-on, in-person experiences, and this is it! Starting out in Missouri I did two loops: My Eastern loop, a short 3 day stop at home, and then my Western loop. (See Map Below)
Vacation is a time to get away from your normal daily routine. The time off, away from everyday stresses, is suppose to help you relax so you can come back refreshed and recharged. Is this really going to happen if you just spent all of your savings on vacation? No! Does this mean you can’t go on vacation? Certainly not!
Some of the best get aways are exactly that: getting AWAY from the normal, and even away from the costly swipes of your credit or debit card. On the average day an American consumer spends between $30 and $60 on food and drink, alone. (Don’t believe me? Start adding up that $4 coffee, that $8 “value” meal, that $7 alcholic beverage…)Imagine what your daily expenditures are in total. What if I told you that you could spend LESS than that while on vacation? Not only that, but you will be able to see some amazing natural wonders of the world, learn about geology, ecosystems, desert life and more, and camp under a star-filled sky that is unhindered by excessive city lights?
It’s not a story, it’s a fact.
Time to add another facet to your life. Let’s go visit Carlsbad Caverns in New Mexico.
Carlsbad Caverns
There was a time, not long ago (in the first half of the twentieth century) that caves were the thing to go visit. Landowners scoured their property for entrances to these money-making caverns, in hopes of offering tours to the public. Route 66 even boasted Mammoth Caverns in Southern Missouri as one of it’s main tourist attractions. It was in a time when the sciences were just beginning to understand the greater significance of karst topography, and a cave’s delicate geology and ecology. When the emerging science began to show just how delicate these places are, and that it took thousands of years another phenomenon took place that gave these geologists a deep breath of relief. The public started moving away from recreation into a busier, more technologically advanced world. Along with the fall of the mineral springs resorts and other places of natural importance, so too did the business of show caves. It seems America got too busy to go on vacation, or to even find times to relax. Instead we found time for therapists, psychiatrists and more doctor visits. I’m pretty sure these things cost more than a vacation, and are much less enjoyable.
Today, we know a LOT more about caves, and what they have to offer. We know that a single stalactite could take thousands of years to be deposited, and the cavern itself took thousands of years before that to form so that the stalactite even had room to “grow”. Responsible show caves take care to preserve the cave for all of it’s beauty. You won’t find soda straws and stalagmites for sale in cases at the entrance anymore, and the tour guides certainly won’t ask you to take home your favorite cave pearl. Today show caves do everything they can to protect the environment. They add in humidity controlling door locks (double, or more, sets of doors designed to minimize the loss of humidity in a cave), they carefully design pathways as to avoid disturbing any more of the cave than necessary, and they educate the public about the marvels of these underground sanctuaries.
If you go to Carlsbad Caverns you can visit a place just like this, and for next to nothing. This national park charges a mere $6 for entry through the natural entrance to the cave, a tour that can last hours if properly appreciated. Not only do they offer this, but also tours for the more adventurous spirit that go off-the-trail (they book in advance, so plan accordingly). The park itself is full of hiking trails with informative signs. The camping is on the cheap, the food is inexpensive (especially if you decide to grill, like any respectable camper should) and the views are fantastic whether it is day or night. The park is even pet friendly! While they don’t allow animals in the caverns, they do have a pet sitter at the visitor’s center where your furry friend can hang out in the AC with fresh water and food while you explore- for a $5 daily fee. The hiking trails are all free to roam and have fantastic views of canyons and mountains.
If you aren’t the “camping type” then just drive up to the cave’s namesake city, Carlsbad New Mexico, and get a hotel. I stayed at a fair hotel for only $35 a night, that included a free hot breakfast.
To read the first chapter in this series,Facet One,: Click Here
Carlsbad Caverns May 2010
Cave Pearls in Carlsbad Cavern's Rookery (on the Wild Cave Tour of Lower Cave)
The view from up top Carlsbad Caverns National Park
Carlsbad Caverns Dec 2009
The view of a canyon in Carlsbad Caverns National Park
There is a misunderstanding in the general public that to go on vacation you have to spend a whole lot of money. What many don’t realize is that some of the best places in the country to visit are absolutely free of admittance fees. On top of this, there are plenty of places that charge less than the price of a McDonald’s value meal for a whole day’s worth of fun. Lodging can be pretty inexpensive if you know what you are doing. The following are a few fantastic places to visit on the cheap, and a few tips on getting the full experience when your pocketbook is nearing empty.
