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Luck: Day 8 Part I, St. Augustine, Florida

Luck. It’s one of those whimsical ideas that is often tied to symbolic findings like a four-leaf clover and a bird that drops a little present on your head in flight. Something many don’t truly believe in, yet so many people seem to have it. The Spanish appear to have had luck when they stumbled upon St. Augustine, the lighthouse of the same settlement seems to have had tremendous luck, and even I have had many good hands dealt my way. Luck- Could it be real?

I got up early this morning, a busy day of sightseeing on the books, and headed to the only WiFi access point in Anastasia State Park, located at the beach shop. I settled down in the rising sun with my laptop, uploading pictures of the previous day for all of you to enjoy, when I noticed a few people collecting at the beach. One man was sitting up at the beach overlook deck with a camera on a tripod, and a few people were trickling their ways onto the beach. They weren’t wearing beach attire, nor was it warm enough to swim if they had been. I dismissed it as a group family photo in the making and went about my business. Soon more people began to show up, all toting their DSLR cameras and chatting a little too lively for such an early hour on the east coast. Then someone approached me: “Are you going to watch the shuttle launch?”.

The launch of Shuttle Endeavour as viewed from Anastasia State Park Beach. May 16, 2011.

I almost leapt out of my seat- could it really be that today was the day that they launched the space shuttle Endeavour? It turns out it certainly was- and I was close enough to Cape Canaveral to see if from my vantage on the beach. I was totally unprepared to take such a photograph, so the few that I did get aren’t all that great- but I did get them, and I did get to see it launch. Many thought this was the last launch of the shuttle Endeavour, but according to news articles this was the next-to-last.

If you guys are really hard core about seeing the shuttle launch keep updated on the real “last launch”. Maybe you can find a way to venture out there? Even if you can’t get down to Cape Canaveral, you now know of a great place to camp out and view it from: Anastasia State Park. According to the volunteer who stands atop St. Augustine Lighthouse once a week, this launch view wasn’t as good as it usually is due to some haze. He has been living in St. Augustine since the 1980s, and hasn’t missed a launch since. He even got to work early so he could view the launch from atop the lighthouse. If you are lucky enough, perhaps you can watch the last ever launch of Endeavour from atop the lighthouse.

The St. Augustine Lighthouse. May 16, 2011. Every lighthouse has it's own distinct scheme so that ships can recognize where they are.
Climbing up isn't bad, it's climbing down that makes me nervous everytime. St. Augustine Lighthouse.

The St. Augustine Lighthouse was my first planned trip of the day. I had already visited the lighthouse once, but it is something worth seeing again. The current lighthouse stands 165’ high and has been standing there since 1874. It is built of brick and steel, both crafted here in the U.S., and is the oldest standing brick structure of St. Augustine. When you visit you have to climb 219 stairs to reach the top (sound exhausting, it is!).

A small sample of the stairs of St Augustine Lighthouse. May 16, 2011
The stairs are very pretty to look at. St. Augustine Lighthouse May 16, 2011

Many Florida lighthouses had a lot of trouble staying upright: the soft sands of the coast proved to be a less-than-stable base for the heavier lighthouses of the late 1800’s. St. Augustine has a sturdy layer of coquina for the lighthouse to sit atop, keeping it from the same fate of many other lighthouses in the state. The lighthouse has had several close calls, such as Hurricane Dora and a few other hurricanes, and a couple earthquakes. Fortunately (and perhaps luckily?) the St. Augustine lighthouse has stood tall. (Visit their website at www.staugustinelighthouse.com)

This funny mirror was on the ground. It made for a neat vantage point for a picture. St. Augustine Lighthouse May 16, 2011
The view of Castillo de Sand Marcos as you drive past. May 16, 2011. St. Augustine Florida

It was now time to see to the Castillo de San Marcos, the oldest masonry fort in the continental U.S. Built by the Spanish beginning in 1671, the fort was something to be feared by many enemies. In 1702 British naval & land forces attacked St. Augustine and a not-yet-completed Catillo de San Marcos. The British destroyed the city, but were unable to take on the fort and retreated. In 1728 British troops once again decided to march into St. Augustine, but saw the fort and promptly turned around and left. In 1740 the British governor of Georgia also attacked St. Augustine, but could not capture the fort.

The view of the entrance of Castillo de San Marco when standing atop the fort. May 16, 2011. St. Augustine, FL.

Why was the fort so impenetrable? Was it because of the architectural layout or the cannons? Probably this, and due to the building material provided to the Spanish from Anastasia island, the very rock that the St. Augustine lighthouse stood upon many years later: Coquina.

Close-up of a coquina block at the quarry. St. Augustine, FL Anastasia S.P. May 16, 2011

Geology time: So what is this coquina stuff, anyways? Literally “coquina” translates from Spanish to “tiny shellfish”. Aptly named, coquina is a type of limestone composed of shells, clay and sand that have been chemically bonded together. It may look brittle, but trust me when I say the stuff is tuff, I tested a block of it. So, where did it come from?

The coquina quarry (A historic site) in Anastasia S.P. St Augustine, FL May 16, 2011

Luckily my campsite hosts the spot where the Spanish started quarrying the coquina in 1671. I was able to visit it and learn a bit about the geology of the area. In the Pleistocene epoch there were a series of glaciation/melting patterns that allowed shells, clay and sand to accumulate during the high sea levels, and to cement together when it was exposed to rainwater during times of low sea levels. This developed the Anastasia formation, a formation that stretched from the Northern end of Anastasia Island all the way south to Palm Beach, FL (250 miles long) and is about 330 miles wide, most of it stretching into the Atlantic Ocean.

The wall built of shells. The coquina blocks of the Castillo de San Marco.

The coquina is a very strong rock when dry, so to cut it the Spanish settlers would cut the stone while it was wet, and then allow it to dry for up to a year before incorporating it into the Castillo. It was such a useful building product that one third of St. Augustine’s buildings were made of it by 1764. The Spanish were very (lucky, perhaps?) to have such a building material readily available.

It seems that in the case of my observation of shuttle Endeavour, the long-standing life of St. Augustine Lighthouse and the Spanish settler’s find of the coquina to build the Castillo all speak for the case of luck. It must be real, then…Luck has it. Right?

Let’s look back on the reality of the situation. St. Augustine Lighthouse was built in 1874 to replace a Spanish watchtower built in the late 1500’s. The old watch tower tumbled to the sea in a storm in 1880. It stood for 300 years, a span of time yet to be proven by the “New” St. Augustine Lighthouse. The Castillo de San Marcos was built beginning in the 1670s to replace the 9th (yes, you read right, NINTH!) fort since 1565. It seems that all of these events add up to being in the right place at the right time. It may seem like luck, but it is actually due to ingenuity and being able to see the bright side of things no matter what. The Spanish and other settlers of St. Augustine were smart enough to use what was available to them on their very own Anastasia island, buried beneath the sand dunes and soil (called hammocks). We all know I have had my fair share of mishaps- and the fact that I was able to see something as spectacular as the shuttle launch isn’t due to luck: It is due to my dedication to adventure and putting myself in places where things can, and will, happen.

If you are sitting around waiting for your luck to turn around you aren’t going to get much. Luck isn’t a rabbit’s foot on a keychain or eating black eyed peas on New Year’s Day. Luck is constructed out of your own determination and will. Created by you, for you, by continuing to push forward even after you fail again and again. Don’t let the first 9 fallen forts force you to give up. Look around you, use the tools you have been given, and manifest your own destiny.

Some colorful beetles (or something of the like) at the coquina quarry in Anastasia S.P. May 16, 2011
Chocolates from Whetstone Chocolates of St. Augustine. I had a small snack from here- I was saving my calories (and my money) for a fabulous dinner in Savannah tonight. May 16, 2011
Whetstone Chocolates of St. Augustine. Very good stuff. They even have chocolate dipped bananas, a personal fave.
I'm standing in the watch tower of the Castillo de San Marco. May 16, 2011
The view down a canon if you were getting ready to take down an enemy ship at the Castillo de San Marco in st. Augustine
The sanctuary at Castillo de San Marco, the font on the wall and the altar on the left side of the pic. May 16, 2011
While I toured the Castillo de San Marco National Park officials took precautions to preserve artifacts by vacuumn air out of a case to reduce humidity. May 16, 2011
Where the men would sleep at Castillo de San Marco while on duty (They didn't live at the fort)
Some of the lighthouse prisms at St. Augustine Lighthouse (when you get to the top and are looking at the light, look up!)
I'm about to ascend all of those stairs- all 219 of them! May 16, 2011 St. Augustine Lighthouse
I climbed all the way to the top of St. Augustine Lighthouse…again! May 16, 2011
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Roots: Day 7, Tampa & St. Augustine, FL (Anastasia State Park)

The roots of the sea oat plant can be 10 times the size of the plant above the sand. A grass like plant that whips around in the wind at the surface has deep ties into the sand it calls home. The roots are designed to allow the sea oat to survive on the sand dunes, where a large root surface area allows the scarce water to be found. The mosses that are so prevalent in the south, however, have no extensive roots to speak of. They are superficial, and even allow the plants to move from one place to another and survive. All of us have roots, some deeper set than others, that allow us to survive. Today I was headed for St. Augustine, Florida, the oldest city in the U.S. A place that has roots reaching back centuries, making the town what it is today.

The moon lit sea at Anastasia State Park Beach. May 15, 2011

I met a high school friend for breakfast at Datz, a tasty restaurant in Tampa, FL that is fairly popular in the area. The breakfast menu was varied, every menu item having a Datz personal twist. My friend and I both ordered a latte, which came in a soup bowl-sized coffee cup, lending to plenty of time to chat about our lives and catch up. The breakfast was delicious and afterwards my friend showed me their chocolate case: Rows and rows of hand-painted chocolates. I was unable to taste any, but they sure looked beautiful. I imagine they are bought more for the beauty than for the taste, each piece being artistically hand painted.

The hand-painted candies at Datz in Tampa, FL. May 15, 2011
The biggest latte I've ever had at Datz in Tampa, FL. May 15, 2011

 

I have a blast driving my Jeep with the top down. This is near Orlando, on my way from Tampa to St. Augustine. May 15, 2011

The drive from Tampa to St. Augustine was beautiful. I was able to put the top back down on my Jeep after having it up for the night in Tampa (luckily, because a storm rolled through that night) and enjoy the sun and “natural” air conditioning that a highway drive is able to provide. At a gas station I met two other Jeep Wrangler owners. They knew about yesterday’s holiday (National “Go Topless” day for all Jeep owners), which of course made me smile. There is nothing quite like owning a Jeep….it’s like belonging to a special club, where everyone waves to fellow Jeep-owning strangers and we can all talk like we’ve known each other for years. If you are the adventurous type and you don’t own one, you should. You are seriously missing out.

Anastasia State Park Beach. The sand is so white! May 15, 2011.

After a quick stop at a citrus stand to get some local oranges, I arrived in St. Augustine to some familiar sites. First and foremost, the St. Augustine lighthouse (which I will go visit tomorrow, stay tuned for pictures and information on my next update). I checked into my campsite at Anastasia State Park, and when I first drove up to my tent site I knew instantly this would be my new favorite camping site.