Let’s be honest with ourselves: When stressed out, we tend to waste money on junk food, alcohol, unnecessary clothing and other empty fillers to make us feel better. These options only settle the nerves for a short period of time. Travel can be done on the cheap, and the benefits are far reaching.
-Allows you to “get away” from your daily stresses.
-Reconnect with nature or society
-Broaden your horizons to make yourself a well-rounded, educated individual
I don’t think I could ever finish that list, but enough of the work stuff. Time for pictures of beautiful places to go while spending very little.
This is the beginning in a series I will be publishing about getting away on a budget. Many of the most amazing places you can go to are free, or next-to-free. I will also offer tips on lodging on a budget, the best times of the year to see these places, and more.
Crystals and gems, the part of geology everyone can appreciate, have many facets to enhance their beauty and attract those who will cherish them for a lifetime. Life itself is a crystal, constantly growing with more sparkling facets everyday. Travel is an easy way to add facets to your own life, enhancing it with culture, knowledge, and an involvement in the greater place that is the universe. We all play our part, and each facet we add makes the world a brighter place.
The Smithsonian Institution
If you live in the Washington D.C. area you probably already know this, but for those of you that don’t: These museums are FREE to the public. A network of 19 (yes, count them, 19!) museums and the National Zoo, it would take weeks to go through every one of them and experience everything they have to offer. There is a museum for everyone. I am partial to the Smithsonian Museum of Natural History (as any geologist would) but I am also a huge fan of the National Zoo, where they care for a breeding population of Giant Pandas, Lions, and just about every zoo animal you can think of. I just visited the National Zoo a couple weeks ago, and was able to see the pandas, an entire gorilla family (baby included), a lion pride with cubs chasing their father around the enclosure, and many more. I learned a lot about animals, even saw some I never knew existed. The Natural History Museum is full of amazing exhibits and friendly staff. What else does the Smithsonian offer? Visit the Smithsonian Institution’s website by clicking HERE. You can find a museum or two or twelve to visit and be happy to know the admission cost: $0!
The entrance to the Smithsonian Museum of Natural History.
The architecture of the Smithsonian Institution’s buildings, alone, is worth the trip.
A Gypsum Flower in the Geology wing of the Smithsonian Natural History Museum, Washington D.C.
Gypsum flowers are very delicate, and this one was particularly beautiful. They grow naturally in many caves around the world. I have been in many caves, but I have not yet seen one in a cave yet. I hope to sometime in the future.
Dioptase. A beautiful blue mineral at the Smithsonian Museum of Natural History
This was a mineral I had never seen before. I have started a blue mineral collection, and someday I hope to acquire one of these. This specimen was particularly beautiful.
The guard in the Hope Diamond exhibit.
The guards here are all smiles. They are very pleasant to be around, and seem to truly enjoy their job. This guard asked if I was going to take his picture and smiled for me. Every one of the guards at the Smithsonian seems to be in high spirits. Usually you have to pay a lot of money to go to a museum or any other attraction where you get such wonderful service. Not here: It’s FREE!
The Hope Diamond, in a temporary setting for Nov 2010-Nov 2011
The Hope Diamond is world famous, and to get a look at the gem you often have to wait your turn in line. Currently it is in a temporary setting to commemorate the 50th anniversary of this historic donation. For more information, click HERE.
The Orchid Exhibit for Spring 2011 at the Smithsonian Museum of Natural History Washington D.C.
Along with the permanent collections, there are many seasonal exhibits that are offered every few years, or even decades. If you have visited the museum before, you can see new exhibits every month or so. It was honestly some miraculous coincidence that the orchid exhibit was going on when I visited this year for Spring break. I have 5 Phalenopsis orchids, and have had many more that I care for. This was a real treat to see.
Human Bones from the Written in Bone Forensic Exhibit March 2011
Another seasonal exhibit, these are ACTUAL human bones. I was able to pick them up with my own hands, and with information that I learned at the Smithsonian, identify the sex of the human these bones belonged to by the sciatic notch. Pretty cool, right? Just call me Temperence Brennan.