My campsite at Anastasia State Park. May 15, 2011

Each site is tucked away in it’s own private alcove, similar to that of Tickfaw State Park a few days earlier, except this is even better: It’s on an island, and you can head the waves crashing on the beach in the distance. The beach is a short walk away, where the sand is white and the ocean sparkling. Every site has electric and water hook ups, which isn’t necessary for a tent, but nice for people like me who have a website to update and need to recharge electronics. The price isn’t terribly high for what it offers, either. Anastasia State Park is the perfect place to stay if you are looking to camp on the coast.

The Santa Maria Restaurant in St Augustine, FL

I decided to have dinner at Santa Maria’s, a unique restaurant I dined at my last trip to St. Augustine in January of 2007. It turns out May is a much better time of year to dine at Santa Maria’s in St. Augustine: You get to feed the fish. The restaurant is located on the end of a pier with a great view of Lion’s Bridge. The tables along the outside of the restaurant, again the windows, are provided with a little hatch where you can drop pieces of bread, provided by the basket full, into the water and watch the various fish come up to enjoy. I guess you can say you are fattening up the fish that you may eat later.

The window you open to drop bread to the fish at Santa Maria Restaurant in St Augustine, FL. May 15, 2011
Name this bird: in St Augustine, FL at the Santa Maria Restaurant. May 15, 2011

The fish aren’t the only ones to enjoy the bread. Various birds, including pigeons, crows and another colorful little bird I do not know the species (readers, identify below! J ). Kids really enjoy this activity (and the kid inside me), and I had the pleasure of meeting a 1st grade girl who enjoyed every minute of it. She and her family were visiting from Pennsylvania and we had a wonderful conversation over dinner. Another great thing about being on the road: you meet a lot of friendly people.

The little girl feeding the pigeons at Santa Maria Restaurant in St Augustine, FL. May 15, 2011

After dinner I headed back to Anastasia State Park so that I could sit on the beach and take some night pictures. The moon was nearing full this night and it lit up the beach and the waves. I was able to enjoy a peaceful time alone on the beach, watching the waves crash and although the sky was mostly clear the lightening illuminate the horizon in little bursts-a storm nearly 200 miles away. I didn’t even need a flashlight, though I guess when you are a caver nothing is dark in comparison. The stars, moon and city lights are more than enough illumination in the night against the contrast of the white sands of the St. Augustine coast.

The coast of St. Augustine is held together by the roots of the sea oat, a 6” plant having roots up to 5’ long. Whlie we all have roots of different depths, we do all have roots. They don’t only keep us grounded, providing for us- They are an integral part of our society as a whole. Everyone plays a role in this world, some of us are nomads like the spanish moss that can easily be transplanted, and some of us have roots reaching deep into the sands of our native homes. Either way, the nutrients we have gathered from each place we live sustain us for a lifetime- each place becomes a part of us. It’s why I believe so strongly in traveling for education. A traveler who truly takes the initiative to learn about the geology, environment and culture of each place they visit is adding a little bit to themselves each time. I think too many people consider traveling a vacation by traditional terms. A true traveler isn’t meant to get away and do nothing- they enrich their lives, and thus everyone around them, by absorbing the knowledge of other places- and sharing.

These flowers decorate St. Augustine everywhere. A bee is doihg it's job. May 15, 2011
I'm enjoying the sun at Anastasia State Park in FL. May 15, 2011.
Lion's Bridge in St Augustine, drawn up every half hour to let ships through.
A flower along the walk in St. Augustine, FL. May 15, 2011
St. Augustine Lighthouse sits just beyond the ships in the harbor. May 15, 2011
The moon rising at Anastasia State Park Beach at Duck. May 15, 2011
Sunset at Anastasia State Park May 15, 2011
My little camping buddy at Anastasia State Park, May 15 2011
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Day 6: Gulf State Park & Tampa-area, Florida

Day 6: Gulf State Park and Tampa-area, Florida

Although I tried to schedule most of my trip not have a full day’s worth of driving, there are a few parts where I couldn’t avoid this. Today is one of those days, as I had a 9 hour drive from Gulf State Park to a family friend’s house just North of Tampa. Although the drive was long, it is important to remember that it is less about the destination and more about the journey. This trip, all 14,000 miles of has no singular destination. It is a journey. An adventure that doesn’t end when I arrive at a place I call home. It will enlighten, educate, culture and inspire me for the rest of my life.

May 14, 2011 at Gulf State Park Campgrounds, AL- The dock at the lake

 

I took one last look over the lake at the Gulf State Park campgrounds before I left for the day. I was soon to find out there is much more to Gulf State Park than what I saw at the campgrounds. Beaches line the highway as you start heading east towards Florida. They are your beautiful sand-dune trimmed beaches with white sand and wood picket and wire fences to keep troublesome tourists from trampling the dunes and the sea oats. It was beautifully sunny, so I had taken the top on my Jeep down again after faring the rains of Louisiana. I was certainly enjoying the sunny rays of the sunshine state when I crossed state lines.

One of the several Gulf State Park beachers. May 14, 2011
There's something beautiful about the weather-worn sea fences.... Gulf State Park Beach May 14, 2011

Driving along I-10 there were several rainstorms I passes through, including one thunderstorm. Something amazing takes place when you are driving on the interstate going 70 mph: Most of the rain just sweeps right over you. I had to use a towel to wipe off the inside of the windshield a few times, but I was having the time of my life- both because of how refreshing it felt to smell the rain and experience the storm without getting soaked, and observing all the strange looks I got from other drivers along I-10.

The abundant spanish moss that covers trees in the South. (In this case, Florida near Tampa)
Orange trees in Florida, near Tampa

As I headed south along I-75, and then along a county road, I started seeing more of the stereotypical Florida: Large trees draped with Spanish moss and orange trees both in groves and randomly dotting the side of the highway. I met up with family friends, who treated me to a dinner at Ruby Tuesday, and then we chatted around the TV about all sorts of things. It turns out one of them makes some spectacular soap, homemade of goats milk. If you are looking for some great organic soaps, visit www.simplycaprine.com. They also make quite a few other products, all organic and made by hand.

One of the many organic products offered by simplycaprine, out of Florida

Florida is a very large state, with a transition that you can experience if driving from the northern part to the southern tip. It starts as a stereotypical “deep south” climate, as I just described, to a palm-tree covered tropical environment surrounded by the bright blue Caribbean. I may have only been able to experience the driving of Florida today (and the hospitality of local friends) but tomorrow I get to drive across the state to its eastern coast, to stay in a place I absolutely adore: St. Augustine.

Me, at the dock at the lake of Gulf State Park Campgrounds, AL. May 14, 2011

 

 

The view of the beach dunes on the drive from Gulf State Park to Florida. May 14, 2011

 

The boardwalk to one of the several Gulf State Park beaches.
Watching the waves crash is so soothing. A Gulf State Park Beach (Alabama), May 14, 2011
My Jeep, "29", enjoying the drive through Florida.
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Weathering the Storm-Day 5: New Orleans and Gulf State Park, Alabama

Weathering the storm. It’s a difficult decision to make in life, whether to wait something out or to leave and start all over. You have to make a decision based on the unknowns. It may be the most taxing approach: To form a new ball of clay is certainly easier than molding one that has already been. It has been proven to me time and again that although this is the most difficult path it is the most rewarding. It shows your loyalty and your honest trust that everything will work out. Weathering the storm doens’t just give you a sunny day- it gives you rainbows.

New Orleans is a city that knows well what weathering the storm can offer. The city is looking much better than it did when I came to visit in January of 2007. The city is thriving, and it was thanks to a good amount of work and dedication of the people who call NOLA their home. My grandfather was originally from New Orleans area, and he went to visit quite often. One of the treats my family enjoys are beignets served at the Cafe du Monde. I can’t go to NOLA without stopping by the cafe and enjoying an order (or two, in the case of today).

Beignets at Cafe du Monde in the French Quarter. New Orleans, LA May 13, 2011

I’m not the only one to think so, either. Cafe du Monde never closes, and yet they are always jam packed full of patrons ready to devour the tasty morsels covered in powdered sugar. They are incredibly affordable,  less than a dollar a beignet, coming in orders of 3. For the best effect you should enjoy a Cafe Au Lait with your beignets, a tradition stretching back to 1862. It is a staple of the French Quarter, and something that anyone visiting New Orleans must try. Cafe du Monde’s website: http://www.cafedumonde.com/history.html

Always a full house at Cafe du Monde. May 13, 2011

I wandered the streets of New Orleans for a couple hours, taking in the surrounding. You can’t walk too far without hearing a live jazz band playing somewhere or another. Oleander fills the flower beds, and other short semi-tropical trees shade the walkways. The French Market is full of vendors selling various drinks, foods, goods and produce. It’s well worth it just venturing around the French Quarter finding various shops, and people.

The walkway behind Cafe du Monde in the French Quarter. May 13, 2011
One of the many distinctly New Orleans buildings in the French Quarter. May 13, 2011

My next stop was to be along the coast, down to Alabama’s gulf coast. I was going to camp very near the coast, at the Gulf State Park. It wasn’t too far a drive, and the drive is pretty nice. You get to drive underneath the water in a tunnel, and over a lot of waterways on bridges.

The park itself is very well cared for, and the price tag shows. It cost me a whole $36 to camp in a tent for one night. Granted it is a very well cared for park and it is along the coast, but it is twice the price that I have paid for at other campsites. I believe that the campsite is better geared towards RVs than towards camp tenting. If you have an RV this is an excellent place to stay. For a tent it may be a bit pricey.

I did get a nice spot, though. A short walk to the water of inner lake, that connects to the coast. A storm was rolling in when I pulled up to take pictures. I was able to watch as the sky turned dark, lightening filling the sky and thunder echoing across the coast. The water turned from calm to choppy, and dark. I had to take cover under a nearby shelter to keep from getting my camera wet and I considered making a run for my tent, but what followed shortly after was well worth the wait. A rainbow came out on the other side of the lake’s shore.

Gulf State Park, Alabama. The storm rolling in.
Gulf State Park, Alabama. Taking cover from the storm. May 13, 2011
The rainbow after the storm at Gulf State Park, Alabama. May 13, 2011

I was by myself, but I jumped up and exclaimed”Rainbow” out loud. Lightening was still filing the sky behind and to the sides of the rainbow, but the sight was absolutely beautiful and breathtaking. This is what I always wait for after the storm: the rainbow. A rainbow has always been a symbol of coming out of a difficult time even better than before. It’s why I weather the storm, so that I can see the beauty that is born out of it.