One of the Giant Pandas at the Smithsonian National Zoo. March 2011
I love these fluffy black and white bears.
Pandas like to sleep, so he hides his eyes from the sun. The Smithsonian National Zoo, March 2011.Part of the Lion pride at the Smithsonian National Zoo in Washington D.C. March 2011
Look at all those cubs!!! And the Dad was roaming around too, the cubs periodically enticing him to play with them.
A Poison Dart Frog, Blue, in the Amazon exhibit at the Smithsonain National Zoo in Washington D.C. March 2011
It is easy to overlook the big picture when wrapped up in the day to day of our lives. We get lost in life’s mishaps and feel like we are trapped in quicksand. None of our lives are ideal, and the daily grind can be exhausting.
I can honestly say my daily grind is full of adventure. It doesn’t seem to matter what the agenda is for the day, something always happens to keep my life interesting.I love my life not because everything goes right, but because everything goes entirely wrong.It’s a comical life, the type you see on those sitcoms where big mishaps take place but everything always ends up alright in the end. This sort of thing isn’t limited to Hollywood: I live it.
Today is a perfect example of my disastrous, wonderfully compelling thing called life.
I slept in a little bit and took my time getting ready, enjoying the free breakfast the hotel offered. I have to admit I’m a sucker for those Belgian waffles that hotels offer. In fact, when I reserve a hotel I check the description to see if the hotel offers the Belgian waffles before I decide if I am going to book that hotel or not. Ridiculous? Maybe for anyone else, but not for me.
I started my drive to Capulin Volcano National park, which was only a short 30 minute drive, and a tiny 1 mile detour from the path home. I took the turn towards the volcano and drive over a cattle grid, past a yellow caution sign that neither warns of deer, or that cartoon Elk I had observed all over Arizona two days ago. It warns me of free range cattle.
Sure enough as I travel down the highway, covered lightly in snow from the night before, there is a small herd of cattle standing in the middle of the road. Behind them stands a second cattle grid that would signify my freedom of the very cattle that stood in my way. I was traveling very slow because of the snow and ice, so I crept up on the herd of cattle expecting them to move as they saw me approaching them. Most animals get scared when a large, red object that rivals the size of an elephant approaches them. Not these guys.
As I get close they continue to stand there, staring at me. I slowed down even more, inching forward now, and they still don’t move. I was now only feet away so I touched the brakes to stop. The snow, however, had something else in mind. Despite the ceased rotation of my tires my car continued forward, sliding straight into 2-3 of the cattle that stood there looking at me in stupor.
CLUNK
CLUNK
CLUNK.
I bump into them, the cattle stumble and bounce away as they realize my car wasn’t friendly.
I sat in my car for a little bit, stunned. Had I really just hit some cows? Really?
I look over and see that a farm truck was sitting in the field to my right. I get out and check my car- all is ok, just some hair from the cows was plastered to the bumper with the moisture from melted snow. I look around for the cattle to make sure I didn’t hurt them and they all seem ok as they stare at me in disbelief of my violent greeting from a safe distance.
The farmer, who had been parked in his truck in the field, gets out and his two cattle dogs come with him as he asks if I’m ok. I reply that everything seems to be ok and I ask if he thinks the cows are ok. After both of us concluding I wasn’t going fast enough to hurt anything, and him explaining the cattle have the right of way and I need to be careful, we have small chat about the weather and the volcano. He tells me that the view from atop Capulin is definitely worth the drive. After petting his dogs and apologizing for running into his cows I get back in my car, parked in the middle of the road, and drive towards the volcano.
Upon reentering my vehicle and putting it back in drive I immediately begin laughing. Hysterically.
Only I could have this many mishaps on a 10 day vacation.
I get to the visitor center and pay the $5 entrance fee. Why is it that some of the most exciting places to visit charge so little, such as the beaches and Carlsbad, yet the Grand Canyon and Meteorite Crater are so ridiculously overpriced?
After watching the short informative video on Capulin, which informs me that all of the mountains in northeastern New Mexico were originally volcanoes, I go to pickup my postcards to send back home as I had at most of my major stops. I’m the only one in the visitor center and I’m looking at some books. I pick up one on geology and it somehow flips out of my hand and through the air and I catch it before it has the chance to get back to the ground. I laugh, the lady behind the counter laughs, and I put it back on the shelf.