For every storm we have to decide whether we will seek sunnier skies, or wait for the rainbow to come out. For me, I will always weather the storm for what I believe in. You never know what miraculous wonder you will see with the next storm. So here’s to anticipating the storm- and loving every minute of it. Another adventure starts tomorrow….until then…

-Nicole

The distinct French Quarter street signs everyone knows and loves. May 13, 2011
The French Market of NOLA. May 13, 2011
The sign for the French Market Place.
My own recipe: Cajun Hobo Dinner. This is how you make it when you aren't allowed to have ground fires. May 13, 2011 Gulf State Park Alabama
This beer was created after the hurricanes swept through Louisiana, and it's proceeds helped rebuild NOLA.
The view from my campsite. Dusk at Gulf State Park Alabama. May 13, 2011.
I was playing with my manual settings on my camera and got this cook shot of the moon. Gulf State Park, Alabama. May 13, 2011
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Day 4, Part II: Tickfaw State Park

There are many reasons I chose to camp instead of staying in a hotel on my travels. First and foremost, camping is FAR cheaper than any hotel room. Campsites may be a bargain way to travel, but they also offer much more in experiences than any hotel room could ever offer. Not only is each campsite unique, but every night at a campsite is unique since everything revolves around nature. One night you may see all of the stars and a bright moon, and the net night may be cloudy but you were able to take a long leisurely walk on a boardwalk through the swamp, seeing little spotted rabbits, bright yellow birds, dueling lizards and more. Camping is more finding a place to sleep-it’s another facet to your journey. Some camps are better than others, just as some hotels are dirtier than others (but at least with camping you get to sleep in your own bag- you KNOW that’s sanitary). Tickfaw State Park turned out to be a hidden jewel in the camping world, and I am more than happy to share what I have found.

The Swamp along a trail at Tickfaw State Park

Tickfaw State Park lies on the northern end of Maurepaus lake in Louisianna, a 30 minute drive to the French Quarter if you are planning on visiting the area. They have cabins, group camping sites, RV sites and “unimproved” tent sites. I obviously chose the later and took the unimproved tent site, which charges $12/night plus a $6 processing fee. The camping sites are each nestled in a private alcoved of trees, at least giving you the illusion that you are camping alone.

The suspension bridge over the Tickfaw river on one of the many trails at Tickfaw S.P. May 12, 2011

This alone would have made me a “happy camper” ( Where DOES that phrase originate and why do we use it for everything?) but it turns out the camp has a lot more. It has miles of hiking trails, both along perfectly maintained boardwalks and (if you venture deeper) along wild trails through the wilderness. It has an informative nature center, a water park for the kids (or the kid inside you), a regular park, numerous picnick pavilions, a view of it’s namesake river, the Tickfaw river, from a walking suspension bridge, clean showers and bathrooms, and more!

Tickfaw State Park May 12, 2011. One of the trails.

I found many things that aren’t even listed on the park’s map, such as the “Mother tree” nestled only a few yards off the road alond a dirt path. I saw lots of wildlife like brightly colored birds, multiple types of rabbits, some type of lizards, colorful grasshoppers, lots of blue and green dragonflies, and more. I even caught these two reptiles doing….well…I’m not sure what they are doing, you look at the series and tell me!

Two reptiles at Tickfaw. I don't know the species and genus, if you do please comment and let me know! May 12, 2011
One of them changed colors. Reptiles at Tickfaw S.P. May 12, 2011
Close up of the two fighting. May 12, 2011

I felt like I was in my own personal haven for most of the night, not seeing many other campers at all. Perhaps the flood waters had scared them all away? Or maybe I really had found a wonderful oasis that is hidden from everyone. Either way, it was just the way I like camping to be. If you ever plan on visiting this area of Louisiana I recommend this place as your campsite of choice. You won’t regret it.

Tomorrow I will be heading further east, after enjoyig a beautiful morning in the French Quarter, and I will be staying at another campsite. Will the next one match up to Tickfaw State Park? Until then…

-Nicole

The trailhead of Hurricane Cut Thru at Tickfaw S.P. May 12, 2011
The waterpark at Tickfaw S.P. May 12, 2011
A closeup of the dumping buckets at the waterpark of Tickfaw S.P. May 12, 2011
Apparently these guys are just all over Louisiana this time of year. Tickfaw State Park, May 12, 2011
One of the many small gems you can find throughout Tickfaw state park, not even listed on the map. May 12, 2011
The blackberries are already ripening down in Louisiana. May 12, 2011 Tickfaw State Park.
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Day 4, Part I: Oak Alley Plantation

The wonders of the world are often those that awe us in time. Those magnificent wonders that have been standing more years any of us can quite comprehend. It isn’t unusual to find geologic wonders of the world. The mere idea that you can gaze upon something so spectacular that was created over a span of millions of years is both difficult to wrap the mind around, and overwhelmingly joyful.

Not suprisingly, it isn’t as often to find something created by man that can achieve the same effect. Those objects that man create usually defy nature so blatantly that their time on this land, without constant care for generations, is usually short. If we see things such as this today they have been “restored” back to their original shape. They take constant care and maintenance to enjoy such a man made splendor. It is because of this that very few creations that weren’t a product of natural processes remain in their original state. Today I journeyed from Starkville, MS to Vacherie, LA so that I could personally see such a man-made wonder: Oak Alley plantation.

Looking back at the house from the end of Oak Alley. May 12, 2011. Vacherie, LA

While I absolutely love antebellum architecture, I am actually speaking of the trees when I refer to something that has held the test of time without any remodeling. These grand oak trees were planted by an unknown person in the early 1700s, and they have stood the test of time and guided the very splendor of the plantation itself. It turns out there is a way for man’s creation to stand the test of time without having to undergo restorative efforts after periods of neglect: use nature as the building material, canvass and structure all in one. Add nothing unnatural, simply guide what happens naturally.

The drive to Oak Alley wasn’t too eventful. I had been worried that I may have to change my Louisiana plans due to the flood waters that seemed to be chasing me down from Missouri. (I saw them on Day 2 in Arkansas and Memphis, TN) Luckily, I once again have just squeaked by as they don’t plan to open the flood gates until I will be out of the area. I took note of the Mississippi river as I passed over the bridge and had to circle back to drive along the closest road to the river on the Southern side, a road that rests many feet below the current level of the river on the other side of the levy. I saw many people stopping to take pictures of the river as it was slugging it’s way to the coast. Oak Alley faces the river, only a couple thousand feet from the levy, a line of stately, 300 year old oak trees leading the way from water to home.

The Mississippi at Oak Alley. See how close it is to the top of the levy? May 12, 2011

My visit to Oak Alley Plantation was lovely. I arrived in time for a late lunch, and went to the restaurant they keep on the property. I had the pleasure of enjoying a Mint Julep on the porch (to which I can now say I have done, and that I may not do again. I didn’t particularly care for the drink but it is something everyone should try once). For lunch I had a cajun seasoned crawfish on top of fried catfish, served with rice and corn. Everything had it’s own Louisiana spice to it, even the ranch dressing atop the small salad that was served before the meal had some cajun seasoning. The tables all had small flower vases with fresh roses in them, something I imagine they must refresh daily.

Mint Juleps at Oak Alley Plantation, May 12, 2011
My meal at Oak Alley Plantation Restaurant: Crawfish atop Catfish with rice and corn

The grounds themselves are as gorgeous as the antebellum house that stands center-attention of the oak trees. Large kettles, once used to boil the sugar cane, are now used as planters where water lillies are in bloom. The giant oak trees are covered in Resurrection moss, giving them their distinctive southern charm. The branches sweep down to the ground, and the roots are massive, erupting from the earth that contains them. Everything about these threes is organic except for one thing: Their perfect alignment into an “alley way” for visitors to traverse across the grounds to the grand home.

The old sugar boiling pots, now used as planters. May 12, 2011. Oak Alley in Vacherie, LA

The tour of the house itself is given by a guide in period-appropriate attire. As is common with many older houses with antique portraits, furniture and draperies, no photography is allowed inside the home to protect them from camera flashes (and I imagine a right to the use of the photos. Although Oak Alley Plantation is now run by a non-profit group, it takes a lot of money to keep something like this up and running. Selling rights to photograph and use their property for events is one of the ways they can fund this enormous task).

The Oak Alley Plantation Home. May 12, 2011

There are numerous outbuildings to visit, such as the garage that houses two Ford Model-As, the cemetary, gardens, a civl war historian booth, and more. It woudln’t be difficult to spend an entire day there, though I would recommend a visit during April or early May. The south gets quite hot and humid during the summer and you won’t be able to enjoy the property to it’s full potential with so many activities being outdoors.

Two Model As at the Oak Alley Plantation Garage

I haven’t looked at how many pictures I took while there, but I know they are up in the triple digits. The place is lovely to visit. It costs $18 to enter, which includes full access to the grounds and a tour of the home itself. If you chose to spend the entire day there, meals are very affordable ranging from $8-$16 for a plate. Drinks are a little more pricey (My Mint Julep, which is 3 parts bourbon and 1 part mint syrup, in a glass of crushed ice with a fresh mint sprig ran $6) but are still well under prices you would expect at any city bar. It’s a great place for good adult fun, I’d probably suggest not bringing your kids until they are old enough to enjoy history..quietly.

If you don’t mind a 45 minute drive, there is a fabulous state park that I decided to stay at following my visit to Oak Alley….In fact, it is so fabulous it is deserving of it’s own entry. Read “Day 4, Part II: Tickfaw State Park” to learn about this gem in the swamplands of Louisiana.

-Nicole

These dragonflies were all over the Oak Alley Plantation. May 12, 2011
Although you can't take pictures within the house, you are encouraged to take pictures from the balcony of the 2nd floor. May 12, 2011
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Day 3: Mississippi State & Camp

Today I was able to visit the campus of one of my choices of application for graduate school: Mississippi State. I am already pretty specific in what I want to do for my graduate research, and that is to conduct research on speleothem development. If you didn’t know already by reading my previous entries, I love to spend time in caves and my particular interest is finding interesting speleothems such as helectites, soda straws, cave pearls, stalactities, stalagmites and more. The intricate process of the dissolution of limestone and deposition of these minerals into an entirely new product has fascinated me for years. I have sought out schools that have programs and research potential in karst so that I can find my niche in the world. I want to make tremendous contribution to the world of cave science, and to inspire future generations to continue the work for many years to come.

Mississippi State Davis Wade Stadium May 11, 2011
The Entrance to Miss State campus. Starkville, MS May 11, 2011

The culture of Mississippi State is very welcoming. Everyone I met was very friendly,  and the campus is wide open with plenty of space between the buildings. I was able to tour the facilities with Dr. Mylroie, and meet many of the professors and doctoral researchers that are contributing to geological sciences today. We had a tasty lunch at City Bagels, and if you are ever in Starkville, MS I recommend you to eat there as well. The food was good and the menu was pretty large and varied.

Miss State's Hilbun hall: Home of Geosciences. May 11, 2011
City Bagel Cafe, Starkville, MS May 11, 2011. Very good food! 🙂

After my visit with Mississippi State I returned to camp to lounge a bit before it was time to cook dinner. The trees were filled with cicadas, their shells litering the stumps and tree trunks. Most find the noice annoying, but for my short stay here I find it somewhat relaxing. Sometimes the best parts of a trip are the downtimes, which is why I try to plan some of it between my busy days as much as possible. It’s the serenity and peace that keeps us all sane when the day closes.