“Yeah, that’s how my day started”. I laugh as I once again run the fresh image of the cattle bouncing away from my car after being hit.
We have a good conversation about volcanoes. I tell her about the jar of ashes I have from the 1980 eruption of Mt. St. Helens and she mentions that she has a Christmas ornament that is made from the same ashes. We talk about different things, including the volcano that erupted at the beginning of my journey, a world away. It’s nice talking to a guide that is educated in geology, it isn’t something you find everywhere. I leave the visitor’s center to drive up the swirling road to the top of Capulin Volcano.
Capulin Volcano is a cinder cone that erupted only about 60,000 years ago, which is relatively young in geological terms. It rises over 8,000 feet above sea level, and the crater is 400 feet deep. The road that spirals up to the rim of the volcano is 2 miles long, swirling up thousands of feet often without a guardrail. A little scary considering the road is still covered in light snow on the shaded side of the volcano where the sun has yet to melt it away. I drive carefully, the incident of the cattle massacre fresh in my mind.
I reached the top to find I wasn’t the only crazy tourist willing to risk their life to see a monument to geological history. There were two other cars up top, and the view from there was spectacular. You could see for miles and miles. The vegetation that covers the cinder cone (which is unusual for a volcano of it’s age, many don’t get so densely populated so quickly) is all covered in delicate frost crystals that move in the breeze like small feathers. Looking down into the crater you can see lots of volcanic rock that has accumulated there from it’s previous explosion.
I slowly descend the 400’ along the paved path, covered in snow and ice, to reach the bottom of the crater. I get there and look up, the view is pretty cool having the walls of the crater all around you. A couple is down in the crater as well taking some pictures. I take my picture by using a sign post as a camera stand. The couple offers to take my picture for me, but after reviewing the picture I had taken right before and seeing that it was alright I thank them for the offer, but decline.
I leave Capulin, paying special attention to the road for cattle. Along the side of the road on the way out is an old abandoned house sitting on top of cinderblocks as if someone had moved it there planning on building it a foundation but never got around to it. I wouldn’t mind living there, I think to myself.
The drive back home wasn’t planned to be all too eventful. I crossed the border into Texas, a short drive through the panhandle part of the state. The sky was really pretty here, as the sun decided to come out and fluffy, white clouds dotted the sky. Then I crossed the state line into Oklahoma. I was driving along the highway when suddenly I see the all-too familiar flashing blue and red lights in my rearview mirror. Great.
I pull over on the side of the road and the Sheriff’s SUV patrol car pulls in behind me. He walks up to my passenger side window which is smart for two reasons: One, he isn’t standing in traffic. Two, my driver’s side window doesn’t roll down. He explains to me that I had just passed through a lower speed limit and that I was going 60 in a 45. He tells me that since I’m not from the area he will just give me a warning, but asks if I can go sit in his car while he runs my plates and license to get the all clear. I oblige and his partner gets into the backseat to allow me to sit up front.
While sitting in the patrol car waiting for them to run the plates back at the station he starts up small chat, asking where I was heading and about my trip. After a few minutes I hear a rustling in the back and turn to see a cage that I assumed to contain a drug dog since I couldn’t see behind the back seats. He says that she was a pretty good dog, very quite, which brings up conversation about the puppy I had transported to California. I tell him about the drug dog at border patrol that got excited about the smell of the puppy.
Don’t ever mention that you had to go through border patrol to an officer with a drug dog.
Never.
My plates and license, by a small miracle, come back all clear. He give me back my papers and tells me I’m good to go except for one thing. He says that the fact I had to go through border patrol perked his interest, and with his job and having a drug dog he had to ask a few questions.
“Do you have any illegal narcotics in your vehicle?”
I reply no.
“Do you have an methamphetamines, cocaine, marijuana or any drug paraphernalia in the vehicle?”
I again reply no, and tell him I don’t even have any alcohol in the vehicle.
“Will you consent to a search around your vehicle with my drug dog?”