Camp @ Indian Mound Campground, Mississippi May 11, 2011

Well, tomorrow I head off to Louisiana. Who knows what adventure this trek will bring me. I guess you’ll just have to come back later to find out. Until then…

-Nicole

The moon in the sky during the day, Camp in MS May 11, 2011
Cicada Shell, Camp in MS, May 11, 2011
A Cicada sitting in a nearby tree. Camp in MS. May 11, 2011
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A Water World: Day 2, Arkansas to Mississippi

Day 2: Arkansas to Mississippi
Water is the most vital thing to life. Not only do we need it for our very survival, but we find it comforting. Millions of us flock to places of aqueous views, and whether we live there or not we all find it calming. The seas, lakes, rivers, waterfalls and springs dominate our culture. Most of our major cities are built near waterways. Water is the essence of our being.

Petit Jean State Park May 10, 2011

Today my friend took me to a place that exemplifies our fascination with water: Petit Jean State Park in central Arkansas. It is a beautiful place full of hiking trails and history, built by the Civilian Conseration Corps starting in 1933, during the Great Depression. Rich in history, and geology, it’s most stunning (and most visited) attraction is a 90′ waterfall that cascades into Cedar Creek Canyon.

Petit Jean State Park-Cedar Falls. The first view when walking up. May 10, 2011

The walk to Cedar Falls isn’t too long, only 2 miles from trailhead to the falls, but it is pretty vigourous. The first 1/2 mile that descends more than 200 feet, climbing down steps made from local rocks by the C.C.C., isn’t the hard part: It’s climbing back up later. I enjoyed it a lot, as sitting in a vehicle for long drives doesn’t offer a lot of exercise so I love to get what I can.
The geology of the area was unknown to me when I entered the park, but I started making some assumptions. My first clue were the trees, many of them obviously several hundred years old, that had grown on top of the rock rubble.

A tree growing on top of a fallen rock. Petit Jean State Park May 10, 2011

The area suggest to me a collapse of a large karst area several hundred thousand years ago. Now, everyone knows how I LOVE karst, so perhaps I try to see it in everything I visit. So, I decided to look it up when I got to camp where I would have wireless internet. Here is what I found:
It turns out that this area was not karst, but it did undergo a similar process as the sinkholes that take place in the carbonates of Missouri and Kentucky. What happened to these sandstone rocks is that the shale, softer and less resistant than the sandstone, was eroded by the water faster and left little support for the sandstone, causing the rocks to tumble. This area is in a big syncline called the Pontoon syncline. For more info on the geology of the area, go to http://www.geology.arkansas.gov/pdf/Geology%20of%20Petit%20Jean%20State%20Park.pdf

 


I really enjoyed the falls. There is something absolutely serene being in the presence of moving water. You can feel it in the air, and everything seems right with the world. I owe a huge thanks to my friend who took pictures of me, and taught me how to use a lot of the functions on my camera. I am extremely lucky to have a friend who is also interested in photography and we had a great time taking pictures at the falls. She was a gracious host as well and I couldn’t have chosen a better place to start my grand journey! We will have to go camping again soon.
In the afternoon it was time to leave Arkansas and head towards Mississippi. Upon driving EB along I-40 I saw exactly how you can have too much of a good thing. White, Cache, L’Anguille, St. Francis, and Mississippi are all names of rivers, but today they were lakes. At one point the water was so high it was approaching the roadway, and had already risen over the roadway on the WB side. I was lucky enough to squeak by on the EB lanes. They hadn’t closed them, but I imagine if the water isn’t yet receeding they would have had to do so.

Flooding in AR along I-40 5/10/11
The water breached the WB lanes of I-40. 5/10/11
The water, almost level with the roadway, along the EB lanes of I40 in AR. 5/10/11

The Mississippi river took over a large portion of Memphis, reclaiming property that once belonged to the flood plain. Locals had taken over exit ramps as boating ramps, and they lined the new coastline with fishing poles. A few roofs poked out through the water in places.
It is important to remember that many things are vital to our lives, in so many ways, yet there still needs to be moderation. There is a such thing as too much, even of a thing so essential as water. Sometimes we don’t have control over what amount of a good thing we are dealt, but we can decide to use it wisely, and learn from every  moment we get.
The drive through Mississippi was wonderful. I was racing the sun to get to my campsite, the top down on the Jeep, the aromas of pine and honeysuckle breezing through my nose. Mississippi, so far, is a pretty nice looking state. I’ll let you know more about it after I do some more exploring of The Magnolia State tomorrow. Until then-
-Nicole

These flowers were all over Petit Jean State Park when I was there 5/10/11
The stone steps, carved by the CCC, at Petit Jean S.P. 5/10/11
This is me, taking pictures at Petit Jean S.P. in Arkansas (photo courtesy of my friend, Jennifer)

 

Me, taking a pictureof Cedar Falls at Petit Jean S.P. 5/10/11 (Photo courtesy of my friend, Jennifer)
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Day 1: Arkansas

Most of the time when our alarm clock goes off we hit the snooze. It goes off the second time and we either begrudgingly get out of bed, or we hit the snooze again. If you are like me you have to set your alarm clock at least a half hour earlier than you intend to wake up because this process repeats until you can’t fall back asleep without dreaming about your alarm’s incessant call.

The night of a trip is nothing like this. You wake up before your alarm goes off. Only 2 hours until you have to get up. Fall back asleep. The next time your eyes are open, it’s only 1 hour and 45 minutes until your alarm calls. It is one of those rare moments where you anticipate your alarm rather than dread it.

This morning was one of those days.

It was the start of my Grand Adventure tour, to which I call Caves, Waves & Future Paves. Aptly named, as the goals of this 77 day tour is to a) visit potential grad schools b)collect data, photos and other information from a broad spectrum of caves throughout the U.S. for my own research and c) to relax among the worlds wonders (including friends, family, mountains, canyons, geologic marvels and one of my personal favorite: coastlines).