I, of course, say yes and he asks me to remain in the car while he gets out his dog and lets her run around my car. He takes her out on a leash and walks around the drivers side, around the front, and when he reaches the passenger side his dog sticks her head in my car through the open window. She takes one sniff of the puppy carrier that is sitting in my backseat and jumps right into my car.
…I turn to his partner, who is still sitting in the SUV behind me, and explain that I forgot to mention my passenger car door doesn’t open from the outside.
I watch the officer struggle with the car door, trying to get his drug dog back out of my car. He eventually figures out he needs to open it from the inside and reaches inside to pull the handle. He pulls his dog out of the car and puts her back in her kennel in the back of his patrol unit.
“Sorry about my dog jumping in…she saw that puppy carrier. Have a safe trip home”
Today is just full of laughter.
I continue my drive north towards Kansas, fresh muddy paw prints covering my laptop case and door sill. On the way out to California I had decided to take Oklahoma thinking that a toll road would be better taken care of than the interstates through southern Kansas. Since that theory turned out to be wrong, and had resulted in my disdain for Oklahoman roads, I decided to return via Kansas.
The sun setting in Kansas
Kansas is the spitting image of our preconceived notionst: A lot of flat farmland with just a few trees here and there. A funny scene was playing out in Kansas as I made my drive northeast through the state. The trees that sporadically stuck out in the terrain were all covered in a thick snow, but the ground was completely clear. I don’t know what causes this phenomenon, but it was rather interesting to see.
When I finally reached Emporia, KS I decided I was in the mood for another of the spicy chicken sandwiches. Since there are no Carl’s Jrs in this part of the country I decided to stop at it’s sister restaurant, Hardee’s, to get my spicy chicken sandwich. I even drove an extra hour and a half to stop specifically at a Hardee’s in hope to get jalapenos, knowing that Wendy’s do not carry them. When I get there they don’t have jalapenos, and they even give me the wrong chicken sandwich altogether.
Not spicy, but a grilled chicken sandwich. I was too hungry to care.
I stopped to get gas and fuel up with one last sugar free Redbull for the last stretch of my trip before I got back on the highway. The cashier gave me a discount on the Red Bull (Apparently it was on sale?) and I returned to my car to calculate my gas mileage as I did every fuel stop and zero my trip odometer. When I go to zero my trip odometer the numbers stick. GREAT. I just broke my odometer.
Like I really needed anything else to go wrong with my car.
On a brighter note, the flat plains of Kansas allowed me to get a full 26 mpg.
The drive home was like the blink of an eye after leaving Emporia. When you have driven over 4000 miles the last couple hundred seem like nothing. I reached home right around 1am, brought in my bags all in one trip and passed out.
As much as I love my journeys, it was good to be home.
The quality road trips possess, and air travel lacks. Traveling alone is doubly spontaneous. One can literally stop anywhere they want, when they want. There is no complaining about schedules when I stop to see something interesting, no stopping because someone needs to eat or use the bathroom when I am content, and no feeling guilty about needing to stop to use the facilities when the other passengers do not. When traveling on the road by myself, I’m on my time.
Today’s drive was planned no further than arriving at Raton, NM by nightfall where I would stay in a nice Quality Inn (I get reward points when I stay at this particular chain) and get to swim a little bit before bed in their heated indoor pool. There were a lot of interesting stops that lie along the path through northeastern Arizona that I had not even thought about, so while the drive was longer than planned I was able to stop at many points of interest.
I drove through the snowy alpine, mountainous wilderness that was what I knew of Scottsdale, AZ thus far, and turned East on the interstate. Along the highway I see a big billboard inviting me to see Meteor Crater. Things of space have always interested me, I have even taken astronomy classes in college as a few of my electives. The necklace I wear everyday is a small piece of the Campo de Cielo meteorites that fell in South America. Campo de Cielo quite literally translates into “Field of the Sky”, an area in Argentina where 26 craters were formed over 4000 years ago. The necklace I wear is one of my treasures I am never without.
Me, wearing my Campo de Cielo meteor necklace in front of a much larger iron meteorite @ Meteor Crater, AZ
Meteor Crater National Park is one of the best preserved meteor craters in the world. It is the site where an iron meteorite crashed into the earth, one much like my charm of Campo de Cielo. I would be lying if I labeled the site as anything less than a tourist trap, costing $15 to get into the small museum and view the crater itself. The crater is exactly that: A big crater in the Arizona desert.