Starting out in Missouri I will be doing two loops: My Eastern loop, which I started today, a short 3 day stop at home, and then my Western loop.(See the map below)

 

My first stop was just South of the Missouri border in Arkansas: Cosmic Caverns. Along the way I also had a plan of selling some of my stone creations, so I have produced a dozen “cave candle holders” and have them with me. (go to www.geojeep.com/stone-creations to see a picture of it) The Cosmic Caverns gift shop purchased two of them, and seemed likely to want to sell more. I couldn’t have been more thrilled.

Cosmic Caverns Berryville, AR May 9, 2011

 

 

The tour of Cosmic Caverns was fantastic. Taking tours on Mondays seems to be beneficial. I was on tour with one couple and the tour guide. The tour guide was very informative and knew a lot about the geology, mineralogy and history of the cave. I was very impressed since I often run into cave tours that know very little about the cave geology. I scribbled an entire page worth of notes in my field book, and noted the size of different items I used as scale so I could reference them later. The tour only costs $14 for general admission, so if any of you are near the area I highly recommend it. There are lots of beautiful formations to take pictures of and the group that works there is very friendly and knowledgeable. If they don’t know the answer they will try to find it for you.

 

Cosmic Caverns Berryville, AR May 9, 2011

 

My next stop was at another cave that was only a 30-40 minute drive from Cosmic: Mystic Caverns. Here I was going to actually tour two caves owned on the property: Mystic Caverns and Crystal Dome.

I was the only one who arrived for the next tour, and while they don’t normally allow a tour to go with just one person for safety reasons, the lady allowed me to go because she knew I was doing some research and data collection. Going on tours alone goes nice and fast, and especially if you are someone like myself who has been in enough caves that they don’t have to repeat the same script they have rehearsed uncountable times. I was able to get photographs of almost everything I wanted, with different items of scale.

Mystic Caverns, me in front of a large bell, May 9, 2011

Mystic Caverns is not a very big cave, but it is pretty well decorated- speleothems are in great numbers as compared to the size of the cave itself, although many of them are no longer depositing.

Crystal Dome. May 9, 2011.

Crystal dome is right next to Mystic, and run by the same private owner, but is not known to connect. While the tour route is pretty short the cave itself is much larger. It has a beautiful dome that is covered in draperies, and one of the biggest pieces of cave bacon I have ever seen. (Although the speleothem density is much more sparse than it’s neighbor, Mystic).

Crystal Dome. A large piece of cave "bacon". May 9, 2011

 

The drive from Mystic Caverns, which is located near Harrison, AR, to Russellville, AR where I was to meet my friend from high school was a beautiful drive. The weather was sunny and warm, so I was able to take the Jeep’s top down and enjoy the air. The view from the top of the mountains was breath taking.

As with any of my trips, I did have an almost crippling mishap. I had put my Jeep top down after touring Mystic Caverns and Crystal Dome and slid my side windows to my soft top under the back of my top, folded down. I was driving south on the curvy, steeply-graded, 7 highway that runs from Jasper, AR to Russellville, AR and I noticed a flash of black in my rear view mirror. One of my side windows had flown out onto the highway into the northbound lane. I pulled over into the nearest driveway, made a u turn and had to stop, mid highway with flashers on, to reclaim my lost window. Without that window, rain would not be a fun weather event. Luckily the time of day I was traveling afforded very little traffic to fight. Close call!

I am now in Russellville at a good friend of mine’s home, enjoying grilled chicken and other good food with her husband and her neighbors. The night is beautiful, and they live right next to a bayou. Tomorrow morning she is going to take me to Petit Jean National Park to see a 90′ tall waterfall, and then I will be treking my way in my Jeep with the top down to Mississippi so I can camp for the night.

It’s funny how we spend life dreading some alarm clocks and anticipating others. This Summer will be a part of my life where every alarm clock will be something I look forward to. I think it will prove to be a great lesson in life. Every day we wake, whether it be to the sun rising and the birds chirping or that incessant buzzing of an alarm, should be cherished. Each alarm allows you to start the journey of a new day.

 

Until my next alarm clock, here’s a couple more pictures of my journey!

-Nicole

Me, near the Buffalo River
The Buffalo National Scenic Riverway Campground, access to the river next to beautiful bluffs. May 9, 2011.
Looking back at my Jeep standing on the beach of the Buffalo River 5/9/11
I pulled over to look at the Boston Mountains along 7 highway fairly often. 5/9/11
Looking back at the Mountains at a lookout, South of Jasper, AR. 5/9/11
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The Grand Adventure: Stats

STATS FOR GRAND ADVENTURE Summer 2011

Days on Road: 74

Miles Traveled:17508

States (and Provinces) Covered: 39 states 1 province (MO,AR,TN,MS, LA, AL, FL, GA, SC, NC, VA, MD, PA, NY, MA, NH, ME, VT, ON, WV, OH, IN, KY, IL, IA, WI, MN, SD, WY, MT, ID, WA, OR, CA, NV, AZ, TX, NM, CO, KS )

Why & Where Did I Go On This Trip?

This is the Grand Adventure tour, of which I call “Caves, Waves & Future Paves”. Aptly named, as the goals of this 75 day tour were to: a) visit potential grad schools b)collect data, photos and other information from a broad spectrum of caves throughout the U.S. for my own research and c) to relax among the worlds wonders (including friends, family, mountains, canyons, geologic marvels, coastlines and, of course, caves). It was a life changing and inspiring journey that I want to share with everyone so that you also feel empowered to travel. I have long believed that the most successful education involves hands-on, in-person experiences, and this is it! Starting out in Missouri I did two loops: My Eastern loop, a short 3 day stop at home, and then my Western loop. (See Map Below)

The Grand Adventure approximate path.