Meteor Crater, AZ
While it’s no comparison in size to the Grand Canyon I had just seen before, the site is still inspiring. The viewing platform overhangs the crater itself, which is 570 feet deep and about 4100 feet across. Since it is the first part of January it was a little cold out there, but once again it was a view worth shivering for. After admiring the canyon for a while I returned to the visitor center and purchased a small meteor fragment and a lab-grown bizmuth.
When you purchase your tickets for the Meteor Crater’s museum you also get coupons to one of two restaurants: the Subway inside the visitor center, or “The Whole Enchilada”, a small burrito shack in the gas station at the highway exit. I decide to fuel up both my car and myself before I hit the road again. I order a burrito, and (of course) a churro. The man behind the counter asks for my drivers license when I present him my card to pay for the food and he asks where I’m from in Missouri. Apparently he once lived in Kansas City. He says he never did like Kansas City much at all. The burrito was pretty good.
I get back on the road and I don’t drive long before I decide I need to stop again. Winslow, Arizona. I don’t really know anything about the town other than the song, so for the song alone I stopped and took pictures of that fabled corner in Winslow, Arizona along historic route 66. Funny how we all remember things as historical markers yet the significance is long forgotten.
Winslow, AZ
Along the remaining drive through Arizona there is plenty to see. I drove past the Petrified Forest, which is a big field of what looks like trees that have been chopped down and into logs. All of them were once trees that have “turned to stone”. Of course what really has happened is a type of permineralization called silicification. Visit the National Park Service’s Webpage about the Petrified Forest’s Petrified Wood by clicking here. It’s funny how the timber segments into separate “logs” when it petrifies. I consider stopping to try and pull one out of the field, but think twice about it after a sign warns of the legality of such an action, and the scene I would make trying to move such a heavy object all by myself.
When I return to the Land of Enchantment I have a reminder of why the state of New Mexico is called that. The entire state is quite scenic, covered in beautiful, colorful plateaus and mountains. I stop at the “Welcome to New Mexico” rest stop and trudge through the snow to the visitor center for some free coffee. A couple fenced areas are set up to allow dogs a place to run and get some exercise and a Siberian husky runs around, looking as if it belonged there with all the snow. Yes, even New Mexico is covered in snow.
New Mexico
While I mill around the visitor center drinking my coffee one of the employees there strikes up a conversation. We talk about the differing state’s highway departments and how well New Mexico’s roads are taken care of. I see some brochures on Roswell and realize my current path won’t pass by the area. Oh well. I get a few brochures in hopes that I can visit someday and get back on the road.
The rest of the drive was as scenic as I had remembered New Mexico. On the way out I had driven through the southern part of the state, and now I drove through the northern part, and both were equally scenic. The sun had set right before I approached Albuquerque and I was able to enjoy the city lights as I dipped down into the city that sits in a valley between mountains. When I reached Santa Fe it was dinner time and I really wanted to eat at a Carl’s Jr. Turns out I should have stopped in Albuquerque because none of Santa Fe’s services are right along the highway. You have to drive a ways to get to restaurants and fuel once you exit the highway. When I reached Carl’s Jr I had the most wonderful spicy chicken sandwich ever for only $1.29, and they supply jalapenos for you to put on the sandwich. Mmm.
I was only about 30 miles away from my hotel when it began to snow. The flakes were big and forced me to slow down quite a bit to be able to drive safely. I start cursing the snow. It doesn’t matter how far away I was from home, the snow seemed determine to get in my way.
I arrived safely at my hotel and was able to swim in the pool for a while, and relax in the hot tub, in solitude. It was nice to be able to relax at a hotel for a change. The previous hotels I had stayed at in the journey had simply been a place to sleep before I headed out on a journey, this time I was able to relax. Tomorrow I would be able to relax more on my drive home, stopping at a volcano on the way.
Today I had planned simply to get from point A to point B, but ended up touring the famous Meteor Crater and spending some time on the corner of Winslow Arizona.
Today was a day of spontaneity, but tomorrow had a planned stop that I was very excited to see. I had never been on top of a volcano, but that was exactly what I was going to do. Capulin Volcano National Monument.
